1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Steering wheel clunking sound

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by B.G., Jan 25, 2021.

  1. Jan 25, 2021 at 11:44 AM
    #1
    B.G.

    B.G. [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2021
    Member:
    #58134
    Messages:
    4
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    06 SR5
    Hi - this is my 1st post here on the Tundra forum. I have an 06 SR5 2 WD that started making a clunking sound on rocky rough roads only. My truck has 88K miles on it since new. I recently had an the lower ball joints, steering ram mounting bushings, alignment, and new Michelin tires all the way around. After poking around online - I decided to check the lower steering shaft for slop at the 'rag joint' shaft coupling. There is clearly vertical movement at the joint, but little if any lateral movement. The rubber union felt surprisingly soft - given that the outside air temp was only around 36 degrees when checking it for slop. The bushings for the sway bar look good visually. I could hear a bit of clunk when pulling up and down on the tail shaft of the lower rod. I'm 99% sure the noise is coming from the rag joint. Here is my main gripe - the replacement is over $200, and I'm pretty sure that a new rubber disc is all that's necessary for the job. Maybe I'm wrong. It wouldn't be too difficult to cut off the existing rivets and install a new disc using grade 8 bolts to replace the rivets. The Toyota replacement includes the entire assembly - that's why the high cost. Has anyone found a suitable replacement that can be made to work ( safely ) ?

    Thanks

    Bruce
     
  2. Jan 25, 2021 at 1:56 PM
    #2
    PenderBen

    PenderBen Forum lurker…

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2019
    Member:
    #32072
    Messages:
    503
    Gulf Islands, BC Canada
    Vehicle:
    2003 Tundra AC 4x4
    How are the shocks? Bad shocks or shock mounts could lead to clunking.
    I know that wasn’t really what you were asking, but a worth checking before getting more in depth.
     
  3. Jan 25, 2021 at 2:45 PM
    #3
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2018
    Member:
    #14878
    Messages:
    14,993
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    ‘Somewhere’... a State of Mind
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tundra SR5 4WD 4.7L AC Silver Metallica
    Hand Protectors
    I’d ask that you take some pics of your work as it might help save some money for anyone in the future considering fixing this problem. You sound like you have a good idea.
     
  4. Jan 25, 2021 at 3:05 PM
    #4
    B.G.

    B.G. [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2021
    Member:
    #58134
    Messages:
    4
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    06 SR5
    Thanks for the replies so far.
    Shocks and shock bushings are in good shape. Entire front end was checked out 6 months ago and the worn parts replaced. I'm quite positive that the coupling is the problem. The guys over in the Taco forums gripe about this all the time. They also has stated that the collapsing portion of the column is the culprit. Many of them have welded that part of the column at the slip joint to make it solid. They claim that the noise is gone after doing this. My concern is that this modification makes the steering shaft solid - and it is supposed to collapse in a head on accident. This to keep the wheel from crushing the driver. Pretty important. It's also a ton of work to take out the steering column on the Tundra. I'm hoping someone here has had some experience with replacing the lower steering shaft - or even changing out the flex joint disc / rag. That isn't a big job if you're handy. But I can't find any soft parts for the coupling specifically made for Toyota. Only option I have found is replacing the entire shaft with the OEM part.
     
  5. Jan 25, 2021 at 3:15 PM
    #5
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2020
    Member:
    #54157
    Messages:
    2,202
    First Name:
    Andrew
    Northern CA
    Vehicle:
    '05 SR5 AC
    Remote start alarm Removed keyless entry piezo Qi phone charger & dash mount Subaru underseat subwoofer Hopkins Easylift Steering wheel audio controls No-tenna mod 3/4 adhesive anti-rattle shim D/S door
    You could try removing the column and slide the shaft out, coat lightly with some adhesive like silicone caulking or windshield urethane then install and let cure 24hrs.

    This may eliminate the slop but still allow it to break free in an accident to slide, as intended.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2021
  6. Jan 25, 2021 at 3:33 PM
    #6
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2018
    Member:
    #14878
    Messages:
    14,993
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    ‘Somewhere’... a State of Mind
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tundra SR5 4WD 4.7L AC Silver Metallica
    Hand Protectors
    Nice idea. I like the Urethane idea.
     
  7. Jan 25, 2021 at 5:53 PM
    #7
    B.G.

    B.G. [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2021
    Member:
    #58134
    Messages:
    4
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    06 SR5
    I'm sure that could be done - I just don't want to mess with that part of the column unless it actually is the cause of the problem. I need to temporarily fill the spaces on the Rag joint above the steering box - then take it on a bumpy road and see if anything has changed.


     
  8. Jan 26, 2021 at 10:40 AM
    #8
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2020
    Member:
    #40572
    Messages:
    13,937
    Gender:
    Male
    Arkansas
    Vehicle:
    2000 Limited TRD AC 4X4 Thunder Grey 278k miles. *SOLD* 2019 Limited TRD CM 4x4
    Bilstein 5100's on the forbidden notch Husky HD rear leafs 16x8 Eagle Alloy 187's with 285/75/16 MagnaFlow 3" flow through Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers & trim ARE Mpulse topper - Rhino Vortex rack
    Mine was outer tie rods. Had just replaced them too. Could be almost any part of the articulating suspension. LBJ was replaced so may eliminate that. Get it up on jacks and pull on the tires. 12 and 6 to check for bearing play and ball joint play. 3 and 9 to check for steering component play. Doing one wheel at a time leaves the other on the ground to resist moving while inspecting the other. May need one person working the tire and one looking underneath individually at each component during. I have a clunk on the right front again that I haven't chased down yet. The joys of owning an older truck. Good luck and let us know what you find. If it turns out to be the rag joint, post some pics or a vid to help others diagnose theirs.
     
  9. Jan 26, 2021 at 10:50 AM
    #9
    PenderBen

    PenderBen Forum lurker…

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2019
    Member:
    #32072
    Messages:
    503
    Gulf Islands, BC Canada
    Vehicle:
    2003 Tundra AC 4x4
    Yeah, I wondered about LBJs too, were OEM used? Did the clunk ever go away after the work done then come back?
    I can’t say about the rack and other stuff you’re looking at, but that doesn’t seem to be a common problem on these trucks, at least that I’ve read about.
     
  10. Jan 26, 2021 at 11:18 AM
    #10
    B.G.

    B.G. [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2021
    Member:
    #58134
    Messages:
    4
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    06 SR5
    Thanks for the replies and ideas. When the weather dries out a bit - I will mess around with it to check the other possible problems
     
  11. Nov 17, 2021 at 7:22 AM
    #11
    Adventundra

    Adventundra New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2021
    Member:
    #64714
    Messages:
    281
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Adam
    NJ
    Vehicle:
    2016 SR5 Long Bed
    Cap and bed slide
  12. Feb 21, 2024 at 6:20 AM
    #12
    zack20cb

    zack20cb New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2024
    Member:
    #112365
    Messages:
    4
    First Name:
    Zack
    Vehicle:
    2003 Tundra (Base, 5-Speed)
    I’m posting here because this thread came up when I was searching for clues about what turned out to be a much simpler problem.

    If the clunk is more of a metallic clank, and it feels it’s coming from inside the wheel rather than somewhere down the column, it’s likely to be a failed vibration damper. This definitely happens on 2003-2004 Tundras and Sequoias, and I’ve heard of it happening on 05/06.

    Note: Be sure to disconnect the battery and bleed off any capacitance before opening the steering wheel!

    Removing the failed vibration damper is a quick fix with simple tools, and there seems to be no adverse effect. I recommend doing this, it’s much better than leaving the broken part floating inside. On my truck, it started to jostle the clock spring and fire the horn when I was parallel parking. Not cool.



     
  13. Feb 21, 2024 at 7:01 AM
    #13
    FishNinja

    FishNinja HIDE YOUR DAUGHTERS

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2024
    Member:
    #109562
    Messages:
    2,184
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Lee
    TEXAN....big surprise
    Vehicle:
    06DC2wd
    our racks like to explode with heavy wheeling.

    the rack bushings can be a culprit for clunking. They may look good but rubber is a deceitful material
     
  14. Feb 21, 2024 at 2:02 PM
    #14
    shifty`

    shifty` In South Dakota Trouble ain't hard to find

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2020
    Member:
    #48239
    Messages:
    28,720
    ATL
    Vehicle:
    '06 AC Limited V8/4WD
    (see signature for truck info)
    Over in the steering wheel info dump thread, you'll see some pics in the specific reply I just linked. Seems like the later year 1st Gen Sequoias and the 4Runners had the weight. My 2006 Access Cab didn't. Super weird.

    And lemme tell you, they must've threadlocked that SOB weight in there, because the damn thing WOULD NOT come out without some butchery. Total pain in the ass. There's one other member who had the clunk you mention, in another thread, because their weight detached from its metal bracket.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top