Timing belt change at 10k miles but 12 years?

My timing belt was changed 12 years ago, but only has 10k miles on it (yes, needs to drive more lol!). The interval is 9 years for time so it's overdue, but obviously way short on mileage. I inspected the belt by opening the driver side cover slightly, and it looks like new from what I can tell. What would you do?
I got a quote from my local dealer of $2600 for the belt, water pump, idler, pullies (radiator was another $1k, WTF !). Which seems crazy to me so I'm not exactly eager to change if not necessary. It seems to me that it's not so much the actual belt breaking that gets people to do that job, but more the water pump, idlers etc start acting up. I wonder if those parts actually get affected by the age (over mileage), or if it's only the belt that's prone to time wear?

To those that changed their belts early due to age, did you see any cracking/wear etc on the belt at that time? Has anyone's belt ever actually snapped (or even had water pump, idler issues) on time alone? And what mileage did you have on the belt at that time? Seems like if the belt was getting old and risking breakage due to age, it would actually have some sort of evidence of that by cracking etc? I realize it can have internal/unseen stress but I would think the belt would show some sort of fraying/cracks etc first? And if the damage can be unseen/internal, what's the point of even inspecting the belt through the cover? I know this is ultimately my decision to make, just checking what the consensus is from everyone since it's SO low of miles.

 

Specialty shop that only does Toyotas but isn't a stealership will probably cost you $1k less than the stealership is quoting, possibly more. Even the most expensive specialty shop near me (LexTechs) only wanted $2,200 (or maybe 2.3k, I forget) to do the same work.

I can't see enough of the belt to comment. You can loosen the cover enough to expose the whole belt, at at least 2/3 of it. What I'm seeing isn't enough. But given that's the one thing that will brick your engine, and things leaking (coolant/oil) onto the belt behind the covers will kill a belt in no time flat, and under-driven vehicles tend to have gaskets and rubber dry up and cause leaks ... I'm not sure I would personally chance it. But I'm sure it also looks like I'm often trying to spend other people's money on here...

 

Time worse than miles imo - but I live in an extreme client that’s hard on rubber.

 

Yup - heat is hard on rubber components. Change it. Agree with Shifty and find an independent garage that knows Toyotas. I’ve come to the conclusion that those who can’t do any mechanical work themselves probably should not own FGTs.

 

Time can be a cruel mistress. Rubber degradation is real. I absolutely wouldn't chance it.

 

Organic compounds rot with age. Change that belt.

 

Thanks all for the replies. I wasn't sure how far to try and separate the cover with the bottom bolt in still, seemed like it didn't want to go much more.
I do live in a hot dry area so I'll factor that in even more. Plus there was a period were it was only getting driven once a month or so, I guess that's even worse if the belt was flexed over a pulley etc and in that position in the heat for weeks on end.
I'm glad to see the resounding "change it" so at least I'm not tempted to be on the fence about it. My local Toyota only independent place is actually a step up in price from the stealership! Other indy toyota shop was $1600 all in but I didn't get a good vibe. I think I'll keep shopping around, but get ready for that bill anyways.

 

Local shop here charges $1400. Look beyond the dealer. And yes it's time even if belt looks good.

 

Are you mechanically inclined? I was able to do mine in half a day with only a couple struggles. Saved around $1,000.

 

This.

also make sure to get oem only. Even if a shop is doing it ensure it's oem. So much help here from the first gen mechanics.

 

for me I am in a time bind, winter will be on me in a few weeks, moving into a new house ( well old new to me) and working 50 -55 hour weeks. My newish to me tundra according to sticker is due for belts in about 20k. But the rest of the work Ive seen thats been done to this truck is poorly done. so debate to drive through winter with this belt, or replace. It will only see about 3k miles this winter.
the reason I brought this up is I debated just paying someone to do it. So called around , independents one who will only use asian kits was 1500, another who would not specify what kit they would use was 1300. Dealer was over 2

 

After watching the youtube vids, I could screw that up for sure, so I guess not mech inclined lol. But also no real space to work on etc.
Backstory is the belt was changed at 75k (now has 84k?) back in Feb '12. It was the Belt, water pump, both Idler & Ten(?) bearing, and thermostat. Was from a non dealer, probably just general mechanic. Not sure what belt brand was used.

The recent stealership Timing job estimate broke down as...
$809 Timing belt job
$475 water pump
$841 Tensioners (said may not be needed?)
$89 belts
$450 cam seals
Total- $2,664

 

DISCLAIMER: this is neither an endorsement nor a suggestion.

True Japanese made belts are incredible for quality. I replaced the timing belt, with a genuine Toyota belt, on my 1997 T-100 with the 5VZ engine (3.4L V6 non interference) on 5/6/2005 at 136,161 miles. It is still in there today at ~275,000 miles and looks absolutely great to the eye.

Factory replacement mileages are as much about Toyota managing their new car/truck warranty period as anything else.

Peace out.

 

I was planning to do the belt, but what I saw of it, seemed like in great condition. I realize that even if I get another year from it, I'll still be getting it done either way (just more risk). I think I'm just going to call it par for the course with an interference engine and do it soon. Now to get a realistic price for the job. Thanks all!

 

Dumb question, but I’m pretty sure my 07 5.7L has a timing chain. I see the OP’s sig says he has a 06. Do the 1st gen unit have a rubber timing belt?

 

Yes.

 

Shouldn’t need cam seals. And that’s an outrageous price for tensioners.


If the belt looks like it needs changed you waited too long.

 

That a not a bad price for cam seals though, I mean, in reality.

 

When I bought my truck, the timing belt had 15 years on it, but only 83K miles. I didn't even check it, I got it changed out.

 

uhh, lets not get carried away now...almost like saying if you cant brew your own beer....

.....

 

Think he’s saying it doesn’t make financial sense to own one if you can’t work on it yourself.

 

Or afford to pay someone to work on it.

Let’s be real though, the logic is sound either way. These trucks are more than 17 years old, no matter how you slice it. Parts will fail at that age. Systems will fail. Things will corrode, break, shrink, grow, rot, fall off. If you don’t have the ability to at least do basic troubleshooting, an understanding of fundamentally how things work, if you don’t at least have a moderate amount of tools and the knowledge and lack of fear (i.e. confidence) to use them, you may as well just blow the money you’re going to spend on letting other people mend your stuff on a new vehicle that won’t be in the same ballpark with regard to age.

Age kills everything, every one of us, it doesn’t discriminate. The only things that get better with age are whiskey, and my wife.

 

Depends on ones cash flow tolerances, but respectfully disagree [w/bfunke] based on comparison to overall cost of new + yr 1 depreciation...
and agree w/shifty: one should know what the trucks are about and worst case scenarios before commitment..a lot like marriages!

But back to OP: those LBJs and 8 bolts = under $250 + install may be the best $s ever spent on avoiding a traffic disaster.

Correction : I got this post confused w/earlier post on "steering not returning to ctr"
...but same idea w/TBelt/H20pmp/Cooling...except that at least w/TB failure you're not risking other lives.

 

My experience with timing belts on 4.7 Tundras.... when you change the belt, however long you have ran it, be sure not to set your old belt down where it might get mistook for the new one because it looks like new and you might accidentally put the old one back on. Not that I have done it, but it could easily happen because they look like new when you remove them.
I plan on running my timing belts 120K miles from now on. As far as the age goes, the main thing that ruins neoprene rubber is sunlight.
I would run it a few more years.

 

My dealer said the same thing, then changed them anyway. My dealership also told me I could bring my own parts, you should ask and see and you could bring the Aisin belt and component kit and your own radiator and save a lot of money

 

Wow, I thought the thread had cooled down, but I wasn't seeing the most current from my phone. Thanks for the helpful info on pricing, etc. I'm still checking out a couple mechanics, and I'll definitely ask the dealer about using my own parts (and how much of their work is not covered if bringing them parts). As for the age and paying to get work done, I went through the same thing with our 2004 Pilot. And how much work naturally needs to be done on any 20 year old car, along with drop off in OEM parts availability etc.

 

I did my timing belt 60k miles but 12 years. The old belt looked fine but was noticeably stiffer than the new belt. I have noticed the engine being peppier and happier to rev since the change. It seems to start easier too, cranking faster with the starter motor.

I did the change myself for well under a grand.

 

Rubber does weird shit over time, with heat, and being constantly under tension.

 

Rich L. said:
"I have noticed the engine being peppier and happier to rev since the change. It seems to start easier too, cranking faster with the starter motor."

...this alone makes me anxious to get it done. Thanks Rich L.

 

No, I fully agree with his statement. These 1st gens will nickel and dime you to an absurd death if you can’t work on your own $hit. I have 5 various 1st gens.