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Symptoms of Failure

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by BlackSheep, Apr 24, 2019.

  1. Apr 24, 2019 at 4:00 AM
    #1
    BlackSheep

    BlackSheep [OP] ol’ Reliable

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    2.5” shocks, 3/1 level, 37s, 5.29s, air locker, on-board air, bed cap, bed stiffeners, roof rack, steps/sliders, spare carrier, under seat storage bins, window tint
    So I installed a 3/1 level on my 2010 recently, and I've notice some new developments I don't like. First, the lower ball joint on the driver side is spewing grease. I also saw very fresh fluid on the driver side tie rod boot. This boot has also ripped in two right at the end next to the clip and is exposing the shiny rod. Anyone else have experience with these things? What repairs follow them?

    585DEF29-11B9-42E6-94BE-03AC60BDB2CB.jpg C58DC3DF-D82C-48E4-804F-89EBAAF29A01.jpg
     
  2. Apr 24, 2019 at 4:28 AM
    #2
    ShreveportTSS

    ShreveportTSS Huh?

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    Installer used a pickle fork and damaged them?
     
  3. Apr 24, 2019 at 6:02 AM
    #3
    Wiscdave

    Wiscdave New Member

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  4. Apr 24, 2019 at 6:07 AM
    #4
    Porkchop Express

    Porkchop Express Its all in the reflexes

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    I may be totally off base here , but you should be able to replace the ball joints with MOOG grease-able ones.
    The CV boot may be torn and water could have gotten into the join there
     
  5. Apr 24, 2019 at 6:31 AM
    #5
    BlackSheep

    BlackSheep [OP] ol’ Reliable

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    2.5” shocks, 3/1 level, 37s, 5.29s, air locker, on-board air, bed cap, bed stiffeners, roof rack, steps/sliders, spare carrier, under seat storage bins, window tint
    Good to know, thanks for the insight. There appears to be evidence of older, dust-covered residue on the boot as well that's visible in the photo. The passenger side looks like it has the same thing, but no new seepage. No repairs have ever been made to the rack, so I guess mine is one of those that seeps...

    As for the ball joint, I installed the kit myself, and never pried on or jacked from the joint itself. I did put a floor jack on the LCA right next to the ball joint. There was no leakage when I bolted the LCA back up to the knuckle. I first noticed it after driving about 50 miles when I was having new tires put on. I wiped it off and checked a couple days later, and there was more grease in the same spot. I haven't touched it since then, but it doesn't appear to be getting worse anymore.
     
    Watt maker likes this.
  6. Apr 24, 2019 at 6:33 AM
    #6
    BlackSheep

    BlackSheep [OP] ol’ Reliable

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    2.5” shocks, 3/1 level, 37s, 5.29s, air locker, on-board air, bed cap, bed stiffeners, roof rack, steps/sliders, spare carrier, under seat storage bins, window tint
    I've read in several places on here that the Moog ball joints' quality is very hit or miss, and I'd be better off going OEM. Only problem is, Toyota (apparently) doesn't sell just the bracket with the ball joint, so I'd have to replace the whole LCA. Someone correct me if that's wrong.
     
  7. Apr 24, 2019 at 6:53 AM
    #7
    Atomic City Tundra

    Atomic City Tundra Cam Tower Leak Addict

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    You are not wrong. Yota makes you buy the whole enchilada.

    I replaced my lower ball joints at 65,000 miles because they were shot. I went with Beck-Arnley replacement units. I am at 77K now and they are doing fine so far. But time will tell.
     
  8. Apr 24, 2019 at 6:57 AM
    #8
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    That appears to be correct from TOCS parts catalog. Lower ball joint is identified in the parts diagram as Item 13, and text descriptions go directly from Item 12 to Item 14. That indicates to me that the lower ball joint may have been available separately at one time, but has been discontinued without explanation.

    Edit: As Ron said, wipe it clean and observe for continued leakage. It'll probably be fine once the seal gets used to it's new position. On the old ball joints, relief vents were molded into the seals to accommodate excessive increase in internal pressure...like an idiot over greasing. As for the fluid leakage...it's a 2010, that steering rack has lived a long and happy life, and is having trouble adjusting to the new strain.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2019
  9. Apr 24, 2019 at 7:17 AM
    #9
    Mgmtundra

    Mgmtundra MGM Crew

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    Well, sounds like a good reason to go LT! Replace it all good to go
     
  10. Apr 24, 2019 at 10:43 AM
    #10
    Brocksw

    Brocksw New Member

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    Just put a lift in my 2012....scared I'm gonna be next. SOB
     
  11. Apr 24, 2019 at 11:43 AM
    #11
    BoTheTundra

    BoTheTundra New Member

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    I have a 3/1 on my tundra with 200k and have yet to see an issues, installed inproperly maybe? But then again the stock upper and lower aren't ment to always sit at that level, as well as the trucks suspesnsion moves on an arc not and up and down plain
     

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