TRD Airbox vs. OEM airbox

I'm trying to figure out how to get more air into my 2016 TRD Pro's 5.7L engine because both of my banks are running too rich, which throws the check engine light and disables my traction control.

I think I've decided on one option, but I need some advice from those that have experience with the Toyota TRD airbox before throwing hundreds of dollars in this option without it working and having to return it.

I'm thinking I can save money by just buying the top part of a TRD airbox from a 2012 Tundra, which has a handy air flow restriction gauge on it, and mounting it on the lower half of my stock airbox on my 2016.

For some reason, Toyota list the 2012 and 2016 TRD airbox as different and incompatible for reasons they won't explain, but I'm thinking it could be because the deleted the air flow gauge on it to make more profit on it.

I know the 2012 uses the same air filter as the 2016, so I'm thinking this should work.

Am I wrong?

(Please, don't tell me this and that about other air boxes here.)

 

The lower air box changed from 2007-13 to 2014-21. The 2.5 generation is smaller overall size. The top air lids aren’t interchangeable as a result.

 

Unless you have a tune or power adder, the air box is not causing the rich issue.

 

Thanks for that info.

Have you ever seen anyone physically check them to see if they fit, given that they use the same lower box?

Another option I've got is to buy the top and bottom airbox from 2012 and see of it will bolt right up in my 2016.

 

I agree. That's why I'm looking for a great mechanic/tuner in my area.

I'm just trying to get stuff together for him to try if a software update from Magnuson doesn't fit it.

 

Old one has 4 clips and the newer box only has 2

 

This. An airbox lid isn’t going to fix a rich bank condition. I have trucks with both airbox sizes - the 14+ is smaller than the 07-13 and doesn’t fit.

Magnusson… meaning your truck is supercharged? That’s some relevant info. Check out the General Supercharger thread but a custom tune is a great idea. @JustDSM and @snivilous are both great tuners here on the site. But your issue is likely mechanical and needs to be sorted out before a tune, but maybe not.

Do you have any CEL’s associated with it running rich? A good diagnostic technician and code reader could tell you a lot.

 

Dude you gotta list a LOT more information than drip feeding us what is done to your truck if you want decent help.

If your truck is supercharged with a Magnuson it most likely has oversized injectors. It SHOULD have a dedicated air box from Magnuson which appears factory but can be verified by measuring the MAF area diameter at ~4" for the Magnuson box and ~3.5" for a stock box. The truck SHOULD have a tune from Magnuson or someone else.

If you have a stock air box and a Magnuson tune, then the truck thinks it's flowing a lot more air than it is in reality so that's why it's running rich, it's compensating for what it thinks is the airflow of the big airbox.

The bigger air box and injectors are not strictly required, the truck can be tuned with any air box and injector combination. But the tune that Magnuson provides (if the truck has it) is meant for the green injectors and the 4" air box.

What air box, injectors, and tune do you currently have?

 

This is my 1st supercharger, so I'm not intentionally withholding anything from anyone.

I just don't always think of everything others do and have to get online in short burst because I'm dealing with a lot of personal stuff and am trying to get out of my wheelchair and push thru the pain from permanent damage from being shot 4 times and a couple brain injuries from my military service.

I'm giving it more thought, as you suggested, and I did have to have my Magnuson pulled apart about 2-3 years ago to replace the bearings, which I directly from Magnuson, because I had the rattle of death at about 40k miles. (It runs like a scalded dog without that noise anymore, do I don't think that's the problem.)

Besides that, I made the mistake of using the oiled air filter from K&N that caused my mass air flow sensor to get soaked in oil and malfunction, but I'm back to a dry paper Purolator air filter now. (I guess the MAF could be bad...)

Yes, I think I need to really get it up on a dyno at a good mechanic/custoom tuner.

I've spoken to Neil at 813 Performance and Tuning, and they have a 5.0 rating on Google, so I'll probably take it there as soon as possible.

Here's a like to them for anyone in the Tampa, FL area:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/BF66UX9V4Ypq43Er7

Heck, one 2nd key and fob that I got 3 months later didn't even fit the truck.

So, I used Tom's Key Company to cut me 2 more keys and send me one one fob so I could clear all the keys and fobs before reprogramming everything fresh with their programming kit that they rent.

Beyond that, I can't say what has been done, how it was done, by who or when because the Audi dealership I bought it from in Atlanta simply didn't know or didn't give a darn enough to tell me anything else.