What difference in $ should I be looking at?

Want to purchase a 2024 SR5 double cab 4wd in white.

What I have:
2014 SR double cab, 4.6, 4wd. Aftermarket brake controller, leather, back up cam, heated mirrors, 150700 miles, electric windows locks, no fob---just a key, ability to adjust headlight height from inside the cab, A/C, tow hitch, connectors for wires near hitch, tires have a lot of tread, typical rust on rims.
It has a tear on the driver's seat from getting in and out often. It also has two small dings in the bed. Also a small surface rust spot in the bed.

How much for trade in value?

How much off the MSRP for a new SR5?

 

Location plays a huge factor and if you have any reputation with the dealership. Probably looking at ~23k for trade and what like 50k for the new? So they might play ball and let you get it closer to 25k before TTL. Based thing to do is have a local quote before you go to the dealership. Carmax's quote is good for a week.

 

Toyota knows their vehicles retain market desire, but that doesn't make it easy for you to get top dollar when you walk in.

Good luck!

 

What I get for not plugging it in most of what I've looked at has had a value in the 30's but was newer with less miles. Just ballparked where I thought it would fall.

 

1st offer was 8000 for my truck and full retail for their SR5.

A few words were spoken in a respectful manner and then....

He tried to close me by making a 2nd statement "If I could get you 14000 for your truck, would you sign today?"

 

That’s ideal but they will ask you 50 times before you get there, will you be trading in your truck? Or will you be trading in? I mean you can always says I haven’t made up my mind or no, but change your mind, but they are actively workin against that strategy.

 

Have to disagree with this approach.. I’ve always looked at the total out the door price including the trade in. TT&L included the OTD price.

And there is negotiation on financing? Never heard such a thing

 

Agreeing on an OTD price for the vehicle being purchased always comes first. Get it in writing and signed.
Trading a car in is almost always a money loser. The only car you trade in is a problematic bucket. If your current vehicle is a solid car, you sell it for maximum value to you.

 

this method you describe allows the car dealer to move the money around as they see fit and is their number one tool to confuse buyers. You don’t know exactly what the new one cost or what the old one was worth. And yes, you can negotiate on financing! A loan is a product that is offered by many different institutions with different rates and terms for you. Also different kickback incentives for the dealer. They are less inclined to offer the best loan for you if it gives them the least kickback.

 

Would also like to add that if you’re on a tight budget, Id look for a SR trim (double cab, 4x, tow package) MSRP is $43k. They’ll prob give you $13k on your trade…. So I’d shoot for $30k OTD

Find a dealer with the truck on the lot.

 

I’ve always brought my own financing or take the dealers if it’s desirable, but from what I understand the current Toyota rates for Tundras are 7.9

 

Toyota corp financing is only one option. Dealers can also offer bank financing and credit union financing in some cases. Only the scummy used lots will typically offer high interest in house financing.

 

Current deal from Toyota now is at 4.99%

 

But fun, if you find the value for your wallet in all of it.

 

Most dealers will add the lost financing kickback into the final price if you bring your own. I whittle and negotiate heavy in today's market with all the fees and add ons. To win those battles I just take the dealer financing and refi immediately. The Toyota dealer made me sign a commitment to make 3 payments on the SET loan. When the online account was activated in about 10 days, made 3 separate payments on the same day and then refinanced the rest pronto.

 

You have issues. No one is talking about sexually assaulting another. But you do you.

 

To clarify since my original quote since it is being quoted. I deal only with respectable dealerships that treat me as the buyer with respect. I in turn treat the sales person with respect. If their respect for me ends at any point out the door I go. We have a respectful back in force conversation to negotiate a fair price point that allows them to make a living and does not require me to pay inflated or junk fees. For example my Tundra the dealer had a $2k protection plan on the purchase order. I asked what it was and after quick back and forth determined it was the window tint package that we negotiated down to a semi inflated $749. Had 3-4 such back and forth; took 25 minutes a fair deal was struck and both parties walked away good with it

In regard to paying more in the front gets you better service in the back that is nuts. A bad service dealer is not unilaterally the cheapest or the most expensive up front. Just a bad service department.