Timing belt shopping list

Input please! anything im missing?

- Aisin kit with water pump, tensioner ect
- new thermostat and thermostat seal
- water pump inlet seal ( as the aisin kit does not provide)
- Bando serp belt
- lower and upper rad hose ( gates?)

Are the following mandatory?

- Serp belt tensioner ( if so, which brand? not seeing an Aisin one, is the gates ok?) ( saw someone say just do it if you have more than 300k miles)
- Serp belt idler pulley ( again no Aisin, gates ok?)
- Fan clutch?
- Fan clutch bearing bracket? ( saw someone say just do it if you have more than 300k miles)
- Toyota FIPG ( it seems this is for thermostat housing, but cant I just use the water pump inlet seal, which connects with thermostat housing?)

My truck has 180k miles

 

I’d do the radiator too.

 

Certainly not mandatory but definitely makes sense. It's a pain in the ass to get to if it goes out on you later. I just did mine recently. I went with Gates but I can't speak to it's longevity yet.

I did everything else on your list except for the Fan Clutch. I'll do that eventually. Gates Heavy Duty for the serp belt. I agree you should do the radiator while you have it out. Denso.

 

OP are you able to provide serial numbers or links for the items in your shopping list? I feel like that would be a godsend when it comes time to do mine.

 

This is a recently placed sticky that should help with links to most of the parts and answers most of the questions OP'r is asking....

Timing belt master thread/sticky?

 

money, thx

 

Serpentine Idler pulley -

$39 NSK 70SPPV0408DDUL Drive Belt Idler Pulley

NSK 70SPPV0408DDUL or 16604-0F010 (Toyota)

Serpentine Belt Tensioner -

$91 16620-0W101 Toyota Genuine V Ribbed Belt Tensioner Assembly

16620-0W101 (Toyota)

Fan Clutch Bracket -

$117 Aisin FBT-002 Fan Pulley Bracket - Compatible with Select Lexus GX470, LS400, LX470 Toyota 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tundra

Aisin FBT-002

I would not replace the fan clutch if it is functional.

Bando makes a good serpentine belt; in fact, the most recent dealer 2UZ-FE serp belt that I bought was labeled from Bando.

I would get radiator hoses from the dealer or Continental from AutoZone.

I would not replace the radiator unless its leaking, but that's just me. Time is starting to catch up with the original radiators though.

In general, avoid Gates tensioners, pulleys, water pumps, etc -- usually Chinese made garbage. I'm not a fan of their belts and hoses for foreign vehicles either, but plenty here have had good luck with them.

 

The risk here, even if low, is pink milkshake. You may not even know that's happening until damage is done. I'm a big believe in replacing 15+ year old radiators proactively.

 

x2 on this. These radiators are pressed together with plastic caps. Eventually the plastic dries up and the caps leak. It just starts one day, no warning. They are relatively cheap, so timing belt day is the perfect time to update. When they fail, it can be catastrophic to the trans.

 

That is a good point. The 05 and 06 Tundra's don't have an ATF dipstick, so there is no frequent inspection of the transmission fluid. Even so, it probably wouldn't take long for the coolant to do damage in there.

No argument from me here on radiator replacement, just get a good one like Denso. The prices on them are pretty decent.

 

I didn’t see the point in not swapping the radiator. At its age and with the system drained down anyway what’s another $150 for the denso.

 

Dang, paid $87 for mine. That was a few moons ago though.

 

Agree on replacing everything that is easy to do while you're in there. It's a long process and you only want to go through this once.

Good mechanic's gloves, 10mm sockets and wrenches, 12mm sockets and wrenches, extensions and adapters, coolant catch basin, floor absorbent, headlamps (makes it easy to see things), phone or camera, the how-to video all queued up.

Have a friend help you, makes the job go smoother. Also, when we did this, I set up a long portable table nearby to lay things out in sequence. Helped us to keep track of things. Plus, I hate bending over all the time.

 

@REESE77 what else did you have on hand when we did this?

 

Nice great input everyone, thank you! I think the rad has been replaced recently by PO , but as usual, no records or proof... may as well I guess

 

I would echo everything rigger said.

I also had fresh coolant (three jugs of xerex red/pink toyota stuff), and a thermostat.

don't forget that you need some RTV for the thermostat manifold (@shifty` could probably give some extremely technical info here) i used something basic from Permatex

I also replaced the serp belt (

$27 gates K060908 micro-v serpentine drive belt

gates K060908) and tensioner (gates 38488), seemed like good quality but time will tell

some people like to replace the fan pulley bracket as well, but i didn't. Mine is the OEM unit and at almost 300k it felt/looked brand new. i believe they are kinda spendy

 

Another vote for radiator if it's starting to discolor on the top cap, especially. The top cap should be uniform in color, and a deep, dark brownish black. If it's starting to tan or grey, or the top cap color isn't uniform, there's a good chance it's from the factory. Visual inspection isn't 100%, but just so you know what I'm saying, here's a visual example of a factory radiator that's long overdue and ripe for pink milkshake.

​

Here's a pic of my 75k mile factory radiator - note how radically different the color - this is what yours should look like, totally uniform and near-black, slight brown tinge:

​

 

Can't see the long overdue one, repost?

 

It's the first of those two pics, with the red arrow pointing at it. You don't see two pics in my reply?

EDIT: Oh crap, you can't. Lemme fix that real quick.

 

What a clean looking engine bay, trying to be like you when I grow up

 

Its picture perfect, just like it rolled off the showroom floor, except for the super dark brake fluid and the corroded positive terminal.

 

If you're talking about my truck (2nd pic), there's zero corrosion on the terminal, and the brake fluid isn't that dark, I just flushed it about 5k miles ago. Picture was taken in the back of a garage with no natural light.

 

Just saw what looked like corrosion/rust on the metal between the battery post and the plastic insulation of the cable. Not a big deal. Probably just the lighting. You got a super nice ride, looks like it has been taken care of over the years.

 

I think it's just optical. Someone changed to an oldschool style terminal clamp in the past. I blasted the hell out of it with converter, dielectric, and felts not long after getting the truck in 2018/2019. If I can find 'em and have the energy, I'll probably take some downtime over the weekend to update to a nicer PG terminal on the positive side. I need to start gearing up to finish audio upgrades when temps start to get into the mid-70s during the day.

Brake fluid definitely isn't clear, but in the sun it's a nice light-med green. The fluid I worked in was from a sealed bottle that was probably 2-3 years old. Was too lazy to go to the store. But yeah, low-mile truck in the south. Not hard to keep looking nice.

​

 

PCV Valve if removing valve covers for cam shaft seals? or dont worry about it?

 

Yes. 10 minutes job on yours. It just threads in and out.

 

kk