TRD front sway bar concern

Greetings Tundras.com brethren! Today I installed a Bilstein 6112 and 5160 system which is I really like.

To complete the install I had to partly remove the front sway bar. When I removed the bolt on the passenger side (towards the rear of truck) I noticed the bolt was loose and I kinda thought it was backing out. After further inspection the female end, likely a nut that is tack welded inside the frame, where the bolt enters the frame was loose within the frame. It was as though it should have been welded to the truck and the welds were broken/snapped away from the frame. Truck only has 600 miles on it and in speaking with another member here, they had an issue with that bolt in the past as well. I’ve included an image of the entry point of the bolt but probably won’t help much. Also sharing a photo I pulled from the net to see the location I am referring to. I’ve also included some photos of the truck as it sits today. Sure is ppuurrttyy.

What do you think I could do here and am I jeopardizing anything by driving the truck with only 3 of 4 bolts installed right now? Frustrating something so trivial is giving me this issue.

Thank you @inadaz for all the great insight with the Bilstein and wheel components.

Thanks,
George

 

Remove the sway bar. Rides better without anyways

 

The sway bar needs EVERY bolt and set to proper torque.

I'm running the TRD front swayer and haven't had any problems. And I'm not afraid to push it hard in a corner. Are you 1000% sure you had the bolt torqued to the factor specification?

 

This.

 

The front requires a sway bar doesn’t it? Since this a Sport, it has the red version instead of the black. Can someone send me a photo of their truck without a sway bar?

 

A front sway bar limits the articulation of frnt wheel travel offroad.

 

Also just by looking without a micrometer the TRD Red sway bar is bigger than the original one. I am sure someone has some specs on that though. Even my other friend in service saw my new truck and he thought it was a bit bigger. He is now thinking about trading?

 

I’ve got the bilstein 6112’s up front and pulled my sway bar off. Rides fine. Just did a road trip to Utah from Yuma, az and back. No problems, even on twisty mountain roads.

 

What sway bar? Lol

 

I’ll remove the sway bar completely and see how it drives. Thanks guys, hoping Toyota doesn’t give me hassle for removing with my warranty.

 

The TRD sway bar for the front is the same OD just thicker. It has a smaller ID.

 

If you don’t corner hard like a race track driver I suppose not having one would make a difference. Sway bar connects both wheels/tires to help with the sway of the vehicle when cornering. It tightens things up a bit. There was not one on the 2013 TSS (my old truck)

 

I’d like to add one more tip when installing new coil overs. If you plan on keeping your sway bars there is no need to remove the U shaped sway bar bracket and bushings. Just disconnect the sway bar at the end links and rotate it up or down out of the way.

I like to throw this PDF around like it’s free candy. But it does help as it’s got all the torque specs and installation procedure for pro shocks. I’m sure it would work the same with any other coil overs to an extent.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sxjguie9rkx4dti/PTR13-34140inst.pdf?dl=0

 

Agree w/this. I removed mine when I upgraded my suspension and such, and haven't looked back.

 

I havent had mine on since 5k miles, at 45k now. No issues.

 

There are several routes I can take here to remedy this concern.

After looking at the frame, location, and bolt. I took out my retractable harbor freight magnet wand and was able to fish out the nut. In photo 1 you can see the magnet tool and large nut. In photo 2 you can see the nut.

After watching some football and dreaming about taking my truck into Big Bear Mountain for some trail running I believe this is the route I’m going to take.

Let the flaming begin...

I was moving around my fenders and found a second hole in the frame that was much larger. See photo 3 (see hole closest to plastic fender), this is where I fished the nut out from.

In the future if the welds ever come loose from the front most bolts/nuts on either side, this larger hole provides me the access I would need to repair front bolts, but we don’t have that luxury to the rear.

For the solution, using the correct tool, I am going to punch a hole in the frame directly in front rear most bolt of both sides so that I have access to these bolts. If and when this occurs again I won’t have to throw a Hail Mary and hope I can repair the issue. I will then clean the hole well and paint it with Rustoleum black paint to match the frame precisely. Please share your thoughts?

@inadaz

-George

 

Would it be possible to access it if the front bumper was off?

 

I’d leave the sway bar on but that’s just me.

 

It should tighten itself down and be fine with lock tight ... the small tack weld is only to hold nut in place .... put the nut in something sticky to hold it down and run the bolt up and it will tighten right up

 

After exploring the removing the bumper approach it does not look like it. That would be safest if it were an option.

 

I’m with you on this. I’m going to keep it, I paid for it because 90% of my driving is on road. 10% I’m enjoying the trails in my local mountains. Makes most sense to keep.

 

Would you cut a hole as I’m doing to get it in place or do you have other thoughts?

 

Thanks for sharing, your note helped me think this through. For me, the best is to keep it on the truck.

 

Difference between trd sway bars they're solid factory hallow there was a tread on here about the weight difference .

 

I wouldnt cut a hole in the frame, especially in that area of the frame. If you cant live without the front swaybar, install a rivet nut.

 

Rivet Nut would work perfect in this scenario. I've never seen them that large though (bolt dia.)

 

How about a threaded insert, if a rivet nut cant be found in a size that would work.

Threaded Inserts Specifications

Thread-Serts are versatile threaded fasteners that can be used in a variety of applications. Use Thread-Serts in any thickness of metal or rigid material of at least 3/32" (.0937). Eliminate the need for tapping, welding and brazing. Thread-Sert design consists of an upper sleeve and a base which both and internal and external threads. During installation the base is drawn upwards inside the upper sleeve forcing a 360° contact between the sleeve and application material. No special preparation is needed; a drilled or punched hole is all that is required. Because of its unique setting ability, Thread-Serts can be used in almost any thickness of material. Installation is made easy with a variety of tools and kits.

JAY-CEE SALES THREAD SIZE Material Thickness Material Thickness
PART NUMBERS Ý.0937 - .1562 .0937 - infinity
Hole Size Drill Size Hole Size Drill Size
STEEL
RN632STS 6-32 .221 # 2 .234 A
RN832STS 8-32 .250 1/4" .261 G
RN1024STS 10-24 .281 9/32" .290 L
RN1032STS 10-32 .281 9/32" .290 L
RN2520STS 1/4-20 .391 25/64" .391 25/64"
RN51618STS 5/16-18 .500 1/2" .516 33/64"
RN3816STS 3/8-16 .562 9/16" .578 37/64"
ALUMINUM
RN632ATS 6-32 .221 # 2 .234 A
RN832ATS 8-32 .250 1/4" .261 G
RN1024ATS 10-24 .281 9/32" .290 L
RN1032ATS 10-32 .281 9/32" .290 L
RN2520ATS 1/4-20 .391 25/64" .391 25/64"
RN51618ATS 5/16-18 .500 1/2" .516 33/64"
RN3816ATS 3/8-16 .562 9/16" .578 37/64"

 

Here is a measurement of the nut.

 

Looks right. Will stop by a local hard ware store to learn if they stock the recommended option.