The Great HU Install of 2023

I think its 960H.

I could have fugged it up. I have to rip apart the dash once more to install the XM antenna adapter and an HDMI/USB plug to the HU, ill mess around with it see If i cant see whats going on.

 

Ok so I got my fire stick connected. I connected wifi via psk phone link on the head unit. It connects but says no Internet availabl



How do I get it connected? Do I have to turn off CarPlay or keep it connected?

I am not very tech savvy…..but trying to be lol

 

Bad news….this means you gotta get a new truck lol

 

Ok, i will let my wife know and report back......hahaha. I think I have it figured out

 

I am not tech savvy either. Used to be (I think). I just put the Wifi password in on the HU and the firestick and it auto connects for me every time I get in the car. I also leave my hotspot on 24/7 which some ppl say is bad/dangerous. Smart people; please advise.

I actually haven’t set up my CarPlay yet. Between Bluetooth calls, XM, and hdmi most of my bases are covered. Guess I need to find more friends who’d text me while I’m driving?

Hope you get it figured out and can watch some football on it tomorrow

 

You need to connect it to your phone hotspot, not the HU Wi-Fi. What you have selected in the pic is the HU Wi-Fi that doesn’t have an Internet connection. What kind of phone are you using?

Need CarPlay for Waze. Love always having the speed limit on the nav screen and they have the best police and hazard reports.

 

Good catch on the HU wifi. Yup needs to be your phones hotspot @shawn474

 

I am thinking after looking at the plastic side panels, is there enough clearance to stiffen them up with some sheet metal possibly. Just wondering if those who have been bothered by jiggling think it's the flexing of the side plates or the flexing of the mounting tabs?

 

Probably a combination of the plastic mounting plates, screen mount (especially in the higher positions), and the depth adjustment of the HU.

 

@ToyoMafia Is the 6' overkill or should I stay with that length. This seems the way to go.

 

I wouldn’t say it’s overkill. I feel like 3’ would be really tight or possibly too small.

 

What size do you recommend for these sized wires? Are these a TC-1 like in this box? Why can't they just use AWG!!? LOL

$11 KeeYees 500 Pcs U Shape Copper Ring Terminals Crimp Kit - Non-Insulated Assortment Cable Wire Spade Electric Butt Connector Kit

https://www.amazon.com/KeeYees-Shap...4&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY

 

Probably overkill just a bit but I didn’t want to come up short.

 

Yeah I don’t think 3 Ft would make it.

 

Yep - this worked. Thanks for the explanation.

Got it working now and it’s awesome. I spent 45 minutes waiting for my daughter to get back from a vb game and watched some Netflix while I was waiting.

 

Okay, I got a big pile of wires here that I went through along with the PnP instructions and I think I have everything determined except this VIM Bypass wiring. I am using the complete idatalink harness & adapter set up so I know it's the second flow chart, but I am still confused.

1) Is the "parking brake wire" and the "speed sensor wire" (how it's labeled from Alpine) a referenced to the same thing? Both are green/white.

So, this being it on the idatalink adapter harness? Which just gets insulated cuz it's already not connected?



And this one labeled speed sensor from the Alpine harness is the one that gets connections to the relay (I chose the Metra AX-TRIG1, but it's still in transit)?



Finally, it looks like TRIG1 has four wires, but I only see three represented in the wiring diagram, so a couple questions.

1) So, green gets connected to the Alpine Speed Sensor/parking brake cable from the HU?

2) Blue gets connected to both the same green wire and the ground & the blue/white on the ID Adapter harness?

3) Black gets connected to both the green wire and the ground?

What's the best way to make these multiple wire connections across 3 wires?

Is it best to tap into the ground & blue on the adapter harness (it's kind of short) or further down the line in the main ID harness?

Any input is appreciated. Once I have this figured out, this shouldn't be hard at all I am thinking. Thanks!

 

so...

Q1 Is the "parking brake wire" and the "speed sensor wire" (how it's labeled from Alpine) a referenced to the same thing? Both are green/white.

• No. the Drk Grn w/ wht stripe coming out of the Maestro PnP harness is your speed sensor output from the vehicle this needs to be connected to the drk grn w/ wht stripe that is labeled "speed sensor" wire. It is seperated because the main harness from alpine does not have the pinout for speed sensing as that is part of the video* harness.

S1) Finally, it looks like TRIG1 has four wires, but I only see three represented in the wiring diagram

• Correct, the 4th is utilized for legacy Alpine wires where it required a 12+ foot brake input signal as part of the bypass sequence. It is not needed in this application and should be insulated to prevent a systemic short.

Q2) So, green gets connected to the Alpine Speed Sensor/parking brake cable from the HU?

• As covered in Q1, the Alpine's Speed Sensor wire is to be connected to the breakout wire of the Maestro PnP harness.

Q3) Blue gets connected to both the same green wire and the ground & the blue/white on the ID Adapter harness?

• No, all wires are 1:1 connections. The incorrectly identified connection points are circled in red as they are line jumps, do not make connections at these junctions.
• 
• With that said, the Trig1 Module Blu/Wht or sometimes Blu must be tapped into the blu/wht wire of the main Alpine Harness.

Q4) Black gets connected to both the green wire and the ground?

• No, all wires are 1:1 connections. The incorrectly identified connection points are circled in red as they are line jumps, do not make connections at these junctions.
• 
• With that said, the Trig1 Blk must be tapped into the Blk wire of the main Alpine Harness, or applicable ground source.

Regarding the Drk Grn of the Trig1 unit, you will need to locate the Lt Grn wire of the Maestro Alpine Adapter and cut the wire. You well then connect the h/u side of the Lt Grn wire to the Grn of the Trig1 module. You will then insulate the other side of the Lt Grn wire that you just cut.

Let us know if that helps provide some additional guidance.

-JS

 

Thanks @BiggHertz Let me digest this. I need to sit down & stare at everything again. Lol Only way I learn.

 

Well done.

 

Demonstrates more patience to strangers on the internet than I can muster with my children some days.


@BiggHertz - when we going to play in the dirt?

 

Agreed…… I wanta play.

 

Thanks Gents!

As for playing in the dirt... I think we may do something Sunday..but have a bunch of commitment-phobes in our group chat....@TRDFerguson @TundraPHX @AT x AT @KevinK @matictundra

 

I should be hitting the dirt now so I am officially bored… time to drink

 

1. I'm pretty sure you're still going to lose that information in the instrument cluster. It's tied into the factory Navigation and DSIM modules. If you use the Toyota app for remote start or any other services (like SOS), those will also be gone.

2. The Alpine has two USB ports in the back. Hook the 2.1A one to the

$20 ACC-USB-TO3 USB Adapter UT03

ACC-USB-TO3 so that your factory port works for high-power charging and for CarPlay/AA (wired). The other one you can hook to the USB/HDMI adapter and you'll have 1.5A charging at that port for use to power a Firestick or ROKU.

3. I haven't seen a direct comparison of the Alpine to Natika front camera. At 10x the price, I can't see any reason to buy the Alpine. You will need a KCX-CAM1 adapter to connect an aftermarket RCA camera to the Alpine head unit (one comes with the radio, which you'll need for your backup camera).

 

Alright, appreciate the patience here, I am clear on everything else, but I still confused I am looking at the right wire for the parking brake, but I think that is due to a color change from the Maestro ACC-HU-ALP1 adapter to the Maestro HRN-HRR-TO3 main harness, but tell me if I am wrong.

On the factory Alpine harness I am not using since I got the Maestro adapter, it's the yellow w/ blue stripe, 3rd in from the right on the top row.


Therefore on the ACC-HU-ALP1 adapter it has to be in the same position, so it is blue with a yellow stripe



But then when you jump to the HRN-HRR-TO3 main harness is it light green like everything says. I was just confused why it also wasn't light green on the ACC-HU-ALP1 as well b/c I thought that is where everyone was making these connections, but now I see that would have made it easy to understand. LOL

So I am looking at the right one & the best thing to do is make all these module connections into the main harness not into the short adapter section. Correct?

 

correct, I’ve seen some harnesses where they respect the color from the maestro all the way through and some do not. But the lt grn on the maestro side should align with the ylw/blu of the alpine harnesses. Feel free to install it anywhere along the line that you feel will make packing it in the dash easier

 

Thanks again. I am meticulous PITA I know. LOL

 

Roger & Thanks! It was worth asking & I guess still saves me from adding the aftermarket puck. No huge loss otherwise. Never had remote start or use that app.

 

Finally got around to installing the head unit this afternoon. Still need to go through all the settings and adjust it the way I want. I noticed the front lower door speakers only seem to produce low frequency sounds is that normal? If so, I never noticed before. Don't mind the sticker residue, I still need to peel the film off and install the screen protector. I think I'm going to mount the volume knob where I had my frac switches installed (just under the front armrest).

 

Yeah I’m hoping someone can tell me how to adjust this thing. So far I do not like how it sounds. I know it needs adjusting but I have no idea what imm doing, and the OEM HU sounded way better right now