Transmission oil change problem

I kind of fucked up changing the transmission oil. I emptied the oil, dropped the pan, changed the filter. During this process, one of the bolts broke off on the pan, so I had to let it sit around for two days while I tried to extract the bolt and then tap a new hole.

After that was done, I put the new filter on put on a new gasket and then started filling the new oil. My first mistake was that I didn’t measure how much of the old oil came out. My second mistake is that I filled it from the check bolt. I filled it until it started coming out, then closed up the bolt and started driving.

First thing that I noticed was that on a big hill, the transmission started to slip. I only drove it two times before I realize this. I didn’t realize it the first time because I didn’t know what a transmission slipping felt like.

So then I watched this video of a guy doing a transmission change. The way he filled his transmission and checked that it was at the right amount was by filling it from the fill hole. closing it up. bringing the transmission to 104 to 115°. Opening up the check hole and letting any excess fluid drain. Then closing it back up.

I did something similar, but my first problem with this process came when I was filling the fluid through the fill hole. Some of it started coming out of the fill hole. So I figured OK it’s full. But then when I ran it and opened up the check hole, nothing came out. Perhaps I let it get to a too high temperature?

I initially only put about 3 1/2 quarts into it but at this point I have about 6 quarts in it. There’s still nothing coming out of the check hole when it’s a temperature and running.

So I’m trying to figure out what’s going on. Do I just keep adding it until something starts coming out of the check hole? How much of a role does the temperature play in it? If it’s running at a higher temperature, does that mean it will take more because the thermostat opens up?

 

First of all... damn it bruh... I watch a few youtube videos before I take a leap of faith. I wsnt to say 6.5 quarts gets you the dribble you want. I think above the temp you have to shut it off and start over. Per the Toyota instructions. There is a few copies floating around here.

I've dropped the pan as well and there are about 6 quarts there, plus the fluid that leaked over night, probably add a 1/4 of a quart more. So 6 3/4s??

 

Ya, it was stupid. I’m kicking myself over it. That one time that you think you know what you’re doing and don’t need to read instructions…

At five minutes into the video the guy compresses a bolt and puts a pin through it. Do you know does that open or close the thermostat?

 

I think that opens the thermostat.

 

It opens the thermostat like @Retired...finally said.

Theres a 24mm plug on the drivers side of the transmission - that’s the fill plug. Snake some tubing down from the engine bay with a funnel on the end to add a couple of quarts. Sounds like you need to add about 4 more quarts, turn it on and while on the brakes shift through the gears a few times. Open the check plug and observe for a trickle.

It happens… hopefully you didn’t do any real damage. At least you didn’t drain the transmission thinking it was the engine oil, then add 8 more quarts to the engine. That’s happened here before

 

Like stated, pins thermostat so you get the real level of the transmission. Push in firmly with a flathead, since you want the pin to go through tje nut and pin it open.

 

Just did my first drain n fill on my '18 couple days ago. Did alot of research before jumping in and doing it.
OP you 100% didn't need to drop the pan and change out the filter. That ToolDemo guy did a few things wrong in his videos. Just a simple drain n fill would've been good enough. Make sure truck is level. You would drain about 3.5qts and add 4qts. Pin the thermostat, warm to around 110° then pull the check plug till it trickles. Should drain about .5qt.


Left one is what I drained from the check.

Hope everything works out for you OP.

 

Thanks all. I got a temp gun and two more quarts. Hopefully that’s enough to start getting a trickle out of the check hole. Will try today

 

Keep in mind, the temp gun doesn't give you a true reading. It's close but not perfect.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.. but i think the housing temp will lag behind the true fluid temp.

I use a Scangauge 3

 

You can always use Trans Temp Check Mode ... however with the issues you had initially I'd be extremely careful when it's time to jump the pins on OBD port.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2nd-gen-transmission-drain-and-fill-diy-how-to.137487/#post-3826805

 

Good for you trying this. I would never attempt it. Same on my jeep.

 

After reading all the posts on this forum of people breaking bolts while trying to drop the pan I just stick to drain and fills.

 

Yep, had one break on me. That wasn’t even the bad part. The reverse thread extractor breaking in the bolt was much worse. It’s hardened steel, so drilling it out is near impossible. Luckily I had drilled fully through the bold already and there wasn’t a huge amount of the bolt left. So I ended up punching the broken off piece all the way through. That did take 2 hrs though. Then still needed up tapping a new hole. That was the easy part after all the adventures.

 

yes, I know, it’s supposed to be around 5 degrees lower. I ended up adding another 2 quarts. Followed the procedure, opened thermostat, checked temp, opened check bolt, also checked actual fluid temp as it was coming out of the pan. 2 quarts was 1 quart too many. But that’s ok. Got it at the right level now, and everything is functioning as it should. Thankfully. Thank you everyone for all the advice