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Vibration when stopping

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Fieldnstreamer, Aug 26, 2024.

  1. Aug 26, 2024 at 8:06 AM
    #1
    Fieldnstreamer

    Fieldnstreamer [OP] Cold Researcher

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    Sam
    East Tn
    Vehicle:
    2006 DC Limited 4x4 Phantom Gray Pearl, 2000 AC Limited 4x4 (R.I.P.)
    Brute force bumpers/sliders, OME 3" lift, SCS ray 10 wheels, ARB onboard air compressor, GX460 big brake upgrade, JBA UCA's, siberian Bushings, RCV high clearance axles, 333 Billet steering rack clamp, TMR customs 10" front limit straps, 1" diff drop, agility customs dual battery setup/battery isolater with heavy duty wiring/ grounding cable upgrade, F-er battery tray, HFW spindle gussets, remote oil catch can,
    I have a 2006 DC 4x4 and I have upgraded gx460 calipers with drilled and slotted rotors and I have jba upper control arms and all that is within the last 15,000 miles or so. Lately I've been hearing a popping sound when I go over a dip or a hump so I'm assuming my lower ball joints are needing replaced so I have new OEM lbjs and Siberian bushings that I need to put in ASAP but when I'm stopping the whole truck vibrates and pulses decently bad and I went to have my rotors machined thinking they had gotten warped on a recent Colorado trip in the mountains and at the bottom of the mountain I had to cross a creek and I thought it may have worked them when I crossed the creek but I just took them to a machine shop and they said they were still perfectly Square. What else would cause vibration when I apply my brakes? The Machine Shop suggested me checking out my upper ball joints but those are fairly new when I put the jba UCAs on. Could lbj's or LCA bushings cause a vibration when stopping? I don't have too big of tires. 285 70 17 Falken mt01. A buddy of mine said it could be wheel bearings but he said that should vibrate all the time and not just when I'm stopping. My steering wheel shakes pretty good whenever I'm under a stopping load. If I just lightly press the pedal then I can feel it pulsing as if the rotors are bent. My inner boots on my CV axles need replaced anyways so I may just tear everything out but I would like to know what a possible corporate would be so I would even know what to look for as I'm taking stuff apart to see if it's bad or not.
     
  2. Aug 26, 2024 at 10:09 AM
    #2
    FishNinja

    FishNinja HIDE YOUR DAUGHTERS

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    Does this only happen towards the end of braking? Like the last couple of feet? You can make it go away almost by letting off the brake?

    I had this issue as well and I chalked it up to my pads not properly bedding in OORRRR I had some excess grease get on the rotor itself causing friction.

    I went to town with some brake cleaner and after a few days of driving the sound has all but disappeared.

    I'm not 100% sure if this is the same issue you're dealing with but I have the same set up as you. Drilled slotted from PowerStop and their tow/truck pads
     
    Fieldnstreamer[OP] likes this.
  3. Aug 26, 2024 at 10:58 AM
    #3
    Fieldnstreamer

    Fieldnstreamer [OP] Cold Researcher

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    East Tn
    Vehicle:
    2006 DC Limited 4x4 Phantom Gray Pearl, 2000 AC Limited 4x4 (R.I.P.)
    Brute force bumpers/sliders, OME 3" lift, SCS ray 10 wheels, ARB onboard air compressor, GX460 big brake upgrade, JBA UCA's, siberian Bushings, RCV high clearance axles, 333 Billet steering rack clamp, TMR customs 10" front limit straps, 1" diff drop, agility customs dual battery setup/battery isolater with heavy duty wiring/ grounding cable upgrade, F-er battery tray, HFW spindle gussets, remote oil catch can,
    It sounds like we have the exact same braking setup but it does it almost the entire time that I'm pressing the pedal but it seems to get worse the slower I get. If I'm going pretty fast and I get on the brakes hard then it doesn't really seem to do it. But it's standard highway speeds at a standard deceleration I can feel it pulsing in the pedal and it Chatters the steering wheel pretty good. It's textbook warpped rotors and the Machine Shop took a gnats hair off the entire surface of my rotor which basically just freshen them up instead of taking any real material off so they look like brand spanking new rotors but they said the rotors were uniform. He said he almost never sees a Toyota rotors warped. He said it's usually some other issue. He wasn't really sure why but he just said something else is wrong if you think your Toyota rotors are warped. He did ask if my pads had a shiny finish to them but I might pick up some brake cleaner and spray the pads down real heavy or something. He said if they had a really shiny finish to them then they would build up heat a lot quicker but it's just really weird that pads could potentially cause this.
     
  4. Aug 26, 2024 at 12:34 PM
    #4
    FishNinja

    FishNinja HIDE YOUR DAUGHTERS

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    It really seems like you have a more extreme situation than what I had as my brakes would only do the shutters, scrapy sound towards the last 20ft or so of braking. I wonder if it's an issue with the pads and rotors not bedding properly even after the break in procedure.

    I'll preface this by saying. I do NOT think it's a good idea to drive with your brakes in their current condition if things feel THAT bad. But again, I'm just reading what you're writing.

    but yea, I legit just cleaned my brakes down like crazy. Took everything apart and I did note one of my pads a tinnnyyy chip out of the face of the pad. Again, I think it's cause they were not bedding properly. Cause after I cleaned, Put a light coat of grease on the pins, and reinstalled. The sound was still there for a week or so? But then went away entirely and has not returned since.
     
  5. Aug 26, 2024 at 4:47 PM
    #5
    jerryallday

    jerryallday New Member

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    6112 lift, Camburg UCA, 17 methods on 33inch Ko2 tires
    When was you last alignment ?
     
  6. Aug 26, 2024 at 5:30 PM
    #6
    Fieldnstreamer

    Fieldnstreamer [OP] Cold Researcher

    Joined:
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    East Tn
    Vehicle:
    2006 DC Limited 4x4 Phantom Gray Pearl, 2000 AC Limited 4x4 (R.I.P.)
    Brute force bumpers/sliders, OME 3" lift, SCS ray 10 wheels, ARB onboard air compressor, GX460 big brake upgrade, JBA UCA's, siberian Bushings, RCV high clearance axles, 333 Billet steering rack clamp, TMR customs 10" front limit straps, 1" diff drop, agility customs dual battery setup/battery isolater with heavy duty wiring/ grounding cable upgrade, F-er battery tray, HFW spindle gussets, remote oil catch can,
    Last September I believe when I had these new tires put on. I'm just going to rebuild the entire front end and hopefully solve it. I'm going to clean the pads off also. I have all new siberian bushings and oem lbjs and I think I'll get a new steering rack while I have I torn down. I need to put new boots on the inner cvs also.
     
  7. Aug 26, 2024 at 11:29 PM
    #7
    Diablo169

    Diablo169 ROKRAPR

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    Santa Cruz
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    2” Lift, Bilstein 5100’s and 885’s second notch, Rear 5100’s Icon 3 Leaf Pack and Firestone Air Bags w/Daystar Cradles. Spider Trax 1.25” Wheel Spacers, 4Runner Pro Wheels, Falken AT3W 285/75r17 (34x11).
    You may have “death wobble” from loose or worn components. Applying the brakes creates resonance and sets it off.

    This is a common Jeep thing.

    How many miles on your inner and outer TRE, and Ball Joints?
     
    Fieldnstreamer[OP] likes this.
  8. Aug 27, 2024 at 6:06 AM
    #8
    Fieldnstreamer

    Fieldnstreamer [OP] Cold Researcher

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2020
    Member:
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    Messages:
    192
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Sam
    East Tn
    Vehicle:
    2006 DC Limited 4x4 Phantom Gray Pearl, 2000 AC Limited 4x4 (R.I.P.)
    Brute force bumpers/sliders, OME 3" lift, SCS ray 10 wheels, ARB onboard air compressor, GX460 big brake upgrade, JBA UCA's, siberian Bushings, RCV high clearance axles, 333 Billet steering rack clamp, TMR customs 10" front limit straps, 1" diff drop, agility customs dual battery setup/battery isolater with heavy duty wiring/ grounding cable upgrade, F-er battery tray, HFW spindle gussets, remote oil catch can,
    Well I bought the truck with 290 but it looked like a new truck. The guy had went way overboard with his maintenance records from the dealership. I'd have to go back through all those records and see if was listed but I changed to the high clearance jba UCAs about 15k ago so those aren't old but the truck has 403k on it now and I e been hearing a popping noise for the last few thousand every now and then. Ive been trying to find time to do my lbjs just decided to go ahead and block the truck up and redo everything. My rack bushings are worn and it's leaking a little so this will make the truck like new again at over 400k. Hopefully that'll fix it.
     
  9. Aug 27, 2024 at 10:41 AM
    #9
    Diablo169

    Diablo169 ROKRAPR

    Joined:
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    665
    Gender:
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    First Name:
    Max
    Santa Cruz
    Vehicle:
    06 Double Cab 360k+
    2” Lift, Bilstein 5100’s and 885’s second notch, Rear 5100’s Icon 3 Leaf Pack and Firestone Air Bags w/Daystar Cradles. Spider Trax 1.25” Wheel Spacers, 4Runner Pro Wheels, Falken AT3W 285/75r17 (34x11).
    Yeah, sounds like you’ve got some wear item to replace. My Steering Rack was roached at 250k. Loose bushings, loose Inner and Outer TRE’s and the Rack was leaking and had lots of play.

    Popping could be Sway Bar links.
     
    jerryallday likes this.

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