Tundra Questions

Hello Everyone
How are you? I am a shade tree gear head. I joined this group not because I already have a Tundra TRD Pro, but because I am actively looking for a 2014 through 2021 and wanted to get some advice/insights from current owners. I am a V8 Naturally Aspirated motor guy. Here are my first couple of questions.
1) How well have these motors and transmissions held up? I have a 2005 $Runner with 275,000 on the clock and no problems other than an alternator and shocks.
2) I have seen one or two TRD Pros with 285s on them and some with 275s on them. Is the 285 an upsize?
3) What do you think of the A-Trac compared to a rear locker.
That's it for now. Many thanks in advance.

 

1) The 5.7L/6 speed is the most bulletproof drivetrain you can get in a full size truck.

2) The Pro has a 2” lift up front. With it, it can accommodate 285/75R18s (which is what I run) or 295/70R18s no problem. Some people remove the little mud guards on the front of the wheel well. Usually no rubbing with a good alignment but every truck is different.

3) I have never had a problem off roading. I run duratracs aired down with the factory rear leafs. They articulate so well that I can keep both rear wheels on the ground just about 100% of the time. I’ve done muddy trails here in the East and mountain passes like Imogene out West. I wanted to put a locker on this truck first thing, but to be honest I haven’t needed it yet and kinda lost the urgency to install one.

 

Yes the 285/70/18’s are a upsize which I have on mine 21 Pro.

 

2nd gen, here, 271k, 5.7L replaced starter, water pump and radiator. Radiator was replaced because my pump exploded and took the radiator with it. I would say its bulletproof up to this point.

 

I had 298k miles on my 2008 when I traded it in, and it was still running perfectly - I’d have gone longer but I wanted a new one with the same drive train and transmission because they are bullet proof. They don’t get amazing MPG, but maintenance costs Year over year will be a lot less. In the 298k miles, two water pumps and the air induction pumps were my only non-maintenance items (for the AIP, I went with the Howett delete kit when they failed).

 

Buy a truck that hasnt been abused and check for the cam tower leaks. Its better to pay more for a truck that had one owner, or meticulous service records. If all else is equal, get a 2017 model because it still has the trans cooler. Its a easy install on newer models but it would run you about a grand to put one in.