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TRD 18" Forged BBS Wheels + General Grabber A/TX 35s?

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by SOCL, Mar 6, 2022.

  1. Mar 6, 2022 at 12:34 PM
    #1
    SOCL

    SOCL [OP] T-RD Rex

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    I am convinced that with the modifications I have made so far, I can fit 35-inch tires on my Tundra. My concern is that I am interested almost exclusively in General Grabber A/TXs, which carry them in 35x12.5R18LT. My plan was to mate them on to the stock TRD 18" forged BBS alloy wheels.

    My concern is that the tires have a "rim width range" of 8.5"-11" and "measure rim width" of 10" - according to the manufacturer's website. The BBS wheels are themselves 8" in width.

    Does this represent a problem? My gut says this means that the tires will not fit the wheels, and that I either need to get new wheels with the tires or get the next size down for the tires (LT275/70R18) - but please correct me if I am wrong.
     
  2. Mar 6, 2022 at 12:51 PM
    #2
    C.I.

    C.I. Surf, off road, sleep, repeat

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    You'll be fine.
     
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  3. Mar 11, 2022 at 4:36 PM
    #3
    SOCL

    SOCL [OP] T-RD Rex

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    Thank you! Can you give me a little more insight into what the widths mean and where they should fall?
     
  4. Mar 12, 2022 at 8:15 AM
    #4
    frichco228

    frichco228 Valued Member

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    The issue you will have is wheel offset. TRD wheels are +60 offset. Mounting 35s on them will have them contacting the UCA. So you need less positive offset or will need to run 1-1.25 in wheel spacers up front. Too much negative offset will have you rubbing other areas, like the body mount. There are several threads about fitting 35s on this site. Often bumper spacer, BMC and wheels in the +18 to +25 range are needed when fitting 35s with 2-3 inch lift.
     
  5. Mar 12, 2022 at 9:49 AM
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    C.I.

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    By fine I meant the tire wont pop out of the wheel, however, should have looked closer at the wheel specs. As @frichco228 said, those wheels will make 12.5" wide tires rub on the UCA and maybe other parts closer to the frame. Spacers are cheap in comparison, just get quality ones and your truck will be as safe as always.
     
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  6. Mar 17, 2022 at 6:58 PM
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    SOCL

    SOCL [OP] T-RD Rex

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    Thank you! I fear that I still don't fully understand offset because I thought, based on my research, that the TRD wheels would work with the General Grabber A/TX 35s without rubbing. But I am very, very appreciative of your feedback since it has saved me money and problems!

    I had some rubbing at full lock with Grabber A/TX 31s on a Cherokee XJ, which was mostly fine with me. But body chopping is not something I can do, much as I want to. Leaving that aside, would larger/longer UCAs help?
     
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  7. Mar 18, 2022 at 1:03 PM
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    C.I.

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    Glad I can help!.

    Wheel offset can often time be misleading since not every manufacturer uses +/- in their numbers, however, if it doesn't have "+" then it generally means positive offset.
    At 0 offset the wheel mounting surface is at the center of the width of the wheel, a +# means the mounting surface is pushed towards the outside of the wheel, effectively tucking away the tire into the fender, hence the rubbing on wider tires.
    Negative offset does the opposite, it will push the wheel out giving you a wider stance which can rub somewhere else depending on tire diameter and width. Some even claim bearing degradation but I've yet to find proof, the same has been said about spacers.

    Tundras love a +30~18 offset with 35" or larger tires, the result is heavily influenced by the overall suspension setup (aftermarket UCA, shocks, lowers).

    A longer UCA would not work as it is only usable in Long Travel Suspension, this is to match the added length of LCAs (lower control arms). Your truck can have a good life on stock UCA's with the PRO shocks, if you're not looking to change shocks, then only time I'd say replace your UCA's would be because the balljoints or bushings are shot, the aftermarket variants are considerably stronger and more serviceable to the garage mechanic.
     
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  8. Mar 18, 2022 at 2:15 PM
    #8
    PermaFrostTRD

    PermaFrostTRD Tumescent Member

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    If you air down your tires to rock crawl or run on the beach / sand, there’s a risk of losing the bead when you run “out of spec” as you’re planning on doing.

    Bead locks mitigate this for guys that do this for real.
     
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  9. Mar 20, 2022 at 1:25 PM
    #9
    C.I.

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    I wouldn't worry if above 15 PSI, some even go down to 10 and have no issue... though I'd probably be conservative on the pedal just to be safe
     
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  10. Apr 2, 2022 at 5:26 PM
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    SOCL

    SOCL [OP] T-RD Rex

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    Does it make a difference that the TRD Pro I have comes with a 2-inch lift over a stock Tundra? What I mean is, would that make up for some of these issues. I'm afraid I'm still confused.
     
  11. Apr 2, 2022 at 5:42 PM
    #11
    Enjoihavok

    Enjoihavok New Member

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    No it wouldn’t, a 295/70/18 tire on a pro rim puts you at just over 1/4in away from hitting the uca. It’s not so much your lift as the offset of the rim itself the -60 that the bbs pro rims are suck the rim in instead of pushing them out, the sweet spot for a rim with 35s is +25, that eliminates the need of spacers and often time little to no cutting etc, everybody’s truck is slightly different but that’s the norm.
     
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  12. Apr 3, 2022 at 9:24 AM
    #12
    SOCL

    SOCL [OP] T-RD Rex

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    Okay, I think I understand... I think.

    (1) If I want to keep the current BBS Pro wheels and add no additional lift, I need to get 1"-1.25" spacers in front to avoid contact with the UCA.

    --OR--

    (2) If I don't want to change the lift, I need new wheels with +25 offset to avoid contact with the UCA.

    --OR--

    (3) If I want to keep the current BBS Pro wheels and don't want spacers, I can add a 2-inch lift (for example: ReadyLift 2 Inch SST Pro Plus 2) -- but then I'll still need new wheels; right?
     
  13. Apr 3, 2022 at 9:52 AM
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    Enjoihavok

    Enjoihavok New Member

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    1. Is correct, minus you may need front bumper shims, and again every truck is different so if you rub towards the cab you may need a cab mount still.

    2. statement stands for comment 1 still but you wouldn’t need spacers.

    3. adding a lift won’t change how close the tire is to the uca, you still would need to do everything from 1. More then likely.
     
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  14. Apr 3, 2022 at 9:52 AM
    #14
    C.I.

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    You are correct on 1 and 2, 3 is a no go. Lift will only minimize contact with the fender/liner during street operation, you're already at 2" lift, adding +2" to your truck will be bad news in the future and I 100% do not recommend.

    Stacking lifts is a bad idea regardless of the method.
     
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  15. Apr 3, 2022 at 9:57 AM
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    Enjoihavok

    Enjoihavok New Member

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    Are you sold on the idea of 35s just because it’s a solid number people relate a big tire too? A 295/70/18 is about 34.3 or a 285/75/18 is like 34.8. Both would let you keep the bbs rims, and use the standard 2in pro lift, wouldn’t have to worry from there. The 285s being bigger are skinnier so you stay away from the uca, the 285s may require front bumper shims but that’s easier and way cheaper then new rims, but not everyone needs them either sometimes the front mini mud flaps are enough to clear.
     
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  16. Apr 3, 2022 at 9:59 AM
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    Enjoihavok

    Enjoihavok New Member

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    He could go a westcott setup with either the rear block or shackles to get a good 1.5in gain, still doesn’t help the tire/rims but it’ll get his extra lift if he’s wanting it.
     
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  17. Apr 3, 2022 at 10:21 AM
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    C.I.

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    3.5" seems excessive for 35's and would most definitely need a diff drop, I wouldn't trust anything past 2.5" without it. The Westcott isn't nearly as bad as the readyilft since it's only adding preload, if anything it's safe to operate.

    @SOCL, would love to know what your end goal is.
     
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  18. Apr 3, 2022 at 11:03 AM
    #18
    SOCL

    SOCL [OP] T-RD Rex

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    @C.I. @Enjoihavok - yall are awesome. Thank you both so much for your help!

    #1: Regarding 35's: I am not necessarily dead-set on that size, but I am dead-set on the General Grabber A/TX tire, which in the 18" wheel comes in the 285/65/18, 275/70/18, and 35x12.5R18. I am currently running the stock Michelin LTX A/T2 P275/65R18 (circumference of 32.1''). When I swap to the Grabber A/TX, I want to go up in size to gain some ground clearance (if minimal) while avoiding a lift as much as possible. To my understanding, the 275/70 gains the more ground clearance against the 285/65: total circumference of 33.2'' circumference vs. 32.6''; both of which are only overcome by the 35x12.5. Thus the 35's seem the logical choice.

    #2: A little more ground clearance: Last time out, I was usually within the 0.5''-1'' range from striking my skids or rear diff. on the rocks. I want to just go up about that amount to gain a little more margin of error and peace of mind (more skids will come with time, too). I am considering shackles on the leafs to give my booty a little more lift and avoid sagging when loaded down with gear, but that's about as much lift as I would prefer.

    #3: End goal: In general, my philosophy is to keep things as close to stock as possible and minimize the number of mods -- especially mod stacking -- to avoid potential points of failure. The vehicle is intended to be a recovery/chase vehicle for group drive from Argentina to Alaska in 2027/2028.
     
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  19. Apr 3, 2022 at 11:32 AM
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    C.I.

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    Now we're talkin'!

    I can only assume PRO trim sits level, right? If thats the case, you'll be gaining 1.5" of clearance all around on 35's, which is damn good. Im happy with my Grabbers in 33", you'll be too... mean the tire, not the size!

    The issue with lifts is always ride quality, hence a lot of guys go for Adjustable & Rebuildable shocks (King, Fox, Icon, ADS, etc) & new UCA's since they open up a plethora of configurations. Not cheap, but well worth it, PRO shocks are one notch below that option. You can grab some nice coin for the PRO shocks if you end up deciding to improve upon it.

    Tire/wheel setup on the other hand are tricky as you may have noticed, it's all about clearance. Now, keep your spare in mind, you want that 5th 35" tire; it will fit the stock mount location but only if the aftermarket shackles allow it, I believe Coachbuilder's are the only ones giving some issue since they are some thicc gals, be sure to look up for that information before you pull the trigger, otherwise, you're potentially looking at spending lots of cash just to relocate it.

    I wish you the best in your endeavor, and don't forget to post those pics with the new shoes :cheers:
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2022
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  20. Apr 6, 2022 at 5:34 PM
    #20
    SOCL

    SOCL [OP] T-RD Rex

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    Yep, PRO sits level, which is why I want a little more lift on the backend. I have had some really, really great experiences with Grabber 31's on my Cherokee XJ and Grabber 33's on my 3rd-gen Tacoma after that. This will be the third vehicle I rig with the tires, and I am excited for them. They are the best!

    I recently ordered Trail Toy's high-clearance bumper and opted for the spare-tire swing arm for this very reason, haha! Glad that my mind was in the right place after all!

    Oh, I most certainly shall!


    So just to give this the ole wraparoo, to fit the Grabber A/TX 35's on my Tundra, I need either (1) new wheels that already come with the amount of offset I need or (2) spacers of 1-1.25'' for at least the front tires. Does that sound right?
     

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  21. Apr 8, 2022 at 8:58 AM
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    C.I.

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    That about sums it up ;)
     
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  22. Apr 21, 2022 at 7:10 PM
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    SOCL

    SOCL [OP] T-RD Rex

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    In case anyone is following this thread or references it in the future, it is worth noting that where I live - the Commonwealth of Virginia - it is illegal to modify one's vehicle with wheel spacers (as well as lifts over 3 inches!). Basically, in Virginia, nearly anything that is not standard from the manufacturer is not permitted.

    All that means is that ultimately I will need to get new wheels.

    Since I'll need new wheels, I am considering other wheel diameters: 17" and 20". With a 17" wheel, I can get the Grabber A/TX 37x12.5R17, but it looks like the loss in wheel diameter also means a loss in Load Range from E on the 35x12.5R18 and on the 35x12.5R17 to a Load Range of D. In which case, were I to change the wheel diameter size, a 20" wheel seems most logical since with a 20" wheel I can get the Grabber A/TX 37x13.5R20. This will obviously require more offset than the 35x12.5R18 we were discussing above, but I will have to get new wheels anyway, and the 37" tires provide greater ground clearance.

    Any thoughts on swapping for a different diameter wheel, and any thoughts on the 37" vs 35" tire?
     
  23. Apr 21, 2022 at 7:24 PM
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    2bak

    2bak Thanks

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    Those are 5 hole wheels. You’ll need 6.
     
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  24. Apr 21, 2022 at 7:29 PM
    #24
    SOCL

    SOCL [OP] T-RD Rex

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    Oh damn! Are all 17" and 20" wheels 6-hole wheels? I had no idea! Thank you!

    So new 18" wheels it is! lol
     
  25. Apr 21, 2022 at 9:59 PM
    #25
    C.I.

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    Icon and Method make 17" x 5 lug for Tundras. There might be more manufacturers, but honestly can't remember.

    37" will need re-gearing, will to trim, grind, cut, repaint and so on. No if's and but's about it. With your intended use, 37's will make your mpg and low end torque fall considerably, especially if you load the truck. 35's is pushing it on stock gears, there's a noticeable drop of power in the low-rpm's, weight usually makes it more obvious, not terrible, but you will feel it.
     
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