Tire/wheel fitting - 32x12 on a DC 2WD with least neg offset and lift

I'm after 305s with the least amount of negative offset and lift possible

I've read as many of the tire wheel set up threads as I feel like I can absorb, but this appears to be the closest set up for what I want

he seems to have managed to get this set up with only pinchweld mods and 2-1/2" of lift. Although it's not listed on his profile it appears to be a 2006 double cab like mine. I only have 1" lift at present but I do have the adjustable 5100 Bilsteins if I have to create more lift although I would prefer not to, at this point in time

I can't tell from the pictures if it's 2WD like mine or 4WD, that would appear to be the only other possible difference.

his setup for 305/65/17's 9" wide wheels should come in around 32.61" and 4-1/2" backspacing

My set up I'm looking at would be 305/50/20s also with 9" wide wheels which should come in at 32.01.

so bottom line appears that he has 1-1/2" more lift but with 6/10 of an inch taller tire wheel combo

The wheels, I'm getting are fuel 20x9 with +2 mm offset which I believe will equate more like 5 inch backspacing. EDIT: that setup did not work.

am interpreting all this correctly and that the worst case here is I have to do a little more lift, possibly add spacers to get from 5 inch backspacing to 4 1/2 inch, and possible pinch weld modifications?

Josh at firstgenoffroad thinks it'll be close and I might just have to do some mild modifications including possible spacers. The guy at custom offset thinks there is a good chance it will fit as is. From what I've read I think I will be right up next to the upper control arm which will cause problems without spacers







UPDATE:

305's, 32" tall do fit with the right offset. 20x9, -12 offset which is 4.5 backspacing and some small change (@shifty` was spot on once again there).

I did have to take off the mudflap and I still need to trim the pinch weld, although it will turn it just slightly scrubs. no clearance issues on the inside, frame, bumper and UCA's. no other rubbing or scrubbing at full droop and as far as I could compress them thus far.

I have the bilstein 5100's set at the lowest perch giving me about 1" lift at present. Most likely going to raise it up another inch or .9 inches to the next perch to be on the safe side. Still have more test driving once I get pinch weld done and all four tires and wheels on

my first choice was those black Toyota Trd 18" wheels vaguely similar to these with 60 or 65 series tires. But the offset, width combo with what was available for 18 inch wheels just would not let me fit 305s on there without lifting the truck higher than I liked

It'll look a lot better to me once I black out the chrome on the mirrors (Bulldog adhesion promotor and SEM Trim Black) and take off those chrome running boards

 

I would just add one point to this: The magic number for backspacing is not universally 4.5", so don't fall into that trap.

On a 17x9, 4.5" BS is close to ideal
On a 17x8.5 4.75 BS is close to ideal

For reference, OEM 17" alloys are, from what I can tell, all 17x7.5 with 5.0" BS which is tucked in pretty damn far.

9" wide wheel with with 5" BS is likely to tuck too far in and I suspect it'll rub suspension. You really want to be closer to a -10 offset IMHO, which will put you around 4.61 BS or -12 if available to get you give you 4.53 BS, which is basically the amount of poke showing in your pics above.

For reference only, I'm running 17x8.5 w/0 offset, i.e. 4.75 BS, with 275/70r17 @ 32.2" overall diameter. With 32.2" diameter tire and 4.75" BS and suspension in my signature I was only rubbing on the front flap and trimmed as such to resolve that.

You want your backspace numbers to be lower and closer to 4.5 if you're going with a 9" wide wheel (IMHO) not higher.

 

Oh and you may want to read this thread since I think you guys are aiming for the same wheel/tire combo or near to it: https://www.tundras.com/threads/looking-to-see-if-i-can-fit-305-55-20.119204/

I can't personally get down with the malldozer look, but I appreciate someone that tickles their own fancy.

 

Thanks shifty that helps ease my mind a lot

the other option with my wheels that I chose was -16 mm offset. I thought it better that I have more backspace and find tune with spacers versus overdoing the offset and having to do more mods

 

Check my last reply, you may want to tag Mhagha in his thread and see what his wheel specs are. -16 puts you at 4.37 BS which I think is more favorable to 5.0 BS

And be careful of the hub bore of your wheels. The sizes you're throwing out makes it sound like the wheels aren't necessarily made for a Toyota.

 

Hub bore checked out correctly

I was actually hesitant to come post this in here because I saw four-wheel drivers getting all over street truckers. My truck is 2WD The set up I'm talking about is only slightly lower profile tires and to me is a good compromise to get taller and wider tires. I just don't like skinny tires on a full sized truck. But that's me and I appreciate everyone's help and opinions

But I'm pretty open-minded. I love seeing all of the four-wheel-drive set ups and others. I don't care for the extreme mall crawlers or whatever you wanna call them. That's exactly why I didn't want it lifted extremely just to put big fat, wide tires sticking out over aggressively

 

Let her rip @Mhagha I do appreciate all Help.

I wish I would've happened to run across you before, however, I really like this set up and I'm willing to do what is necessary to make it work

 

sorry if I overlooked it but how much lift do you have?


EDIT: never mind. I only recently found out if on mobile, you have to turn sideways to see the signature which has that information


Second edit: I'm slow and thickheaded, but I actually can't tell how much lift you have from your signature

 

Yup! IIRC, @Mhagha did his truck up using an aggressive strut spacer up front.

I’m only lifted 2, maybe 2.25”, and I think I’m gonna lower the front about 1/4-1/2”. People holler about “I’m gonna go a full three inches or more! Four inches!” I don’t think they realize how much life they’re talking about.

 

His set up is more aggressive than I would like. Of course I'll do what I have to do but the other one I posted is more of the look I'm after

all three are 12 inch wide tires and I believe 9 wide inch wheels

mhaga's are 33.21 tall tire's, 3" lift, appears to be very aggressive setup but dont see any backspacing or offset specs. No wheelwell mods needed

Jberry's are 32.61, 2-1/2 lift with pinchweld trimming, not as aggressive offset/stance and my preference

My new combo will be 32.01, presently with 1" lift from bilstein 5100's

both mhaga and jberry were successful and report no rubbing once they were finished with the set ups listed above

I believe I'm gonna start with a strut spacer to get it up another inch. Then I will play with offset using hub spacers so as to minimize any needed lift with the least aggressive stance possible for no rubbing. Ultimately, I'll probably remove the strut spacers and adjust with the bilsteins once I get it fine tuned.

mhaga sounds like he did a lot of replacement parts on his front end prior to his tire/wheel changes with a lot of your help shifty. Do you recall what the goal was? It looked like a few aftermarket parts

curious about the difference his front end changes would impact on clearance, if any, and also the general difference between 4WD versus 2WD on the same double cab truck. What impact does that have on potential set up? I've not been able to find this info on the forums thus far

if I'm getting up to the 2 to 2 1/2 inch taller set up on the front, what other changes might I need to make other than swaybar links? I believe I read something about the CV boots being adjusted afterwards

looking to the future, wondering about changing rear diff gear ratio with after market LSD if these bigger tires/wheels cause too much loss of torque on the low end. I'll try to search through the forums on this

 

I'm on mobile right now so not as easy to type a lot. I easily type 130wpm+ on standard keyboard, so you may get a shorter or weirder looking shifty answer here.

IIRC, Mhagha knew he needed a refresh up front, and was trying to figure out what was right for him.

For you … I don’t recommend mixing spacers and lifts. There’s a ratio on spacers, I want to say it’s 3:1? i.e. 1-2” spacer gives you 1.5” lift? Maybe it’s 1:2, I forget. I don’t like strut spacers, just like I don’t like lift/drop blocks. Anyway, a couple ppl have shown up here with mixed setups and got way more lift than they bargained for mixing the two, and I remember one guy ended up with what looked like 4.5” lift, bent knuckles, etc.

4WD vs. 2WD, big difference? None, if using spacers. If using traditional aftermarket suspension, you’ll see a 10-30% increase in lift (guesstimating) for a 2WD, because there’s hundreds of pounds less riding on the front suspension without the CV axles, diff, etc. But geometry-wise, there’s not a ton of difference with angles etc. there are some differences between DC and AC/RC, clearly, because some guys on here running 33s and identical suspension, both w/4WD, similar alignments, have totally different tire rub experiences. But I can’t tell you the exact differences. Logic would dictate some angle/dimensional differences, though.

I’m in the 2-2.5” range, and running 32.2” diam tires. It’s a very significant change. It’s taller than I’d personally prefer. I don’t think people really understand how significant of a lift that is. I can’t get into my truck comfortably now without using the OEM steps, if be fucked without those OEM steps, my kids wouldn’t be able to drive in the truck. Not only are you getting lift from the suspension, but lift from the tire. That warning aside, you know you need extended links, I would go w/SuspensionMaxx, awesome American company, superb product, read the instructions before install please. I think you can probably get away without new uppers. I had grease sling on my first couple of drives, only from the inner boot, I waited a few trips to monitor for more sling, saw none. So I cleaned it up and it seems OK now, and there’s no way I slung everything out of the boot. However, I did buy rolled-edge Norma clamps — 70-90mm from their W4 stainless line, 9mm width — to re-clamp the inners only, after adding a little extra CV inner grease (haven’t don’t it yet). This clamp will work if you have OEM CV axles, per others who’ve used it before. I guess my advice here is to buy a pair of clamps (Kartek Off-road can get you two for around $15 shipped IIRC, or you can buy a 10pk on scAmazon for $45ish, which I did so I could share my spares on here). If you have OEM CVs and OEM boots, your boots should - SHOULD - be OK. They hold up a hell of a lot longer/better than aftermarket. After a thousand miles or so, I’m not seeing any problem or signs of cracking. But @abcinv may be able to address this, he is running the ORS red silicone boots on his DC with a spacer level and 32.2” tires, IIRC. Another popular OEM boot is from the VAG/Porsche world, their OEM 930 boot works on out inners. And for CV axle grease, it’s looking like GFY H-15 grease will work on the inners based on digging was doing yesterday.

And RE: Loss of power… yeah, my truck is sluggish now. Seems like it hunts with cruise control on, even with the tiniest of grades, nothing I’d even consider a hill, which makes highway driving less fun for me, I don’t use cruise now. I’m so glad I didn’t go to 32.8” at 285/70r17. 32.2” at 275/70r17 was maybe more than I really needed with how aggressive a tire I chose. With 27s you get roughly a .6” drain increase from 265/70r17 a 275/70r17 and 285/70r17. But yeah … if you’re 2WD rehearing is always easier. If you’re currently 3.9x (I don’t know gearing by year/cab OTTOMH) it’d be nice to go 4.1, and probably fun to go 4.3?

 

I was only going to use the strut spacers to experiment and get the right height and then remove the spacer and adjust the shock/coil to match as closely as possible. That way I would only have to mess with the shock coil lift setting once

when we're talking about CV boots, that is different from the bellows? I've already got new ones to install those because mine had holes in them.

 

Bellows are usually referring to the accordion rubbers on your steering rack. Boots are referring to the accordion rubbers on your CV axles, where the larger boot is the inner (closest to diff) and smaller boot is closer to the wheel. If you don’t have 4WD, you won’t have boots. I didn’t understand why you were asking if you’re 2WD but added the info in case others stumble here later. Be careful what brand bellows you buy. I want to say some people had issues with Moog. Or maybe it was the Moog that are the only good aftermarket? I forget. OEM are fine.

 

I got OEM from one of the Toyota dealerships at a much better price after shopping online since my local dealership seems to sell all at full retail


Shifty also saw your post in another thread about projector lamp headlights. Researching LED mini-projectors as well as aftermarket housings now, and definitely going to replace, because I don't like how the LEDs I installed spray their light so badly but love the brighter light. Seems to be a lot of plug-n-play on ebay

 

If you end up needing advice on the projectors, there’s another thread on the 1st page about “longevity of CO light projectors” right now that’s walking through the current options. There’s not a lot of scAmazon right now, but CO Light has some offerings direct on their website.

Note if your lenses are cloudy, you’ll want to either polish them or replace. If replacing, get CAPA-certified housings. Cerakote kit for polishing headlights has produced great lasting results for some on here, but it costs half what a single new housing costs last I checked. I paid $65/housing buying new DEPO (solid brand). TYC and Eagle Eyes also good. RockAuto carries these brands and clearly indicates CAPA cert or not. If you’re in a high-sun place with lots of UV and park outside, like Florida, polishing and refinishing your headlights is sort of like breaking the seal on cheap beer night with the homeys. Most folks need to re-sand and re-polish every so often after the first time.

 

Don’t kill me cause I didn’t read this whole thing. IMO I’ll take a 295/70 over a 305/65 on 17’s. Looks like you’re trying to run 20’s so if they make it I’d pick a 295/65 or 295/60 over the 305/50. You’re barely going to notice the difference, but you’ll pickup more side all which is well worth the compromise on the width of the tire. Little more give and comfort as well.

No idea how much lift I have but I’m willing to guess it’s around 2.5-2.75” up front and whatever the icon progressive AAL yields out back. 17x9 -38 (3.5” backspacing?) on 305/70/17’s. It rubs all four corners under full compression. If you want the look the 295’s will get you there without all the heartache.

 

Does anyone have any experience with the 2883 or 2884 springs on a DC? I know what 1st gen off-road says but from reading all of shifty’s megathreads it seems like there is more lift than expected on a lot of these kits

 

DC 2WD? or DC 4WD?

Do you mind doing us a favor and updating your "Vehicle one-line description" over here? Add these three things in between the "2006" and "SR5" you've got now:

• DC / AC / RC --> for your cab type
• V8 / V6 --> for your engine type (if V6, include "MT" or "AT" for transmission)
• 4WD / 2WD --> for your drivetrain type

It will save the question I just asked (and many more) for everyone in the future. Your current description is really not doing anyone any favors. We can't help you unless you help us

​

 

all updated thanks shifty. I’ve seen a few posts regarding the 2884s giving 2.5” or so of lift in really hoping the 2883’s are lower. They should be since they are shorter. I reached out to 1st gen off-road on Friday but no response. Was just looking to see if anyone has actually run the 2883’s with 5100s firsthand

 

2884 shouldn't be giving more than 1.75" on any truck. But that Depends on your cab type and drivetrain type. What cab type is your truck? DC, AC, RC? That's not in your truck info.

​

 

It’s a DC. I can’t remember what thread it was but a poster said he got a little over 2” with the 2884’s

 

I've never seen anyone say that, not that I recall. But there's only so many brain cells left between these ears so who the hell knows. I'm a fuzzy target, as I'm sure some have seen on here. I remember major details, but sometimes it's like beer goggles with the finer stuff.

The measure up thread is a good one to check: https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-big-is-yours-measure-up.46186/

I see in there, @bulltrout is running an AC/V8/4WD and looks to've gotten just shy of level, about 1.75" lift before settling out on 5100/2884*: https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-big-is-yours-measure-up.46186/page-5#post-2904006

I would expect your result to be similar to his with DC/V8/2WD. If you wanted about 1/2" less lift, for DC/2WD, I'd go with the 2883. Should give you about 3/4"-1" forward rake over the 2884, which I'd expect to give you more like 1/4"-1/2" rake. I'd expect 2885 to give you about 1/2" squat on a DC/V8/2WD, but I'm not able to find anyone with that configuration on their DC at the moment. Seems like most dudes here have 4WD on the DCs, maybe?

 

I'm running that set up with the 2883's. Josh at 1st gen did me right - it's about an inch on the lowest after it settled. And I have 06 DC 2WD

I didn't measure it before and after I wish I would have.

 

Just realized I had a typo on my Bulltrout comment above (2885 instead of 2884). Thanks @Weagle for putting that out there. That's about right, I was expecting 1" -1.25" out of the 2883 and you're jibing with that. 2883/2884/2885 seem to have about 1/2" - 5/8" height difference between them.

 

hey that’s awesome do you have any pics of your truck after the 2883’s? How does it ride? What size tires are you running thanks man!

 

no sorry. Those pictures on my profile are just weeks before I did the install

I will take them as soon as I can. Unfortunately I've got someone repainting the hood and roof where they had oxidized very badly and my new primed tailgate. he does it at home and he is really good but he is slow. Slow slow

hopefully I can get them in time for you. Right now I'm still running the stock wheels with 265 65 17's. But if you're not in rush, then you'll have before and after pictures I'm going to try to put on 32 by 12s which is the reason I started this thread so I'll probably end up having to raise it another inch or so in the front

 

I was asking about the 4WD because I realized I was reading all these threads about tire / wheel sizing and lift but wasn't sure if I was comparing apples to apples.

i've gotten new lenses. They were beyond cloudy and what a difference, however, I plan to give my truck the same treatment G100 did in this picture with the new grill and headlights

 

I like it. Looks good. Those are the same wheels I purchased for mine. Still waiting on tires though.

Did you paint your mirror caps or are those replacements?

 

That's the same as my truck, but not mine. Just being sure you caught that

 

LOL. Didn't even notice that. Me mal.