The Great HU Install of 2023

One last gut check...please. I am connecting the blue/white or blue wire from the TRIG1 to the blue/white "Amp Turn On" wire that is part of the main Maestro harness, which comes unconnected and capped off b/c it's not to be used in normal applications right? Normal meaning, everything else is stock & non-JBL.

 

connect to the blu/wht from the head unit side of the harness.

 

Okay, it didn't seem right to connect to this capped end coming from the Maestro out, so glad I asked. Thx

 

Getting closer, but still waiting on my HDMI port & some Posi-taps cuz AMZ lost my first order, but after reading some of the positioning information everyone shared recently, I decided to make the switch b/c I don't want jiggly screen issues to say the least. Obviously I think we can all agree the Metra kit is complete Dog sh!t, but it's the one I ordered, so I figured I could improve it as best I could. Therefore I moved the HU chassis into the lower position, which works fine and also added some thin flat washers under the screws to "spread out" the pressure against the plastic, hopefully this improves the sturdiness of the mounting of it.



I probably won't use the pocket for anything really, but I did remount it above the HU to add to the rigidity of the whole assembly. This requires cutting off the cross shaped tabs and drilling new wholes in the side place b/c they don't match up with any of the existing holes unfortunately, but as people said, it works.



I am definitely happy with the outcome though and after testing the screen, it should leave plenty of room to get all that hardware in when it comes time to attach it. It should keep me from having to adjust the screen up or down at all from what I can tell and keep it right where I want it, which is still below dash/window line of sight as much as possible.


Hopefully if all goes well, this baby is going in this wkd!

 

That part right there is the biggest bitch of the install.

 

Probably dumb questions , but here they are. Since I need to rip the dash apart again to lower my screen, I was going to add a Roku or Fire stick. So questions are, I assume I can power the stick with the unused USB from the HU, and 2, can I leave the stick behind the dash? Does the HU control it or does it need a line of sight so you can use the remote?

 

1. Yes - the extra USB can power it
2. The TV stick will be controlled by its own remote, so you’ll need it to see that remote (not sure if there are IR or RF). I would plan on running them to a convenient spot - that port that @BiggHertz showed is an option, or the combined HDMI/USB one so both ports are next to each other (both in the first post i think)

 

Cool, thank you!

 

If you go with the hdmi/usb port Amazon has been out of the 6ft model. I went with the 3ft in aluminum and it's got plenty of length.

Edit: link attached.

$10 BATIGE USB 3.0 & HDMI to HDMI + USB3.0 AUX Extension Dash Panel Waterproof Car Flush Mount Cable for Car Boat and Motorcycle - 3ft

https://www.amazon.com/BATIGE-USB3-0-Extension-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B073HZ4STM

 

Starting to tidy up this wiring in hopes of keeping the mess to a minimum when I shove it in. Never heard of/used Tessa tape before, but it is nice to keep things together for sure.

What have most done with the Maestro box? Leave it loose in there or attach it to the HU assembly somehow?

 

There appears to be a lot of headache and heartburn associated with these personal installs, yikes!! I was thinking of trading my 2019 Tundra SR5 in for a Canyon Denali (fits in the garage better) but I think I might just go for it and replace my factory HU, along with some custom Katzkin seats, but I will definitely pay someone to do it while I go golfing LOL. I live in North Scottsdale (Grayhawk area) so I'll need to find someone to do the install for me as I'll be adding a lot of bells and whistles to it. Go big or go home!!

 

OK, thanks to @RainMan_PNW I'm now hunting this thread for anyone who may have converted the OEM big screen to OEM double din, possibly by swapping with someone else who wanted the big screen. I have a good friend with the big screen who hates it, he's a crusty old dude and wants something more basic like the unit in my '02 Tundra (which I sold to him for a decade or so then bought back and forced him to 2.5 gen).

I'll do my best to read this thread, assuming plenty of answers in here.

 

The double din will be the Kenwood 1037S in this thread. The Alpines are single din.

 

Nice! I used to live in DC ranch for a bit. Played greyhawk many times. Couple of nice little racetracks you got there!

 

So the dash kits cover up all the space currently consumed by the big screen? And does the big screen control anything other than pure radio? I only got about 5 minutes in the truck and I was the passenger so I didn't get a feel for everything that screen might currently do. If it's just the radio and you can swap it out with any aftermarket unit then this seems super easy, just some crutchfield parts and done?

 

Sorry, I had a little chuckle at this, I too am just a simple 55 year old man who likes to listen to the radio but I like my Apple Car Play as well....I have no idea what he's saying.

 

If anyone has the lame version of this and wants the tablet for a straight trade, pretty sure I can deliver.



My friend does have an iPhone buuuuut, he thought the old school single din radio on his boat didn’t work because he didn’t realize there was a power switch labeled stereo. So, yeah, not super keen on fancy to say the least and is likely totally ok without CarPlay. He likes a volume knob and buttons I think. I was a jerk to steal the ‘02 back from him.

 

One thing I’ve ran into with my FireStick at home was occasionally needing to reset it by powering it down, which I did by pulling the microUSB from it. I wonder if I’ll have that issue again, and so I opted for an HDMI where the cigarette lighter port previously was so I could access the stick when that happens. Just a thought. I personally wouldn’t hide it unless I had another route to reset

 

Ok guys, I’m confused. This bundle of cables was not installed by the guys at BB. Any idea of why? In the manual for the head unit, it looks like this is referred to in “connections 1”. I don’t understand why it’s not used and how they were able to set it up without it. These guys also told me they had to splice in a cable to install a front camera, and I swear the vids I watched said it was front camera ready. I can’t say for sure, but I sure feel like these guys may have made some mistakes.

 

I think I only had to use one wire from that bundle.. can’t remember. Might have been the remote turn on for the amp (wouldn’t be needed if you don’t have an external amp).

wire they had to tap for the camera would be to signal the camera to turn on when the vehicle turns on. I believe I tapped my ACC wire for my camera.

 

That is the main harness that comes w/ the Alpine, but most likely they replaced it with the Maestro master harness, so it doesn't get used.

 

Yep, this is what I was going to say. If there was a Maestro RR installed they probably opted for the PnP harness to eliminate any splicing of the main harness.

And @meagain , like @dittothat mentioned, it’s normal to tap the amp turn on or another 12v accy line for the front cam. Power (at least 12v) isn’t available from the camera lead.

 

Since we're on the front camera topic...my Nakita front camera occasionally will flicker the image. It's random, most of the time it's fine, but other times it's useless and just provides a flickering image. It did this occasionally with the OEM JBL head unit and the FRAC harness as well, so I know it's definitely an issue with the camera. Power is tapped from the ALP1 harness on the accessory wire with a solid connection point. Guess I just need to replace the camera or is there anything else to check that might be the culprit? Maybe check the ground which is in the engine bay?

 

I would definitely lean towards the ground being the issue. Speaking of, I’m pretty sure my camera ground was looking pretty sketchy last time I looked. I should probably get on top of that.

 

Has anyone else had a difficult time downloading the Firmware update? I don't know what the problem is. I have tried 10x now & it either fails halfway through or gets almost all the way done and fails...

Is it not meant to be done on a Mac or something? I give up.

 

I haven’t tried the usb download. The OTA method on the head unit took for freakin ever though.

 

Should I wire this into my center console?

POSSPO Jupiter CD DVD Player for Car with USB Port AUX Port, Portable External CD Player That Plugs into Car Laptop Desktop TV Mac Computer, Plug & Play –Upgraded with Extra USB Extension Cable https://a.co/d/dUbE66X

I’ll get to keep my visor case logic

Still need to get my Offspring Smash cd out of my old kenwood. Figured it might increase the resale value

 

I don't know what the deal is. I noticed the USB instructions only refer to PC, so I wasn't sure if that was it or not. OTA may be all I have once I get it installed. Going to try again today.

 

Thnx again, all. Once again, many of my issues are more my lack of understanding. Best forum on the net, even if I do gotta keep making burner accounts every time I offend a moderator. No worries, I’ve got extras banked…

now all I gotta work on apparently is an issue where every bit of sound just disappears. I’ll be using CarPlay, and the sound will completely drop. Radio, CarPlay, gramophone, whatever. Just goes and won’t come back until I turn off and restart the key. Strange there’s not another way (per the manual that I scoured), sucks I have to stop and shut the vehicle down. The BB guys will prob just have to look it over. I downloaded the newest update for the HU when they installed it, but maybe there’s another pushed out. I’ll try that first

but thnx everyone