Starting issue, 2017 Limited, 5.7

Looking for help with an initial diagnosis. 2017 Tundra Limited, 5.7. For about a month, sometimes (not every time) when starting, it seems I have to hold the key down a little longer to get the truck to turn over. It's never a dead click. It's always trying to turn over. This is also very intermittent, happening only once out of every 5 to 7 starts. Then today, I turned the key and it was frozen in a cycle of trying to turn over, but not getting there. I had let go of the key, and it kept going on it's own, but never turning over. I turned the key to the off position to stop that cycle. I then turned the key again and it started right up like nothing is wrong. I drove home, shut it off, and started and turned off the truck several times while video recording on my phone, thinking I'd catch it again, but now it's starting like everything is fine. What do you all think? Starter failing? Note, battery is 6 months old, and well above spec for CCA. Of course this happens when I'm supposed to leave on a 10 hour trip friday morning. Thanks in advance.

 

I'd still get a free battery diagnostic, just to rule it out. Otherwise I have no input and will let others chime in.

 

I was thinking battery or possible starter issue. By chance is the truck flex fuel and are you at lower outdoor temps when it happens? There are some starting issues related to flex fuel trucks when in cold weather. This is related to the ethanol percentage creeping up. I can give more info or refer you to a thread on that topic if you are flex and think it sounds like your issue.

 

Here is a question for you, do you have a lot of keys on your Tundra key?
I’ve told that would cause stress on the ignition.

 

Thanks all. It is not a flex fuel. I don't have many keys on the key ring. I was just googling and found a post also saying that a low battery in the key fob can cause an issue with starting, which is news to me. I'll change those out just out of an abundance of caution. I do have an advanced battery tester, and volt meter. I'll do a full diagnostic on the battery, though it seems very unlikely to me that this would be the issue given it's age and spec. Any other ideas appreciated.

 

Well I'll be damned. I ran the full battery diagnostic, and even though the battery was purchased in April, it's only putting 54% CAs. Looks like I'm taking the battery back. In case anyone is curious, it's a Duralast Gold 27 series from Autozone. Now to see if they honor the warranty.

 

At least you lucked out with the easiest fix.

 

We just had this exact issue with the wife's RAV4 this week. Unfortunatley i was not smart enough to venture over to AutoZone for the free battery test. Paid a local shop way to much for diagnostic. Live and Learn !!!
Ended up with the 35 group from Costco.

 

You probably may want to check for parasitic draw during installation.

 

Good call on the parasitic draw idea. Thank you.

 

Yikes, i think i'm in trouble. So I tested and did not find parasitic draw. Replaced battery with new. Tested, everything seemed fine. This morning went to the train station, everything fine. Got back to the train today, and the truck struggled to turn over. See video here :

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rRfmJ2zF2NpcWjX37

When you hear it cycling, trying to turn over, I was not holding the key. I had turned it, and let go. It kept cycling like that as if I was holding the key. Anybody have any ideas here?

Thanks again.

 

Could be fuel pump

 

Sounds like it is cranking well. It’s normal for it to crank until it starts even if you release the key. It’s an automated sequence in the ECU.

after replacing the battery, did you initialize the immobilizer? I believe it cuts fuel to prevent starting.

after battery replacement, before starting, leave the key on the “on” position for about a minute before cranking.

If you have a smart key/push button start, hold the Toyota logo on the key fob to the push button. I believe the sequence is in the owner’s manual, IIRC.

 

Thank you. I did try that with both the key I had been using and my spare, after putting fresh coin batteries in both. I disconnected the battery for 30 min and pump the brake pedal, per another post, just in case my issue is related to that recall about the fuel pump/ecm mapping. I also cleaned the MAF sensor just cuz it was due, and since i had time to kill while the battery was disconnected. Also just put a fresh tank of ethanol free premium/detergent gas in it, and switched to using the spare key fob in case something is wrong with that immobilizer feature in the fob. So far the truck is behaving today and I'm doing a lot of driving with frequent stops. Yeah, i'm just throwing everything at it, i'll admit. Fingers crossed. If it happens again I know it's time to take her in and consult a professional.

 

I would see how many amps your starter is drawing on startup. A battery can only do so much

 

POSSIBLY SOLVED:

I'm providing Update on this, as it may help the many others that seem to develop the "slow start" issue.

I ended up having this go from bad to worse. A week ago the truck went into limp mode, with check engine light on, engine shuddering, and the "traction control off" message. I limped to a service station, they found code P2112, throttle body stuck in closed position. They didn't have a throttle body, but they looked at the replacement procedure. This involved pulling two specific fuses (I believe it was #3 and #12) for 60+ seconds after replacement so that it would erase the current fuel system mapping. The mechanic cleared the codes, and pulled those fuses despite not replacing the throttle body. They did this free of charge. I made the 30 minute drive home, the truck did not go into limp mode again, no errors, etc. I ordered a new throttle body, which came yesterday. I haven't put it in yet. But here's the strange thing: my slow starts are gone. I have had to drive around a lot in the past week, short and long trips, city and highway. I have had no issues. Before this, my slow starts had very much correlated with cold weather. It was 5 degrees with a way-below-zero wind chill this morning and it fired right up instantly. So now I'm wondering if pulling those fuses and clearing the fuel system mapping solved the slow start issue. I'll probably still replace the throttle body out of an abundance of caution, but the truck is running as good as it ever has since this little change.

I'll update again if anything changes.

 

I'm having the same issue and want to try pulling those fuses but they don't seem to be numbered on the chart or map or whatever under the hood. I do see two related to the fuel pump. Do you have any further information and have you had the problem come back for you since resetting the fuel system and replacing the throttle body? Thanks