Sub Install

Well I was motivated AF the other night and did a thing. Ended up installing these:



I bought those MTX Road Thunder 10's off a buddy in 1999 (my senior year of high school) and have had them in just about every car I've owned since.

The amp is an Alpine 200w... bought it sometime in the mid 2000's to replace an older Jenson 200w that I got the same time as the speakers.

The box came from Amazon, and I'm really happy with the quality of it.

https://a.co/d/imJV1Yj

And I had all the wiring and connectors needed in the garage already. This might be the first time being a hoarder has paid off.

Anyway, here's how it sits now. The kids had no idea they were back there and I turned it up on the way to school. They thought it was great.



And as a note to anyone thinking of doing this: when you take out the rear seats, start with the smaller section on the passenger side, then do the larger piece; reassemble in reverse order. Where they mount to the floor there are large dowels to guide them in, and on the large section of the seat, it's easier to tilt the driver side up and guide it in. Can't do that if the passenger side seat is already in place. Ask how I know.

 

Oh and one other thing... I tapped the rear door speakers for the signal. If you pop the panels on the b pillars you can access the wires. Mine is the non-premium audio (non-JBL), so driver side had two sets of yellow and black wires twisted together (one set for the tweeter, one for the larger door speaker) and the passenger side had two sets of red and white, also twisted together. Followed those to the b pillar and picked the lower set, tho I'm not sure it mattered which set I used. For all I know the one I picked could be for the tweeter, but the amp has a low pass filter for anything below 80hz. Seems to be working fine. This wiring diagram helped.

 

Very nice. I have a kicker Solobaric 8” with original box from crutchfield circa 1997 in my 2000 powered by a punch 75 I got third hand from my brother in law for free. Sounds good to me! About your rear door speaker tap, if you find the bass lacking at the upper volume levels (assuming you have a factory radio since you’re not running RCAs) there is a line out converter and signal processing device that many use when adding a sub to the factory radio. The radio cuts the bass at higher volumes to protect the factory speakers I’m assuming.

 

Nice! Yea running the factory radio. For my purposes this was way overkill. I listen to music no more than halfway up on the volume 90% of the time. If my wifes in the truck with me I don't even bother turning it on. She's got too much talking to do.

 

Nothin wrong with old school!
I'm working on a sub install as well.. the box specs on Amazon say that's 9.5 in at the base. You didn't have any issues with rear seat fitment? My box is 8.5 and seats won't go back in.

 

No issues with mine going back in. I think that dimension you're talking about is the width of the hole for the speaker. The depth of that box at the bottom of the wedge is only 7" I think. I'll break out the tape measure tonight and double check it.

 

Good to know. Thanks for checking, appreciate that!

 

Jeez, sorry man... I totally forgot to check this.

Since it's in already I could just check the bottom, but it's 7" at the base. Found some pics on the Amazon listing that someone took measurements of. Seems like most people are installing these in Tundras.

 

It's ok, I figured it out.. thanks for getting back to me!