Upgrade / repair plan advice

So I saw on another post that someone ( @shifty I think) suggested making a list for the work that you want / need done and I wanted to ask for some feedback. The truck is an 06 SR5 double cab. Right now everything is stock. Having asked myself what it is that I need for what I do, and what my budget is I’ve come up with this plan. It’s also loosely based on what I had running in my previous truck (RIP). I am ideally looking to get 2 inches of lift out of the suspension and run something close to 33’s on 17s. I regularly travel on roads that aren’t paved and need decently high clearance for a half dozen places I go yearly. Have a topper with a camping build out in the back so have some weight in the bed.

A potentially relevant point: I live in Alaska. Shipping and getting parts up here can be expensive and a major PITA.

1: Timing Belt : the ASIN

$183 TKT021 AISIN TKT-021 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - Compatible with Select Lexus GS400, GS430, GX470, LS400, LS430, LX470, SC400, SC430 Toyota 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tundra

TKT021 from Rock Auto has been ordered. Belt on the car has probably 120k miles so it’s overdue. Going to do the radiator at the same time because if I’m going to pull the thing apart, better to do it all at once than have a radiator problem in 15k miles and kick myself for not doing it when I was in there.

2. LBJ’s: ordered from Serra Toyota. Lost in shipping but should be here in the next week.
2.a Suspension upgrades: here’s where I’m sure I’ll be spending the $$. Debating between the Toytec and the Bilstein 6112’s for the front and probably going with the 5160’s for the rear. I drive down the Alcan to the lower 48 and then back up again every year and a couple hundred miles of washboard roads leave me wondering if external reservoirs are worth the investment? Pairing with Freedom UCA’s ( previous experience with uniballs left me wanting to steer clear)
2.b looking at leaf spring options and shipping to AK is ridiculous so maybe add a leaf for now but am open to other ideas.
2.c I’m also installing extended sway bar links, new inner and outer tie rods, and potentially cv axels. If the hubs / wheel bearings are bad I’ll do those too while it’s apart. Budgeted for OEM cam bolts just in case. If I’m doing all of those should I just get LCA’s too?

3. While I have my front end torn to shreds I’m going to replace my brakes. Have some damage from a sticky caliper piston I think on the front passenger side, so looking at the power stop z36 kit up front because there’s a decent rebate right now.

4. Lights : my current headlights suck real bad. They throw a poor pattern and are oxidized as hell. Was thinking of putting in a pair of morimoto mini projectors in new housing like a depo one? I had a set of nilight ditch lights on my last truck and will probably just move them over to this one unless I find a better affordable light. Was looking at novisight and the squadron sports but I see pretty well with these and they’re cheap af.

5. Lockers: my model doesn’t have an lsd (checked the vin and the rear diff for a sticker). The ARB is carried by a shop down the street and easiest option locally. I do some trails up here and in Colorado that definitely require a locker but won’t see any of them until the spring so this isn’t a huge rush.

6. Electrical stuff: interior lights in the climate control panel are burnt out so replacing them. Stock speakers and radio aren’t the greatest but totally livable for now. Will also install a backup cam before my trip to the lower 48 because with the topper it’s super helpful.

7. Rear swing out bumper : would love one for the functionality but not a necessity. I’m looking at a bunch of different options and won’t get this shipped to me or installed until I’m in the lower 48. The cost of shipping one up here is astronomical and I don’t have the space or equipment to weld a diy one now.

I’m totally open to recommendations on any of this, and any feedback is appreciated. Thanks.

 

It really sounds like you know what you're doing and it seems to me like you have a good plan. Here's what information I have to offer:

Headlights: mini projectors in CAPA-certified housings is the way to go. Check THIS THREAD for info and THIS POST and THIS POST for photos of the results. They really work super well, especially for the cost. You can also get mini projectors for the 9006 bulbs in the fog light housings. I don't have these so I can't speak on their quality but I'm sure they help.

Speakers: I did a bunch of audio upgrades on a pretty tight budget and I got super good results for what I spent. I kept the stock radio/amp, and installed a bluetooth adapter that plugs into the back of the radio for super high quality bluetooth streaming. Between that and some fairly inexpensive speakers in the doors, I'm more than happy. No, it doesn't bump like my buddy who has two 10s. But it doesn't start sounding distorted until it's too loud to comfortably listen to. Crutchfield.com will have everything you'll need and all the info you'll need to know. Plus good tech support.

Brakes: I had good luck with the Powerstop pads and rotors, but bad luck with their drums. Both of the new drums I received were wayyyyy out of round, I had to get them turned down in order to run them. Check THIS THREAD when you're doing your brakes. The brake feel and power in our trucks is very heavily reliant on the rear drums being adjusted properly. They don't adjust if you don't use the parking brake regularly, and they won't adjust right if everything isn't in working order.

Otherwise it sounds like you've got a real solid plan. I'll be curious to know your review on either the Toytechs or the 6112/5160s.

 

You should add a new Aisin thermostat & gasket and look into getting a denso radiator cap to your step #1. Should Run you about $35 total on rockauto. When my radiator failed I didn’t do the t-stat ( it was getting stuck open and closed) and it costed me some extra coolant gallons and dealer oem part prices $100+ vs rockauto

 

With 33” i’d definitely install lower ring and pinion gears in the axles…especially with you adding extra weigh with a topper. Of course it makes the most financial sense to do that at the same time the lockers are installed.

 

1) Remember pink long-life coolant

2a) My firsthand experience on an access cab, the the Toytec Aluma 2.0 coilovers I have would drive me fucking mad on any significant washboard road travel. @805Tundra may be able to provide more feedback about what they're like for DC, since it's a different beast altogether. Surely there are some DC owners on here with 6112s on their trucks also. AVOID FREEDOM OFFROAD. Just go with JBA, dude. Seriously.

2b) Did you try ATS? Their shipping was very reasonable for me. This will give you at least 1" - 1½" lift, as will the Wheelers Offroad add-a-leaf. https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com...vy-duty-rear-leaf-spring-both-sides-90-221hd/

2c) Why are you getting new CV axles? Are they doing something weird, showing signs of failure? If not, skip it. If you do replace, go OEM. And inner tie rods? If no significant leak is visible at the inner end of the bellows, wait until you have issues. Proactively install a little AT-205 now to recondition your rack seals, though.

3) If you want to go that route, great, but don't discount going OEM with all new Advics parts. For 2005-2006 V8, pad overhaul kit AD0976. Rotors A6F004U. Calipers, rebuilt-in-USA 13WL from Powerstop (S2172). Nothing wrong with the kit, this is just another option.

...

6) If you don't plan to install aftermarket head unit yet, I'd consider a wireless backup camera. I forget the one everyone is always talking up on here, WOLFBOX, I believe? I know AUTO-VOX makes one too which may be reasonable. JBL also makes great bang vs. buck components for our trucks if you ever decide to overhaul the speakers.

I'd personally reconsider on the 33s, but you do you. 32.5" is and has been plenty for me running up thru the mountains. My 33s were noisy as fuck and super droney on the highway, heavy, lower gas mileage, shredded my inner fender liners at the pinch weld, just all around shit experience. I know this isn't everyone's experience and your DC will be different than my AC, but man, fuck 33s with a bag of rusty nails.

 

Thanks for the info- definitely will be doing CAPA certified housings. Do you happen to have a link to the Bluetooth module you have for your radio?

 

Thanks for all the advice. Been reading this forum nonstop the past few weeks to come up with a plan.

CV replacement is being considered because one side has a torn boot and it looks like there’s a lot of crap in there. Not sure if I just need a new boot or a whole new CV. Inner tie rod because one is leaking like a mofo and rather replace in pairs. Going with the moog ones on those.

Good to know about the toytec. Will probably go with the 6112’s then.

ATS is who I was looking at - shipping isn’t terrible up here- like $200. But if I wait until I’m in the lower 48 next summer shipping is $78 to my brothers and I can use his garage to install.

I think I’m going with the Wolfbox camera when I get around to it. Read some decent reviews online and just kind of waiting to see if they’ll be a decent Black Friday sale.

As far as tires I’m not set on a true 33, but something close would be totally fine. I'm looking at the icon alloy rebound wheels as there’s a place by me that has them on close out so I could get 5 for just under $1k.

 

I'd just reboot. Or replace that one CV with new OEM, then pull the other one, clean out, and reboot, then keep it for a spare for when the other one potentially goes out.

I ended up paying ~$580 for 4 Rocktrix RT111, free ship, no tax. The weight, rigidity, styling, quality is on-par with my Methods, although these are clearly a bit more budget in their construction. They're running $168/ea right now and they have a crapload of styles that fit our trucks.

I found a couple of 5% coupons and a 10% off coupon for them here: https://rocktrix.valuecom.com/

Just tossing it out there. Supposedly they're going to have a Black Friday sale with 20% off coupons. I plan on getting a full size spare, hopefully I can get it for under $150/shipped.

 

This is what I used: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_249BTSTY2/Crux-BTS-TY2-Bluetooth-Interface.html

Pretty sure that it'll work with your factory radio but make sure you put in the year/make/model to confirm.

 

My truck has 285/75- r16's on it, I believe the suspension is stock as well, no lift or anything. I bought it this way so I am unsure of all the work it took, but the tires only rub on the frame, after getting it aligned the driver side rubs on the upper ball joint, I've gotta go back and have them fix that. I have high clearance prerunner style tubed bumpers, and the sheet metal has been cut up to match. I could add pics, but again as I'm not the one who did it, I don't know how much effort was put in.

As @whodatschrome said you might wanna re- gear. Come to think of it I'm not sure if mine has been changed, I assumed it was stock and it works fine, but you'll probably want some numerically higher gears in there at some point. Both front and back have to be geared the same.

 

No complaints from me about the coilovers. I don’t drive down much washboard roads but the few I have it felt great. But I also have more weight up front with the bumper and I am running no sway bar. I prefer fully adjustable coilovers, toytecs were a good budget option.

@shifty` have you installed the 6112s yet?

 

That's the question of 2024

Nope. I'll get to it. Need to get my wheel/tire situation taken care of. Getting my 275s swapped over, hopefully this morning. Then I can shift focus. Still need to finish audio in my truck too.