What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Good to know about the Harbor freight harness!

 

Yeah I was surprised and the quality was very good. The quality of the HF wire harness was way better than the Amazon Nilight ones ive bought in the past and a bit better than the diode dynamics harness.

 

Dang it, I could have saved myself $25 if I had known that. My dumass cut the wrong end off of wiring harness when I was wiring my ditch lights. Thanks for heads up though.

 

In your neck of the woods I would go with yellow for the fog and snow. JMO

 

Heading up to Wyoming at the end of next week so I figured I would change the oil. Second oil change at 13k, went with Amsoil 0w-20 and an OEM oil filter. Also cleaned the TRD air filter for the first time. I bought a paper filter so I can drive it while the filter dries. It should be a fun drive on old highways with very little traffic.

 

New 3D dual layer decal..





DIY Video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1mOUsbuJFA

Decals Link on Amazon: https://amzn.to/34zouYO

 

Installed my

$160 Rexing V1P 4K Car Dash Cam 2.4" LCD 2160p Front + 1080p Rear Wi-Fi 170° Wide Angle Dual Channel with Rear Cam, G-Sensor, WDR, Loop Recording Mobile App Supercapacitor

Rexing V1P F/R dashcam. I'm still not sure why but was a huge pain trying to read voltages off of the fuses to see what was constant and ACC power. I ended up using the CIG fuse for ACC and replacing the 25A S/ROOF fuse with the 15A supplied (I don't have a sunroof). Also cracked my B pillar trim trying to pry it to get room to run the rear camera wire, oops. Handle is still tight and can't really see the crack... Also I'm really not sure what keeps these headliners up, the edges pry away pretty easily, but seem to pop back easy too. Rear is a little low res but should do the job if the footage is ever needed. The footage shots are photos of my PC monitor so they look kinda meh. I tried to put the camera up higher on the windshield but the black textured sunshade stuff didn't let the suction cup stay. Ran the rear camer wire up the edge of the headliner and followed the door seal.

 

Pulled three round bales today. Total weight with trailer was probably around 6400ish

 

In case anyone was looking for the link.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T6D6GK1/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_imm_F1JB0EXW59GW6BV0JYGZ

 

Good man!

 

Today I finally decided to add a shock sensor to my factory alarm so far are working good and it was pretty easy to install. it just cost me 29.99.

 

link?

 

The “head” of the shifter is thinner than the TRD shifter, but is just about as long from front to back and it has more body girth from top to bottom. It feels good in your hand

“that’s what she said!”

 

So I wasn't able to start my sound upgrade but I was able to resume my sound mat install on 1 of the front doors. So far 4 rolls down of SoundShield to cover 3 doors inside and outer skin. Will keep you guys updated on the final count. O and FYI guys Big Big improvement on the doors when they close and road noise and on a side note if I was to just keep my stock sounds the matting made a big difference with the performance. Bass is better and the vocal as well.

 

How hard was it to get all the sound deadening on the inner part of the door??

 

I had him pose like that for a pic. Gun was unloaded and ammo was in his pocket. He's trained with a revolver to walk with the cylinder open, empty, and pointed downrange.

 

Haha. Well played. Thanks

 

Installed lift, wheels/tires, UCAs all this weekend. Thought I was done but I’m rubbing on the cab mounts. Getting ready to disassemble and go up one more clip setting..

 

Looks good. What’s the offset on those wheels?

 

Thank you!
From what I was told, they are +20. Could be wrong though.

 

Just the sway bar is replaced, all other hardware is reused. Great install video here, post #187

https://www.tundras.com/threads/front-trd-sway-bar.18536/page-7

 

Your search on Amazon for this.
Megatronix UPS Add-On Shock Sensor To Factory OEM Car Alarm Security Systems

1. 
   
   

 

Finished my Readylift 3/2" install this morning. It took me all Friday evening, most of the day Saturday and probably a few hours on Sunday. Today is just torquing a bunch of bolts to spec, so not too bad.

It's a bigger job than I thought. I would've saved time on day 1 had I purchased a floor jack. I went and purchased on Saturday morning.

All in all, I'm extremely glad I did it myself and am very satisfied with the look. I haven't driven it yet. I still need to take it down to get the alignment done and I'm not going to drive it until then.

I'm convinced had I taken it to a shop they would've cut corners. There were a lot of places where I considered it but persevered and did it the right way. Probably the worst part was installing the front differential spacers. The area is extremely tight.

Here are a few pics.

3" front lift. Rear still at stock.



Most of these pictures are with 3" in front and rear still at stock. The one just below this is the finished product - 3" front, 2" back.

This (by far) is my biggest mechanics job to date. Youtube videos convinced me I could do it myself, particularly the 3 part series from DIY Tundra Mods on Youtube. Many thanks to him. I think he's on this forum.


I still think it looks a little high in the front. I'm hoping that possibly the alignment might bring it down a tad.

 

Ceramic coated her today

 

Started my AJT chrome delete. Just need to do the climate knobs, push start, and 4x4 pieces. I ruined my factory shifter plate as I drilled through in 2 areas and had a few close calls with my drill almost knicking the top area of the console.

Next things to complete:
-Rest of the AJT chrome delete
-Install my Ditch Light and Light bar switch in the lower dash
-aFe Cold Air Intake
-Valhala's Shield mid and rear plates
-Coachbuilder +3 shackles

 

CLEAN and looks great De-badged!

 

Today I realized that when my moonroof is slide all the way open the wind deflector electronically raises/lowers depending on the speed of the vehicle. Anything over 45mph is lays flat, and anything below it raises up.

 

@Toe404 The rear doors wasn't hard at all. The front doors was a bit of a bitch because the opening at the lower part is smaller. If you have small hands your good but big hands and forearms is gonna sting a little. But it's worth it man. Big difference on this mat too. I belive it's better than Dynamat really. I've used that stuff on old projects and I have to say by far this brand is 10x better. Just my 2 cents really. Patience is the key too. Don't rush the job and take your time. Each door takes me about 3 hours and that's because I strip it of all the clips and wires plus that glue.

 

Got my Ics fab and Ram iPad mount installed a couple of weeks ago. Might be my favorite mod so far. The bolts were a little tricky getting them in. I kept thinking “am I doing this right” Sure beats propping the iPad behind the wheel and trying to make sure it doesn’t fall down.