Thanks for the advice buying the truck - now to fix it! :)

Hello all, I wanted to post here and ask before I drive 3.5 hours to look at this truck. This truck lives in Eastern Idaho and spent the first 125k miles in Utah with first owner it now has 228k miles.

I do know it will need a timing belt as that hasnt been done since this owner bought it.

Can you all take a look at this video and tell me what you think of this frame rust? is it too bad will it cause issues for me?
They're asking $9,500 for this truck.

https://youtu.be/sb3xTWZskF8

 

The rust from what I see is mostly surface rust and can be treated before it gets worse (if you’re concerned about it). A wire wheel and some POR-15 (black semi-gloss)/chassis saver should be all you need for the areas of concern. If you drive where they salt the roads, a yearly treating of fluid film or PB surface shield.

 

Thanks for the response. Do you think it's pretty clean for a 2006? I'm looking for a truck to last me at least 100k miles. and these first gen toyotas seem to be reliable.

 

Everything that rusts, is not rusted.....
Thats not "mint" but that is REAL clean in comparison to the "standard" stuff you see on them.
The exhaust hangers are still tan colored and completely intact without delaminating.
The ehaust shields are all still held up and the bolts havent rusted thru
the frame still has the factory paint with only slight surface rust around the welds where the paint is stretched and cracks
That is practically no rust honestly.
I dont know what the rest of the truck looks like so i cant tell you if its worth $9500 but the frame looks clean assuming all the other stuff you need to look for checks out.

 

I think so from a rust perspective. You may finding yourself doing some front end work at that mileage just due to normal wear and tear. If that doesn’t bother you, you should be fine.

 

Looks like a typical truck from the area. Nothing jumps out at me as bad or beyond. Would help if he wasn't zoomed in the whole time, but ... I'd feel pretty confident, but visually inspect that timing belt before you really hammer it home.

 

Yeah the guy is willing to take $8000 and the rest of the truck is in great shape. recently had front struts and the brakes done and has new tires.
We're heading there in a bit. What do I need to look at with the timing belt? are they fairly easy to see? What tools do I need to bring?

 

10mm.

Loosen up the fasteners on whichever valve cover is easiest to get access to so you can shift the valve cover back and look at the belt. You're looking for hairline cracks.

 

That frame looks clean to me.

 

Looks clean and the miles don't worry me, but you said that you are looking for a truck to "last me at least 100k miles". That's a pretty tall order without spending a bit to get there. If you know how to wrench, or can learn how to wrench, you'd save yourself quite a bit of money. A high mileage truck will nickel and dime you to death if you can't......

 

yeah, I wrench. I dont love it but I can definitely do it. I had an old volvo that I went through top to bottom and that thing just kept on going. I'm mostly tying to avoid major engine/ transmission failure or electrical issues that are impossible to diagnos.. like my wifes kia where it's front right blinker stopped working but the bulb is fine...

 

//Australian accent//
You call that a Utah truck? This is a Utah truck!

 

Here are some more photos, I’ve been tapping around with a hammer and it’s not rusted through in any spots but it does have a fair bit of rust

 

Not as bad as you think. You can pull the hitch/rear bumper reinforcement and restore that with a wire wheel and some POR-15 or just buy another one in better shape.

The last pic area with the sway bar support I would definitely clean that up with a wire brush and put a rust protector on it.

The rear bumper isn’t worth restoring. Best to just buy a new aftermarket when it rusts through.

 

Ignore the tow hitch stuff. Mine is rusty, and it’s never left the south, much less seen any noteworthy amounts of salt. We’ve had members from Cali have their factory tow hitch rust to bits. It’s a poor design. I really don’t feel like that truck is awful. It’s more than I’d like to have on my truck, but it’s nothing that’s require extensive work to reverse, definitely shouldn’t require welding. It’s your money. I’d potentially wait out for something cleaner BUT that is really not THAT bad at the price point of $8k

 

Buy it. For a first gen tundra that’s probably a 7 or 8 out of 10 rust wise. Nothing structural, welds and trailer hitch will always rust first. Hit it with a wire brush or something on a power tool, paint and then fluid film it.

 

Another in agreement, looks good and sound. Mine is the in the same shape (Washington).

 

OK, so I ended up buying the truck last night and drove it the 200 miles home. I now own a 2006 DC 4 x 4 limited I ended up paying $7700 for the truck. Here are a few photos, as well as a question or two.



OK, now for a couple questions the lower ball joints look to be original to me? Do I need to replace them?


Next question, what would you do about the rust here?

it looks like the valve covers are leaking a bit? Should I just replace those gaskets when I replace the timing belt?

The timing belt looks to be replaced about 100,000 miles ago and five years ago. My thoughts are that rubber usually rock so that’s less concerning than a 20 year-old belt? Obviously, I still wanna change it soon

 

I would just replace the LBJs and bolts and be done with any concern over it. The door you should pop the bottom seal off and see how it looks underneath. Also do the same for the inside of the door. If it’s rusting from the inside you’d want to know if anything to the outside will last. Otherwise, I’d just say sand it, prime it and paint it.

 

Yep exactly.

Read FAQ, go through truck slowly and methodically and you'll know what to replace/deal with. The pics seem to present a truck that is very much "savable" in terms of rust - so perhaps if you're willing to put the work in to clean/coat areas as you go it'll be worth the time investment. Even with lack of maintenance and the mileage/condition/strange ass early sequoia looking wheels - it seems like you got a pretty good deal there!

Congrats, welcome and prepare to dump a bunch into it and bring her up to snuff.

 

Welcome to the club! If you see this truck driving around, honk and say hi. I'm also in SW MT, though based on your photos I think I'm a bit farther south and west.




Funny how similar a lot of people's experiences are. I was looking at trucks online, found frame photos, posted them here for opinions. Found my truck in Idaho and traveled to buy it. You got a better price than me, but very similar mileage and you've got a bit more rust, so I think the price was right for both of us.

The first Tundra I looked at was in Idaho Falls, where it looks like you got yours. Ended up finding mine in Boise. Idaho seems to be a hot spot in our area for well-preserved Tundras.

 

I don't think you'll be sorry. On frame rust the place to look is where it's laminated, especially around the gas tank area. Your rust looks superficial. I would clean it up and drown it in fluid film as needed. Do the timing chain and lower ball joints (OEM) as others have noted, and inspect the lower control arm bushings. 228K Montana Utah Idaho miles are probably mostly highway. Look after the items mentioned and it should be good for 150K more miles.
I had a WTF moment when I saw the drivers seat. Every leather seat Tundra I have ever seen came apart by 180K miles. Must have been a small driver and long trips rather than in and out with fatass a dozen times a day.

 

Mine is similar. Pretty mint leather on the driver seat. You're probably right. Original owner was probably a similar build to me. Average height but on the skinny side. Bought at 225,000 miles.

 

My 2001 access cab has been in Idaho it's whole life and has absolutely zero rust. At over 400k, I'm about to buy my third 1st gen any day now. I drove an 1hr+ to look at a double cab yesterday (came from a dealership in twin falls), and was surprised to see some surface rust under it. It's at 212k and has had nothing replaced except one timing belt job and it made me suspicious. He's asking 11k for it but I'm unsure if I should even consider talking him down...unfortunately I didn't take any pictures while I was under it. Any advice? Should I go look at it again? Sorry to hijack the thread...

 

I actually think that mine had that panel replaced because it looks newer than the rest of the leather.

I just got a quote from an independent toyota repair shop here to do the timing belt, water pump, serpentine belt and the coolant and was quoted $1532 parts and labor. They don't use OEM parts but use Aisin? I thought those were the OEM?

 

no worries on the thread. I negotiated the price down to $8k before I ever went and looked at it because the timing belt needed to be changed. (He was asking $9200) What model is it? I think thats too much personally unless its a top of the line and it's mint.

 

Yeah, I'm in Bozeman! Where are you at?

 

It's just a base SR5 model in pretty good shape. Just a few pinstripe scratches and one tiny dent, the rear bumper is still straight and the body looks pretty clean. His dad bought it new off the lot in twin falls and he says it's been in southern Idaho it's whole life, as has mine, so that's what through me off when I saw underneath. He said the only thing that's happened was he hit a deer and replaced the grill and headlights. They did the timing belt in 2013 100k ago so it will need it done right away, as well as ball joints and maybe a radiator and brakes. I'm not surprised it hasn't had anything else replaced on it, but it makes a little worried I'll have to sink alot into it right away. Concerned it hasn't had anything done except the one timing belt. No calipers, radiator, ball joints, starter, alternator, nada!
I got mine at 280k for 2000$ and drove it for 7 years with just a brake job, starter, and alternator. (Although it had just had the timing belt and LBJs done when I got it.) I'm now just over 400k and it's starting to feel like it's losing power.
Even if I talk him down to 8 or 9k, I'm concerned it will fall apart on me. Kind of on the fence if I should move on and look for something better..