What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

How did you prep for the vinyl? Assume you removed any peeling clear coat, feathered and sanded smooth the whole roof … did you prime or lay down a coat of paint from a rattle can? Asking because I want to do this “temporary” fix too but was dissuaded by things I read regarding vinyl over failing paint / clear coat.

 

i had it professionally done by my detailer. they did a level of sanding and prep taking off the failing clear and smoothing things out. i didn't ask too many details. his work is always impeccable and lasts. i'll prob respray the truck in 5-7yrs so this works for now.

 

Threw on a 2014+ TSS bumper, 2" level, 275/70r18's
Before:

It ain't much, but its a 227k mile truck. Bumper is not clean by any means, but I plan to get it Raptor lined. There's a possibility of getting rid of the rear chrome bumper and modifying the quarters to be able to accept a rear bumper from a 2014+!

Also, if anyone has a wrecked 2014+ with h16 fog lights, I need some pigtails to get these fogs working. Toyota wants $65 a piece. Id rather throw used Toyota stuff on rather than new Amazon specials, though I'm not above it!

 

Looks Good! Nice Tundra

 

My roof and hood are pretty bad, but it's not too noticeable given the color of the paint. I had considered having a wrap done to them, but it seems that the sun here is just a bit too much for even that to last more than a couple of years, last I looked into it.

That looks great though!

 

Wai

Looks good! 2014+ front bumper is direct bolt on 2nd Gen?

 

thanks. only a cpl years? maybe for a traditional vinyl 'wrap' but this is 8mil ppf which is more durable than a thin 'wrap'. maybe consult with a diff detailer. i'm in calif and it's currently 100+ outside where my truck bakes in the sun and has for yrs. no concerns from my detailer. products have also evolved if you haven't cheked for awhile, might be worth it to try again if it bugs you like i did. cldnt stand seeing it in such poor condition on mine.

 

So you're saying this new CF looking stuff will stand the test of time? How many years will that last on the roof?
Just curious if you know, but does it hide little things like say rock 'ding' on the front of a hood or somewhere?
Or does the body underneath need to be pristine? What kind of prep is involved?

 

my ppf warranty is 10yrs. i bring it in each year for inspection, etc to maintain the warranty.

as i mentioned, i had it professionally done. contact a reputable detailer in your area would be my suggestion for your questions. good luck.

 

I’m on Vancouver island Canada. I can assure you there are no dealers anywhere near here.

 

maybe then youtube? don't know what to tell you mang other than an 8mil (thicker) ppf is better than traditional vinyl wrap. also i said detailer....not dealer. just to be clear since they are two different professions.

 

Sorry misread. But detailer is even more unlikely here. Thanks.

 

Busy day today:

Oil change
Front and rear differential fluid
Transfer case fluid
Transmission fluid
Grease driveshaft
Rotate tires
Replace serpentine belt
Replace belt tensioner and idler pulley
Clean battery terminal connections
Change air filter

GTG.

 

Scored a scangauge 3 off eBay, ended at 2am. Made a cellphone, sg3 holder.
Now I need to find a smaller housing or someone who can 3d print. Overall it came out nice with dual purpose.

 

Clean looking install. Nice tomahawk also!

 

Installed Lumar IRX on all windows including windshield. Came out to 15% all around and 50% on the windshield! Suspension / wheels / tires next weekend!

 

Go to autozone or Oreillys and get pigtails, we order pigtails from them at the shop literally everyday… no sense in getting oem for that

I can get you part numbers tomorrow if you need

 

What is Lumar IRX? Planning on getting my windows retinted and haven’t looked into what’s what yet

 

It is a brand of tint film, particularly their top of the line heat rejection/ceramic film. They also offer CTX line that is pretty good as well.

I recommend getting ceramic tint at the minimum. You don’t have to go dark either to get the heat rejection benefits of ceramic. Also recommend doing the front windshield!

 

Completed four oil changes on Sunday. Two Tundras and Two Highlanders. It was really hot out but I took my time and both Tundras have the Fumoto valve so life was good. (The second Tundra and Highlander belong to my son and daughter-in-law.)

 

New wheel and tire set up for the 2nd gen over the weekend!

 

Also knocked out my steering wheel last week, made a HUGE difference. Love the feel and look.
Here's a before and after:

 

Link for the material you used please…looks great!


Those 37s?

 

Very, Very Nice!

 

What Fumoto valve do you have? I see the website has six different ones to choose from. After doing my own oil change on the tundra I really miss my 03 Tacoma. Drain plug pointed at the ground, spin on filter was in the wheel well.

 

Love the leather wrap. Does indeed make a big difference in look but also feel.

However, I do worry about the cover(?) in the event your airbag needs to deploy. Yikes

 

I have the

$38 F133N with LC-10 F-Series Large Body Fumoto Valve with Long Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for M12-1.25, Gold

F133N with the long nipple. I attach the drain hose and it runs straight into the pan. I believe the Fumoto website says that the

$37 F103N with LC-10 lever clip FN-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack

F103N will also fit. You can also get the short nipple version or a regular drain valve.

 

Yep! Only thing that I added was 6 nuts from the old bumper in between the frame and bumper supports. This spaced the bumper out about a half inch.

Yeah, I'm not remotely worried about that, I was just saying I would rather have OEM if somebody had some they could cut off a wrecked truck or something.

But yes, definitely shoot those part numbers to me if you get a chance! Thanks bud!

 

In celebration of turning 130k miles, oil and oil/air/cabin filters.
Greased driveshafts.
Rotated wheels.
Other than encroaching rust, this truck is so easy its brainless.

 

Not today, but in the past two weeks, 2013 Tundra TRD Off Road with 91,000 miles (inherited from my son who passed away last year). All the maintenance that should have been done around 60,000 miles.

1. At the Toyota dealership ($1,200 or so):
a. Replaced gear oil in both front and rear transaxles, and the transfer case
b. Replaced the transmission fluid

2. At another shop ($1,700 or so):
a. Brake job. New rotors and pads (ceramic pads), plus brake fluid replacement
b. Flushed and replaced the power steering fluid (arctic grade aviation fluid used)

3. Earlier this year, I had a shop install a topper, ARE brand to match the truck's paint color (Onyx black, I believe). This was more expensive like everything is in Alaska, so the cost was around $5,000.

4. Last week a friend of mine and I replaced the serpentine belt, tensioner assembly, and the idler. The tensioner was still in good shape, but we replaced anyways. The idler had a very small play, so the new idler made the engine quieter. We also replaced the nerf bars at each side of the truck. I also lubricated the drive shafts.

5. Next week my friend and I will be replacing the rear shock absorbers. I decided to buy the OM Bilstein 4600 at the dealer's parts store. Toyota part # 48530-09N40. Paid around $221.00 for the set.

By the way, I saw a YouTuber installing the same shocks, and he mentioned that the lower bolt's torque is 67 foot-pound, and the same for the top. This is wrong, since it should be 66 foot-pound for the lower bolt, and 21 foot-pound for the top nut. Maybe he made a mistake, because after he installed and torqued the top nut, the bushings looked normal (not over-compressed).