Spark plug torque spec and anti-sieze?

Doing a first spark plug change on my 2002 tundra. I've searched and can't find the answer...what is the torque spec for a 2002 4.7 spark plug?

I've also found mixed answers on whether to use anti-sieze on the threads. Advice?

Thanks,

 

Torque spec is for threads dry. You risk overtightening using grease or antiseize. Plugs don’t need to be very tight. I personally use antiseize sparingly and tighten just a bit past hand tight.

 

Per my factory Toyota manual: 13 ft-lbs and gapped at .031.

 

On my motorcycle(s) forums, the same question always comes up, and i've wondered too. Anti-seize will change the torque value so always factor that in, but NGK the brand I use a lot, says that their threads don't require any lubricant and it shouldn't be used. As long as my threads are good I don't put any goop on them and I don't use a torque wrench, I just do them by feel. It seems to work fine, even on my air cooled heads that have to get hot they always spin out nicely, and as a bonus no goopy shit collects at the base of the plug. I don't know the answer really, but it seems the spark plug manufactures advise against it. Don't over tighten whatever you do, no ape hands.

 

I’ve never torqued my spark plugs. Once they stop when hand tightening, I give them a snug, probably an 1/8 of a turn or less. I’ve used copper anti-seize on the threads. Can’t go wrong with FSM specs though.

 

Another reason to avoid slathering gobs of anti-seize on the threads is that it is conductive and could work it's way to the oxygen sensors and short them out. I put a tiny dab of it near the top of the threads.

 

Never use antisieze on plugs. Period.

 

Thanks all. 13 ft-lbs is what ill go with, and I'll go without the anti-sieze. I couldn't tell whether any had been used on it previously. There was a liquidy oily coating on some of the threads when I removed the plugs...but not all. It didnt look like anti-sieze so it could have been that they weren't snugged very well and had something blow by. It didn't smell like gas as I would have expected if it were blow by though. Coils are clean.

 

This is not unusual for a combustion engine. Oil is what's lubricating the cylinders, you'll have some miniscule level of pass-by via residual on the cylinder wall being atomized.

The bigger things to look for are whether the plugs themselves appear fouled from oil, running rich, or running lean. These are older style plugs but cover it pretty well. The tip on newer plugs is considerably finer pointed.

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Don't some of todays better plugs come with a light film or coating already on the threads?

Only I time I use never-sneeze is on my outboard that's used primarily in the saltwater . . . I'll take my chances with the downsides vs not being able to get a corroded plug out of the head. LOL

 

NGK makes it sound like it's some sort of plating that's on their plug threads and advise against any anti-seize. It seems to be so, I follow that direction and the plugs spin out fine with no damage to the threads. I think most of the problems people have with stripped / damaged plug holes, is over tightening.

 

Ehhh I literally use the smallest amount. I'll let y'all know if I run into issues with my NGK's lol

it's probably around the 20k mark on these so I guess I'll let you know what my plugs look like here in a month or so.

 

An electrician told me never to use the copper anti-seize in contact with aluminum.

 

I use copper anti-seize on my BMW airhead exhaust threads. Good stuff for high temp applications.