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Steering Components

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by 2006 Tundra AC, Jan 26, 2021.

  1. Jan 26, 2021 at 3:49 PM
    #1
    2006 Tundra AC

    2006 Tundra AC [OP] Slowly upgrading my grandfather's old truck

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    Andrew
    Cedar Park, Texas
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    '06 desert sand 4.0 V6
    Alumas, Alcans, TuRD Pro wheels, 285/70/17 Falken
  2. Jan 26, 2021 at 4:09 PM
    #2
    Richid

    Richid New Member

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    I know moog has all those parts pretty cheap. I just replaced the sway bar bushings with polyurethane ones, which is the primary reason to choose aftermarket. The aftermarket parts also usually include design improvements that may not have superseded part #s for OEM.

    Why are you replacing some of those items? rack and pinion boots usually outlast the seals unless a sloppy mechanics has torn them. Replacing the entire LCA is easier than pressing out bushings - and they're cheap.

    If there's a problem with the rack, you should replace it now as you'll need to move it to get the LCA bolts out (from the FSM, I haven't actually tried it).
     
  3. Jan 26, 2021 at 4:34 PM
    #3
    2006 Tundra AC

    2006 Tundra AC [OP] Slowly upgrading my grandfather's old truck

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    Andrew
    Cedar Park, Texas
    Vehicle:
    '06 desert sand 4.0 V6
    Alumas, Alcans, TuRD Pro wheels, 285/70/17 Falken
    @Richid thank you for the quick response. Moog does have good prices, thank you for the recommendation! I am replacing most of these items because I have almost 200k miles on my truck without any upkeep. I am replacing suspension soon so I thought I might as well while I have everything taken apart. The rack and pinion boots are torn, probably from a sloppy mechanic that this truck was taken to by the previous owner. Do you think some of these parts are not necessary to replace?
     
  4. Jan 26, 2021 at 4:34 PM
    #4
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    Arkansas
    Vehicle:
    2000 Limited TRD AC 4X4 Thunder Grey 278k miles. *SOLD* 2019 Limited TRD CM 4x4
    Bilstein 5100's on the forbidden notch Husky HD rear leafs 16x8 Eagle Alloy 187's with 285/75/16 MagnaFlow 3" flow through Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers & trim ARE Mpulse topper - Rhino Vortex rack
    I have had good luck with some Moog parts. The OEM parts that are close in price, go OEM. If there's a big difference between them, go Moog if you need to save the money. The jobs are not fun and are less fun to redo when cheap parts fail. Worth the money to do it once and forget about it for another 100-150k miles.
     
    Richid likes this.
  5. Jan 26, 2021 at 4:44 PM
    #5
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy Working remotely from the local pub

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    North of Boston
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    I’ve only got Moog inner tie rods and stabilizer links. I’m on my 2nd set of links, they didn’t last as long as OEM but were much easier to remove and had a lifetime warranty....now if I only kept the receipt! The ball joints and outer tie rods are OEM. Moog has always been known to one of the better aftermarket manufacturers. I’ve been using them since the 80s.
     
  6. Jan 26, 2021 at 4:45 PM
    #6
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    2000 Limited 4x4 AC
    The only OE suspension part I would NOT use aftermarket is ball joints. Aside from that, I would have no hesitation running a premium aftermarket brand such as moog or NCP (Napa chassis parts).
     
    Richid and w666 like this.
  7. Jan 27, 2021 at 9:20 AM
    #7
    2006 Tundra AC

    2006 Tundra AC [OP] Slowly upgrading my grandfather's old truck

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2020
    Member:
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    Messages:
    178
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Andrew
    Cedar Park, Texas
    Vehicle:
    '06 desert sand 4.0 V6
    Alumas, Alcans, TuRD Pro wheels, 285/70/17 Falken
    @KNABORES @Jack McCarthy @SouthPaw Thank you all for the help. Moog sounds good. I will probably go with them except for ball joints. Hoping to do replace everything this summer!
     
    SouthPaw likes this.
  8. Jan 27, 2021 at 10:12 PM
    #8
    artsr2002

    artsr2002 2005 Tundra DC SR5

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    'Yonder
    Vehicle:
    Red-Maroon-Something 05 DC 4.7 4x2
    Not trying to hijack but I was wondering.....I drove my DC into town for some grub today and it was pretty windy. I'm getting a bit of play in my steering wheel. Had to correct quite a bit while driving straight. When I got home I looked underneath and none of my steering components look worn or loose right off the bat. I started looking more into and found a toyota forum thread about slop in the steering column slip joint shaft or perhaps the tilt wheel mechanism. Toyota Timee(spelling?) had a video on putting a couple of spot welds in the shaft and using a plastic shim on the tilt mechanism. One poster in the thread mentioned trying this on his 05 DC but was unsuccessful. Any ideas?
     
  9. Jan 28, 2021 at 3:55 AM
    #9
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    ‘Somewhere’... a State of Mind
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    Hand Protectors
    Wind will make your truck blow around. Situation Normal if play is less than 1” per FSM.

    Leave your stuff alone.
     
  10. Jan 30, 2021 at 10:40 AM
    #10
    Richid

    Richid New Member

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    I think one of my lowers is bad. Looking through the comments and other research (anecdotal, I know) - I'll take @KNABORES recommendation to go OEM. Looks like they are only$85 ea anyway. I went Moog for the bushings on the front as they were polyurethane instead, but for parts it looks like OEM is the only safe bet - especially for the lowers.
     
  11. Jan 31, 2021 at 6:49 AM
    #11
    2006 Tundra AC

    2006 Tundra AC [OP] Slowly upgrading my grandfather's old truck

    Joined:
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    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Andrew
    Cedar Park, Texas
    Vehicle:
    '06 desert sand 4.0 V6
    Alumas, Alcans, TuRD Pro wheels, 285/70/17 Falken
    @Richid Do you have a link for where you bought your lowers? Those are a good price.
     
  12. Jan 31, 2021 at 6:57 AM
    #12
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
    Check your local Toyota Stealer that participates in the TOY Parts Programme. Shipping is free with a local pick up in my area. OEM Parts are reduced in price and supports local business.
     
  13. Jan 31, 2021 at 12:33 PM
    #13
    Richid

    Richid New Member

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    Yes - my sorta local dealer has this pricing but NOT for pickup, you have to get it shipped from their largest shop. They do VIN verification which is nice too. Some dealers participate, but offer very little discount.

    I go through Boch (https://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/) as I live in the Northeast and they ship from the MA/RI line, so everything is only a day or two away.
     

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