Wheel/Tire/Suspension for improved comfort?

I ordered a 21' TRD Sport without ever having driven one. My previous truck was a TRD Offroad. I liked the look of the Sport, and the extent of my "offroading" is really just driving 2-tracks in pastures while hunting. However, for the rural roads of Montana, I don't think the "sport tuned" suspension is for me. Sure, it corners nice at high speeds on the interstate, but 99% of my driving is around town on awful potholed roads. Definitely want to downsize from the 20" wheels and get more sidewall on the tires. Thoughts on 17" vs 18"? Not too sure what to do for tires. No idea what to do for shocks/struts/springs. Should I keep the sway bars? Hoping some folks might have some ideas. I've searched the forum but I cannot find much. Most people seem to be leveling/lifting as well and I have no desire for that. Any input would be appreciated.

 

I picked up a set of stock steel 18” rims through a private sale. Also found some KO2’s through a private sale. I powder coated the rims satin black.. definitely a softer ride on the 18’s.. still corners fine it’s a truck after all. I can’t speak to the suspension as I won’t be changing mine from stock.. the KO2’s have been fantastic as well. Lots of co workers run them on their trucks so it made buying them easier, also the price I got for brand new was literally a steal. I plan to run them year round with 5K rotations

 

Pick a step and go with that first.

I believe only some 17" wheels will fit. I'd advise you to stay away from e-rated tires if you are concerned about the ride.

 

What would make the most difference to start? Wheels/tires or shocks/struts?

 

I think if you are just driving 2 tracks in a pasture, you stock suspension will be fine. Especially if you keep your stock size tires. Try airing down your tires, you get a lot smoother ride. What part of the state you in?

 

Wheels and tires, IMO. But suspension CAN be cheaper to start, as strange as that sounds. And it's a rabbit hole to fall down for sure. Most 18" wheels will fit without issue; 17's are harder to find that will fit due to caliper clearance issues. There used to be way more 17" tire options, but 18's are plenty popular now and offer almost as many options. As noted above, an E rated tire will ride a little rougher but offer better (my subjective opinion) stability hauling and towing. Stock offset is +60mm and a wider offset (less positive offset) will create a wider lever arm on the suspension which can transfer more road aberrations. I say CAN, not WILL as this can be very subjective. Wider tires can do the same thing.

I'd keep the sway bars. If you are softening up the rest of the system, you may want to keep some cornering stiffness in with the sway bars. As for what shock to run, there are lots of options - which is a good thing. You can get a good, smooth ride for as little as ~$150 per corner with something like Eibach Pro truck, Fox float 2.0, or Bilstein 5100's. Up the budget a bit and you can get Pro Truck 2.0's or Bilstein 6112's that both come with a new softer rate coil spring. After that, the jump is to some serious hardware that comes with some adjustability or tune-ability. Fox 2.5 DSC, for example, can be custom tuned by the likes of @AccuTune Offroad for your desired ride. While I haven't taken that leap yet, I keep mulling it over in my mind. Just trying to swallow the $4k entry pill...

 

As others have stated start with wheels/tires. “Comfort” is a relative/subjective term.

if you’re driving in 2-tracks and pothole covered roads I’d recommend an e-load tire for durability. Yes they will be stiffer and heavier than p-range but definitely stronger.
Look for some “take-off” OEM 18” wheels on here or local facebook/CL/classifieds. LT275/70r18 tire (about a 33”) will give you more sidewall, improve the look of your truck and give you more “comfort” than your current setup. You also won’t need to do any suspension stuff to fit them.

leaving your sway bars will maintain highway / cornering manners that you currently have. Removing them will improve suspension articulation which it doesn’t sound like you need/want.

 

I have a base model 2021 with 18" wheels and P tires @ around 33psi. It actually rides really nice for a HD truck.
I would consider finding someone close by that has 18" wheels you like and that wants your 20" wheels and do a swap. That will only cost some time. I assume you can have a dealer program the TPS. Or, just buy 18" wheels/tires, if you want to hang onto the 20s.
I might try that first before changing out the suspension. If it were me and the roads were rough, I might feel better about having slightly tougher springs and shocks and be willing to deal with the slightly tougher ride. Another cheap and easy try, in addition to 18" wheels, is to lower your seat (assuming it's power on that model?) And get a seat cushion to help soften the ride.
I'd start with smaller wheels and a seat cushion and keep the off road package for the rougher roads. If you're still unhappy, then move to different shocks.

 

Personally, i would start with swapping to 18s too. Many TRD OR wheels for sale online, maybe even get lucky and find some take offs with good tires.

 

You have a HD tundra?

I’m on team 18’s and go from there.

 

Thanks for all the info. I'll start with wheels/tires. There are a lot of options for 18" x 9" wheels. I've seen some Methods I like with +25 and +35 offset. Seems like that is about as close as I'll get to the high offset factory wheels.

 

Well, I consider it HD for a 1/2 ton. At least compared to other 1/2 tons. It's kinda like a 5/8 ton. The other half tons ride like Cadillacs. The Tundra doesn't ride like a Cadillac, but pretty smooth for a truck (that's built and rides like an actual truck)

 

The sport front sway bar is stiffer than a regular. I added it recently. Maybe someone local will wanna trade you

 

GOODYEAR WRANGLER DURATRAC 275/65 R18 116S SL BSW

Does this seem like an appropriate tire? The only thing I really haul is a little ski boat. Usually less than 3 miles, maybe 6 times throughout the summer and a couple of times less than 30 miles. Boat, gas, gear, beer, trailer is all probably under 3,500lb.

 

That's a stock size and will fit but if you're driving on gravel road like I am in this great state, I'd consider E-rated... sidewalks are stronger and can tow more with a slight sacrifice... I'm rocking 275/70 Cooper ST MAXX and have them on everything I own...

 

Sequoia front sway is also a great upgrade for the tundras...

 

Good advice here…stick with 18s and stock tire size…any AT tire will be heavier than the stock Michelins and ride firmer. Heavier tires don’t help either and most folks don’t consider tire weight.

One clarification on side wall: Any tire one size up from stock will have a stiffer side wall and you will feel it. More side wall doesn't always mean the ride is better…E-rated sidewalls are stiff for a 1/2 ton truck. I have AT IIIs and they are D rated and they are stiff…BFGs and others are E-rated and stiffer.

Sway bars just control body roll…they don’t really impact ride comfort. I have TRD sways front and rear and they definitely limit the body roll but don’t make it ride rough.

 

I like mine

If comfort is what you are after, Duratracs aren’t for you. They are a commercial traction tire designed for big heavy trucks driving graveled, rutted roads day in and day out. Comfort was low on the priority list for carcass and tread design. I have limited experience with them but had them on another truck and they were noisy, bumpy, and very “truck like”.

I would look at a mild all terrain or even aggressive highway tread, which is a crossover tire. Hybrid tires like the duratrac, STMaxx, ridge grappler, ride ok, but not what I would consider comfortable. They look awesome but compromise on comfort and quiet for aggressive looks and marginally better traction.

I also agree with looking at 275/70r18 as it gives more tire volume. I am running Cooper AT3 XL’s in LT275/65r18; my previous tires were also Cooper AT3 XLT’s but in LT275/70r18. The larger size was noticeably smoother but cost me about 1 - 1.5 MPG. (As a side note, speaking directly with Cooper, they told me that the XL and XLT carcass and tread are identical, but with different sideway aesthetics. They don’t make the XLT in 275/65r18 or I would have chosen that sidewall).

Any reputable p275/65r18 or p275/70r18 will need the load and trailering needs that you describe so long as the load rating meets or exceeds factory spec (116T if memory serves). For comparison, an e rated tire in this sizes is going to be 123 or 125 - significantly higher which requires a tougher carcass as noted above, BUT also requires higher pressure (33 psi vs 43-45 psi). That higher pressure required is part of what adds to the stiffer ride of an e rated tire.

 

I ran 35x12.50r17 c loaded bfg ko2 at 30psi front and rear. I also had king coilovers. Never had an issue with c loaded tires. Also the kings made the truck ride so much better. I like the off-road capability so much I ended up going with a full LT front end. Gotta save the cash up for the LT rear

 

My Tundra is pretty much a pavement princess. That's where I've had some difficulty finding info on this forum because most people on here use their truck like a truck. I have been getting a lot of useful answers from a lot of you fine folks though and it is super appreciated.

 

I am more pavement princess than not...I'd say 80%...regardless, E rated are for truck stuff...C/D are for pavement princesses...I'd consider one size up tho...it just looks and drives better IMO...

 

I'm thinking of going with MICHELIN LTX A/T 2P. Looking at 275/70R18, almost exclusively E rated, so I think I'll go with 275/65R18. Wondering if anyone has thoughts on these options:

GOODYEAR WRANGLER DURATRAC 275/65 R18 116S SL BSW (This tire 47 lbs)



MICHELIN DEFENDER LTX M/S 275/65 R18 116T SL BSW (This tire 41.3 lbs)



MICHELIN LTX A/T 2P 275/65 R18 114T SL BSW TM (This tire 40.6 lbs)



BRIDGESTONEDUELER HT685275 /65 R18 116T SL BSW CM (This tire is only 40 lbs)



PIRELLI SCORPION VERDE ALL SEASON PLUS II 275/65 R18 116T SL BSW (This tire is 41 lbs)

 

The Michelin defenders are a premo tire; very smooth, quiet, long life, excellent traction in anything but mud/off road. Excellent road manners.

The Michelin LTX At2 is a great tire. Better loose traction, slightly louder but also rides very well. They are factory equipment on TRD off-road models ‘14+ tundras. They make a Toyota-spec version that is available through Toyota dealers. My local dealer has a buy 3 get 1 for $1 deal on tires right now. They have to be OE size, which you are looking at. The tread is a little different, as I believe the compound is as well. I only got 30k out mine (I picked up some new takeoffs from a TRD Pro a while back) but I don’t get great mileage from tires so I did not expect more than that. Some here have reported 50-60k out of that same tire.

I don’t have experience with the other two tires, just the duratracs as I explained above.

 

My truck had the bridgestone dueler tires from the factory. Average tire, very flexy in corners. Not great in dirt or snow.

Defenders are great road tires. The rain grooves are real rock throwers though esp on the rougher-riding e-load version where the tread depth is over a half an inch

 

One of those.

 

Oh, they do. In independent suspension setup they do. Once I converted my mid-size wagon to something undriveable by replacing both sway bars with much stiffer ones.

 

Note that labor for front install runs ~$600, so there is no really cheap way to do it, and it's good to make sure you get what you want on the first shot! You'd probably be happiest with the shocks that are made for street use like the OEM black ones. You should be able to find a set of those near new for ~$0. Your Sport shocks will be worth something.

No one ever does it, but I think the rear springs should be a priority for someone who wants a smooth ride. You should be able to get a custom leaf pack made that would be soft and lower the rear 1.5-2" (leveling you out), and be designed for no load. You could still tow or haul with airbags.

 

Independent suspension is a totally different setup…not apples to apples.

 

Long travel and 37s ='s Cadillac feel lol

 

Since you are in Montana and your offroading is just pastures I would look for a good snow tire. A snow tire will have a tighter tread pattern then most ATs.