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Tapping ACC/IGN and BATT power from fuse box?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by shifty`, Oct 5, 2021.

  1. Oct 5, 2021 at 11:42 AM
    #1
    shifty`

    shifty` [OP] sub-80k mile club

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    Got a couple free days ahead of me before crunch time hits me and possibly no free time for weeks to come. So I'm working on hardwiring my Gentex mirror and Dashcam.

    No double cab here, thus no easy-tap accessory and constant power wiring in the overhead console. Access Cab and Regular Cab console lights have 12v constant (BATT) I could tap, but not stoked about three devices (lights, cam, mirror) pulling constant from that skinny, 22awg looking wire.

    Many older vehicles I've owned had a spot in the fusebox to direct-tap ACC/IGN and constant BATT if needed. I see this one fuse 'blank' in my box is ACC/IGN with the hot on the right as marked, so I could use a BUSSMANN add-a-tap or add-a-circuit to get my ACC power there.

    Anyone have thoughts on a constant 12v BATT source? I guess I could use the same BUSSMANN product to tap from HORN, which is 12v constant.

    Anyway, maybe someone else has clean ideas to tackle this or I'm missing something. And if this is the best solution versus using vampire-style taps (which suck, ah hah hah hah!) maybe this thread will serve as a beacon for others in the future.


    upload_2021-10-5_14-32-52.jpg

    Looks like the overhead console has three wires - I'm assuming the two fatter wires are power (blue?) and ground (white?), and the skinnier middle wire (white/grey?) is used for the door plunger contact.

    upload_2021-10-5_14-41-48.jpg
     
  2. Oct 5, 2021 at 3:31 PM
    #2
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Saw it right off

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    If it was just the mirror, would have no problem using the blue wire(EWD shows it as Blue/Yel). That's what they used for their Auto Dimming Mirror Kit.
    What do they say current draw is for camera ?

    Curious if you have replaced the lights to LEDs, which draw less current. That circuit is fed off of 10amp Dome fuse.
     
  3. Oct 5, 2021 at 4:25 PM
    #3
    shifty`

    shifty` [OP] sub-80k mile club

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    I have upgraded to LEDs on the overhead console, but I'll need to run an ACC cable to the mirror anyway to secure it, IIRC. (Prevent Homelink from being able to open my garage when parking outside). Additionally, the dashcam has a vibration sensor module that's best installed in a location other than the roof.

    I figure if I'm needing to run a cable for ACC anyway, may as well go ahead and run both on the same dedicated circuit, down to the fuse box. Then I can mount the dashcam's vibration module on the firewall or a kickpanel, which is where we typically installed alarm impact sensors back in the day.
     
  4. Oct 5, 2021 at 9:08 PM
    #4
    EvilMilkshake

    EvilMilkshake New Member

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    You'd need to wire both ports to ACC. Homelink gets its power from the 12v constant port on the mirror.
     
    shifty` [OP] likes this.
  5. Oct 5, 2021 at 11:17 PM
    #5
    Tundra2

    Tundra2 Zoinked

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    Here is a link to my post on the build thread for the V6 when I hardwired my dashcam. Pics looks like I fuse tapped the ACC circuit which makes sense. I wanted the dash cam to come on with the key, and then turn off with the key.

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/tundra2s-lifetime-project.65626/page-2#post-1814834

    Here is the kit I used on A-zon. Comes with multiple sizes of fuse adapters.
    Dash Cam Hardwire Kit, Mini USB Hard Wire Kit Fuse for Dashcam

    I'm not sure how to help with the gentex mirror, but suppose you could make a two ended adapter from this. One for dash cam, and one for mirror.
     
    shifty` [OP] likes this.
  6. Oct 6, 2021 at 7:08 AM
    #6
    shifty`

    shifty` [OP] sub-80k mile club

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    I'm going to stick with Bussmann from local auto parts store on the circuit tap. One of two brands I trust, and not looking for counterfeit risk :D

    How much of a pain in the ass is it to remove the A-pillar trim, and any tips? Start from roof or dash? I've got fish rods for low voltage jobs to pull cable, I'll probably skip pulling the headliner and fish from overhead to A-pillar, routing behind the visor boss.

    Suspect I'll decide wiring on the fly. On the fence still. Got plenty of shrink wrap and tesa/gaffer tape to pre-wrap, I really don't mind pre-wrapping two leads and solder+heatshrink at the circuit tap, since the dashcam uses USB Micro for power. It'd be an easy decision if Garmin didn't put the parking mode sensor on the fuse box end of things. Based on what I've seen with overheat risk when using parking mode on the Garmin Mini v1, I may just lop off that sensor totally, would simplify things.

    Wanted to do this today but looks like I'm tilling & plant for fall this morning, shipping a couple things about to other FGT'ers, smoking a pork butt for dinner and drinking with a friend that lost her mom last week to the 'rona. No rest for the weary...
     
  7. Oct 6, 2021 at 9:26 AM
    #7
    EvilMilkshake

    EvilMilkshake New Member

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    The A-pillar comes off with a tug after removing the oh-shit handle. There's other wires in there already, so easy to see the safe path. IIRC, start from the top and get it back enough to be able to run your wires, then use a cable fish to get it down to the fuse panel. I did the same and ran the wire along the headliner to the mirror. It was easy to tuck it back up there out of sight.
     
    shifty` [OP] likes this.

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