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What could draw current on fuse 13 ?

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by NewTacoGuy, Feb 5, 2019.

  1. Feb 5, 2019 at 3:02 PM
    #1
    NewTacoGuy

    NewTacoGuy [OP] New Member

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    I am trying to find the source of parasitic draw in my 2010 Tundra..
    While it was nearly 60 today, had a little time before the sun went down. Not the 2 hours needed to put the comp to sleep, but figured id check what I could...

    Amp meter read .9 to 1 amp and me thinking, even if not asleep, somethings wrong.

    Found a drop of .3 when pulling,
    13 AM2 7.5 Starting system

    Besides a bad starter, is there anything else in that circuit that could cause the drop ?
    Before I plunk down green for a new starter, is that normal when the computer is awake ?

    Kinda off course, how the heck does anyone who needs reading glasses pull the darn fuses near the front of the dashboard (above the E-Brake) ??? I was able to pull the 1st 3/4s but couldn't finish.. I tried working with a Mirror, but that left me feeling even more like an imbecile. Do I enlist someone with younger eyes or is there a trick ?
     
  2. Feb 5, 2019 at 3:59 PM
    #2
    bfd300

    bfd300 New Member

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    Where are you putting the meter?
     
  3. Feb 5, 2019 at 4:02 PM
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    NewTacoGuy

    NewTacoGuy [OP] New Member

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    In series across the battery terminal, only way I know how to read total amperage ;-)
     
  4. Feb 5, 2019 at 4:52 PM
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    bfd300

    bfd300 New Member

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    Which terminal?
     
  5. Feb 5, 2019 at 5:03 PM
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    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    TRD Pro suspension, +2 Coachbuilder shackles, 2015 TRD Pro headlights, 20% ceramic tinted windows, clear ceramic tinted front windshield, aFe drop in pro s dry air filter, TRD airflow accelerator, TRD oil fill cap, TRD 18 psi radiator cap, BDX Bullydog tuner, Weathertech floor mats front and rear, rear seat fold down mod, DNA hard trifold tonneau cover, Linex with uv protection, TRD rear swaybar, TRD center caps, TRD Pro grille insert with color matching surround and bulge, TRD PRO headlights, aluminum oil filter canister, Real truck tailgate seal, Pop-n-lock tailgate lock actuator, rear diff breather relocate, RCI front skid plate. 275/70 R18 BFG KO2s
    I read recently that the fuel pump does some sort of self check when the truck is off. Check that one.
     
  6. Feb 5, 2019 at 5:11 PM
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    bfd300

    bfd300 New Member

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    I am betting you disconnected the Pos terminal and put the amp meter in between cable and bat, which does work. But do the same thing across the Neg terminal, much more accurate due to electrons leave on neg side.
     
    NewImprovedRon likes this.
  7. Feb 6, 2019 at 12:01 PM
    #7
    NewTacoGuy

    NewTacoGuy [OP] New Member

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    Across the ground side OR negative terminal to ground...

    Side note, may be of some help to you in your future, if those electrons can't get to the other side of the battery, there would be zero potential.

    Unless there is another path, what leaves the negative terminal has no choice but to go into the positive terminal

    Years and years ago folks thought the hole missing in the atoms electron orbits was the positive flow.
    .. another explanation taught was fill a straw up with bearings close to the same diameter as the straw. If the straw is filled, a bearing is stuck where it sits. The only way for it to move is if an opening is created next to it. That "opening" moves the opposite way of the bearing and can be considered the positive side of a post...

    Anyways, not trying to be a know it all, just trying to figure out what else is connecting to the starting circuit...
     
  8. Feb 7, 2019 at 11:24 AM
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    avt007

    avt007 New Member

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    My wiring diagrams show nothing between that fuse and the ignition switch. Could a previous owner have tapped into it somewhere?
     
  9. Feb 7, 2019 at 11:54 AM
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    NewTacoGuy

    NewTacoGuy [OP] New Member

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    Huh.. could be.. im the original owner of the tundra, but have had a remote start and stereo installed.. didn't consider them as i had the issue well before those upgrades.. i guess i will pull it and see what isnt working to know for sure.. but thank you for the response.

    So, starting system is the ignition switch and i would imagine a relay ?
     
  10. Feb 7, 2019 at 12:08 PM
    #10
    avt007

    avt007 New Member

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  11. Feb 7, 2019 at 12:08 PM
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    avt007

    avt007 New Member

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  12. Feb 7, 2019 at 12:14 PM
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    avt007

    avt007 New Member

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    From these drawings and another set I have, there should be zero draw unless there's an issue with the ignition switch, a chafed wire, or someone tapped into it before the ignition switch. Parasitic draws are tricky sometimes as modules cycle on an doff. Are you sure you have 0.3 amp from that fuse? Doe it come and go consistently with the fuse in and out?
     
  13. Feb 7, 2019 at 1:23 PM
    #13
    NewTacoGuy

    NewTacoGuy [OP] New Member

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    AVT007,
    Ty! you rock my friend...
    Time is something I have none of, but hope to look at this weekend..
    I will let you know what I find then...
     

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