Two questions

When I get my Tundra, I like to start changing my own oil and filter. Two questions, one of which seems to be discussed frequently yet I like a comparison. The second question has to do with changing oil and filter under warrantee.

1. There seems to be three ways to change oil. One way is leave everything stock. We don’t have to discuss that further. The second is to switch the stock plastic housing to an Aluminum one, with the Motivx filter wrench and add on a Fumoto valve. The third way seems to be a Jowett billet oil cap. Any one system has an advantage over the others. I am leaning toward the Jowett oil cap. But wanted to hear it there are reasons to consider the aluminum housing method.
   
   
2. Question 2: How do you document everything for Toyota in case you need warrantee repair work? I was thinking of scans of the receipts of things purchased like oil and oil filters and then keep and Excel chart of the
   1. date of service
      
      
   2. what I did (change oil, change filter, etc.)
      
      
   3. Mileage

All comments welcome. I have never put on a warrantee claim. So, I am not sure what Toyota would ask for in the way of documentation.

 

Just like brands of oil, I'm not going to get in pi**ing contests over which filter housing is better, which filter wrench is better, and if a fumoto valve should be used or not. My opinions are in the record.

Regards keeping track of data, you can go to Toyota.com>Owners>My Vehicle>Service History. Set up an account, or sign in. Click "+Add a record" and enter your maintenance data. They will allow you to enter routine maintenance data only. If you attempt to enter repairs or modifications, the site will not accept it. At least that was true for me during the warranty period, I haven't checked it since. I suppose they are reserving serious repairs to service shops only, but that's just a guess.

 

Hi John:

As far as the housing, just wanted to see if one had advantages.

I didn't know you could record your service history online...Thank you! You put in your VIN...Seems very easy. I guess you can see Toyota work too.

 

The main advantage to the aluminum housing is that it won’t crack like the stock plastic one in the middle of an oil change leaving you SOL.

 

That's what that section is designed for...to see dealer service and repairs. Regards how it is executed in real life will depend on the diligence of your dealer's Service Manager as to data entered, completeness and detail. Anything under warranty or "ToyotaCare" will be there for sure, probably by corporate decree. My truck has required no dealer service, and I hope and pray it stays that way.

 

Mycarfax app. Let's you upload pictures. Label shops/diy. Set reminders. And free carfax data if there is any on your rig.

Or like someone else said, toyota owners club online. Add services as you do them.

 

That I understand...the aluminum is better (stronger) than plastic. But is there an advantage of the Aluminum one, with the Motivx filter wrench and add on a Fumoto valve vs Jowett billet oil cap. I am referring to easy of removal of the filter, less messy, easier to access with a skid plate. That type of thing....

 

Just for claritys sake, the Fumoto valve replaces the oil pan drain plug.
IMO the Jowett will be the simpler way to go as the drain is built into the cap. The stock plastic or aluminum cap will still require you to use the plastic drain plug that comes with the filter or the MotivX drain tool. The MotivX drain tool is simple and easy to use BUT it's another tool to...1) purchase...and 2) have to clean up.
Either way you go, OE aluminum or Jowett you'll need to purchase the proper socket. MotivX or similar for the OE. 2.5" for the Jowett. Both are going to require the same amount of effort to remove. If you don't have an access door or hole in you skid pan, it's still going to have to come off to change the filter regardless of which way you go.

 

As for cleaning up the MotivX drain tool, I just drop it into a one gallon freezer ziplock bag. This after I cut the plastic tube to the correct length to drain into my 5 gallon oil drain bucket and zip-tie a small diameter dowel to it to keep it straight. Very easy and non-messy.

Dan

 

Same here. I rinse mine with some brake cleaner and keep it in a zip lock bag. I use a small spring clamp to hold the hose in the bucket but your dowel rod idea is great!

 

Some have had issues removing plastic housing, probably as it ages. They can crack or break if having issues removing.

 

From what I've read so far, some of the housings that were broken were on WAY too tight. Also, I have found that it is important to have the tool properly engaged and not tilted at all while trying to loosen (staying aligned axially). I've only done 3 oil/filter changes so far and I'm careful with removing/replacing the filter housing.

Dan