1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Something a local mechanic said...."pressing out the ball joints."

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Bought2Pull, Aug 9, 2024.

  1. Aug 9, 2024 at 8:52 PM
    #1
    Bought2Pull

    Bought2Pull [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120430
    Messages:
    136
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    WV
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra 4 door
    I don't know much about lower ball joints, except that I should get OEM Toyota units and get those installed before I start using my new-to-me Tundra with 200,000 miles.

    A mechanic I spoke with today talked about how hard those were to replace. He spoke of those having to be "pressed out" and the proper press did not exist. How he would "weld on a ring for that task then grind that off."

    These units I have been advised to get from Toyota, do those need to be pressed in or out? Are those instead whole units that avoid the need for a press?
     
  2. Aug 9, 2024 at 10:37 PM
    #2
    Diablo169

    Diablo169 ROKRAPR

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2021
    Member:
    #59576
    Messages:
    661
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Max
    Santa Cruz
    Vehicle:
    06 Double Cab 350k+
    2” Lift, Bilstein 5100’s and 885’s, Rear 5100’s Icon 3 Leaf Pack and Firestone Air Bags with Daystar Cradles. Spider Trax 1.25” Wheel Spacers, Factory Wheels wrapped with Toyo 285/70r17 AT2’s.
    It’s a pretty simple job, no welding required. A C type ball joint press easily pops out the upper ball joint. The upper is pressed into the knuckle.
     
  3. Aug 9, 2024 at 11:23 PM
    #3
    Bought2Pull

    Bought2Pull [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120430
    Messages:
    136
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    WV
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra 4 door
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2024
  4. Aug 10, 2024 at 12:26 AM
    #4
    jerryallday

    jerryallday New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2021
    Member:
    #57084
    Messages:
    921
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jerry
    Pasadena, Ca
    Vehicle:
    2006 DC SR5 V8 Grey
    6112 lift, Camburg UCA, 17 methods on 33inch Ko2 tires
    HBTundra likes this.
  5. Aug 10, 2024 at 2:43 AM
    #5
    bfunke

    bfunke Tundra Curmudgeon

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2019
    Member:
    #37321
    Messages:
    2,058
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bryan
    South Carolina
    Vehicle:
    2018 SR-5 CM 5.7, 2000 SR-5 AC 4.7L
    Don’t use that mechanic.
     
    Weagle, BroHon, HBTundra and 9 others like this.
  6. Aug 10, 2024 at 6:39 AM
    #6
    shifty`

    shifty` counting and breathing, disappearing in the fade

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2020
    Member:
    #48239
    Messages:
    24,315
    ATL
    Vehicle:
    '06 AC Limited V8/4WD
    (see signature for truck info)
    Mechanic is either full of shit, or talking about the uppers (or confusing lowers & uppers).

    You really probably don't need to replace the uppers. All the stress in our front suspension rides on the lowers, which is why they're the ones you hear everyone talk about. As long as they're not dry, and show no symptoms of wear ...

    Uppers are a bitch to press out. You'll find a way with a decent kit. Based on what the mechanic said, I think he's aware there's no silver bullet to press them out.
     
    FishNinja likes this.
  7. Aug 10, 2024 at 8:24 AM
    #7
    Bought2Pull

    Bought2Pull [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120430
    Messages:
    136
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    WV
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra 4 door
    After some thought, it appears he's confused the upper and lower ball joints.

    That video I've linked above, is that accurate in your experience, as to the difficulty of the job?

    See if that video is what I can expect, I'll replace my own lower ball joints. :cool:
     
  8. Aug 10, 2024 at 8:48 AM
    #8
    des2mtn

    des2mtn Too full to swallow my pride

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2020
    Member:
    #48721
    Messages:
    4,170
    SW
    Vehicle:
    2004 Black DC Limited 4x4
    Tonto cover
    That video mostly covers it. I don't use a hammer to hit mine out, but I use a pitman arm puller instead. Effortless for me.

    Watch this video as he goes over a puller tool kit, then shows how to use a pitman arm puller on both the tie rod end and the LBJ. Some auto parts stores have these tool kits to rent out. You can also use a pickle fork.

    https://www.youtube.com/embed/bfLvtEnX9qk?start=242&wmode=opaque
     
  9. Aug 10, 2024 at 8:55 AM
    #9
    Mr.bee

    Mr.bee King Turdra

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2022
    Member:
    #79178
    Messages:
    6,427
    Gender:
    Male
    SATX
    Vehicle:
    '02 AC TRD
    Pickle fork will ruin the boots on the TRE, and tou have to unbolt the brake shield so you can move it to run the picklefork in perpendicular to the tire. I didnt have any luck trying from behind the spindle.
     
  10. Aug 10, 2024 at 10:28 AM
    #10
    jerryallday

    jerryallday New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2021
    Member:
    #57084
    Messages:
    921
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jerry
    Pasadena, Ca
    Vehicle:
    2006 DC SR5 V8 Grey
    6112 lift, Camburg UCA, 17 methods on 33inch Ko2 tires
    IMG_8327.png Here are some torque specs and instruction I wrote for myself like 4 years ago. Excuse the typos and grammar
     
    G_unit3000, woods and Bought2Pull[OP] like this.
  11. Aug 10, 2024 at 12:01 PM
    #11
    shifty`

    shifty` counting and breathing, disappearing in the fade

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2020
    Member:
    #48239
    Messages:
    24,315
    ATL
    Vehicle:
    '06 AC Limited V8/4WD
    (see signature for truck info)
    Ditto all this ^^

    It truly was a painless experience.
     
  12. Aug 11, 2024 at 3:56 AM
    #12
    FishNinja

    FishNinja HIDE YOUR DAUGHTERS

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2024
    Member:
    #109562
    Messages:
    1,778
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Lee
    TEXAN....big surprise
    Vehicle:
    06DC2wd
    LOLLLLLLL

    fuck that mechanic. Even the fact that he got them Confused would be a red flag. To me, that means he possibly misses the details and "small things"

    but yea the lower ball joints is 4 bolts, the castle nut and cotter pin.

    Get new bolts (they like to sheer)

    the new lower ball joint will come with a new castle nut and usually the cotter pin falls out of the bag so grab a pack from the auto parts store.

    As stated above, I'd stay away from the big fucking hammer for separating the ball joint from the lower control arm. Pitman arm pulled 100%. Even those 3 armed pulley pullers can work (that's what I personally used)
     
  13. Aug 11, 2024 at 7:59 AM
    #13
    Mr Badwrench

    Mr Badwrench New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2018
    Member:
    #17205
    Messages:
    1,223
    Gender:
    Male
    I've never been able to find a puller or fork that wouldn't tear the grease boot. I use a version of the hammer method, just not like in the video above.

    Spray pb blaster (wd 40 whatever) on the lower control arm for two week prior to replacing the ball joint. Put some upward force on the threaded stud with a jack (castle nut to protect threads), back up the lower control arm with a 3lbs hammer and lightly but firmly strike the front of it with the flat side of a ball peen hammer. You don't have to "hit it with your purse" hard, just give it a firm, square strike and it will pop out. If you feel like you are hitting too hard, then put your tools down and reassess.
     
    AresEsMaLo likes this.
  14. Aug 11, 2024 at 8:56 AM
    #14
    Bought2Pull

    Bought2Pull [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120430
    Messages:
    136
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    WV
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra 4 door
    Great information guys, I really appreciate it. I may go buy a puller but I can also see the benefit of just using a hammer with castle nut on there.

    Not sure when I get to this job but I expect to do so in a couple of weeks.

    I'm short on cash and like to learn new things + overcome challenges, definitely want to do this.
     
    woods likes this.
  15. Aug 12, 2024 at 9:13 AM
    #15
    Bought2Pull

    Bought2Pull [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120430
    Messages:
    136
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    WV
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra 4 door
    Very happy! Just ordered the left and right lower ball joints from Orisman (Toyota of Richmond). Got the bolts too plus a couple of extras as I'll be doing this job in the backyard not the driveway.

    :bananadance: :broccoli:
     
    87warrior likes this.
  16. Aug 12, 2024 at 9:18 AM
    #16
    shifty`

    shifty` counting and breathing, disappearing in the fade

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2020
    Member:
    #48239
    Messages:
    24,315
    ATL
    Vehicle:
    '06 AC Limited V8/4WD
    (see signature for truck info)
    Make sure you flip the castle nut upside down and get it near-flush with the stud, for three reasons: One, you'll damage the flares on the nut otherwise and two, you'll offer a wider, flatter surface to land the hammer on, and three, if anything drops suddenly, the nut being threaded down a bit should help catch the part nicely.
     
  17. Aug 12, 2024 at 9:39 AM
    #17
    Bought2Pull

    Bought2Pull [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120430
    Messages:
    136
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    WV
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra 4 door
    Thanks man, I appreciate that bit of advice. Hope to get onto this project just as soon as I can, mowing and weather permitting!
     
  18. Aug 14, 2024 at 12:38 PM
    #18
    Bought2Pull

    Bought2Pull [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120430
    Messages:
    136
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    WV
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra 4 door
    Was hoping to do this today but still recovering from what I think is food poison. I worked yesterday but think I should take it easy today since I was up literally up all night last night.

    Next week is the plan now.
     
  19. Aug 30, 2024 at 5:29 PM
    #19
    Spike77777

    Spike77777 New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2021
    Member:
    #65815
    Messages:
    19
    Gender:
    Male
    2000 Limited Bilstein shocks, mild lift 1" front and 3/4" block rear. 17" Stock wheels from later model Tundra with 275/70/17
    I just change my upper and lower with OEM, the only thing you need to press out on the bottom is from the LCA. The new one is just 4 bolts and I'd suggest getting new OEM replacments and the nut to tighten the ball back on.
    The upper on the other hand needs to be pressed out the UCA, clip removed and ball pressed out, then the new one pressed back in with a new "C" clip and tightened back on the UCA.
    The lower is easy but I wanted to make sure after 98k so replaced both.The upper a little more difficult but if you rent the press with the right cups it's not bad, I ended up using my large socket set in place of a cup from the kit.
     
  20. Aug 30, 2024 at 7:57 PM
    #20
    ScenicRoute

    ScenicRoute New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2021
    Member:
    #57970
    Messages:
    757
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tim
    Vehicle:
    2021 Tundra CM Nightshade
    Eibach stage 2 (JUNK), SmartCap, Airbags, CoachBuilder Stuff, Bora spacers, 35” falken AT3W tires.
    I helped my son do his a year or two ago. Nothing remarkable stands out from the project that I can recall.
     
  21. Aug 30, 2024 at 10:26 PM
    #21
    Bought2Pull

    Bought2Pull [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120430
    Messages:
    136
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    WV
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra 4 door
    Thanks man. I think this mechanic was confused and was thinking about something else.

    I've since bought the OEM parts and once I get a chance, I plan to do this job myself.
     
    Pig Rig likes this.
  22. Sep 17, 2024 at 1:43 PM
    #22
    Bought2Pull

    Bought2Pull [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120430
    Messages:
    136
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    WV
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra 4 door
    Tomorrow looks to be the day......

    Renting a front end puller kit from O'Reilly's here in a few minutes.
     
  23. Sep 17, 2024 at 1:48 PM
    #23
    shifty`

    shifty` counting and breathing, disappearing in the fade

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2020
    Member:
    #48239
    Messages:
    24,315
    ATL
    Vehicle:
    '06 AC Limited V8/4WD
    (see signature for truck info)
    Don't hesitate to pull the knuckle if needed! I found it so much easier. But you'll need an impact and proper sized larger socket to pound it off once the wheel is off.

    I recommend printing out the torque spec sheets, here are some images to use for 2005-2006, in reply #24: https://www.tundras.com/threads/torque-specs.53443/#post-3353761

    NOTE: Those torque specs show 59ftlb for the LBJ bolts. That is apparently a typo, and high, but it's what many of us here have used with OEM bolts, with good success. I used blue Loctite along with that 59ftlb torque number.
     
  24. Sep 18, 2024 at 8:47 PM
    #24
    Bought2Pull

    Bought2Pull [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120430
    Messages:
    136
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    WV
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra 4 door
    Shifty, thanks for those specs.

    OK, here is where we are at....I "rented" (actually bought but have a week to return it for a full refund) a universal ball joint press kit from O'Reilly Auto as Advance and Napa didn't have it. I don't care for how big it is and it looks nothing like the tools in the embedded video. I still plan to give it a go tomorrow assuming it doesn't rain.

    I got a Zoro.com coupon today with 20% off on the same OTC kit in the video embedded above. I just now ordered that kit and got $33.00 off. No idea on when it'll get here but if I can't get things apart with the hammers and the press I rented, I'll give that a go.

    I wanted to do the job today but my dad wanted me to pick up a mower for him and bring it to his house and that took longer than expected. On top of that it finally rained a bit today....enough to keep me from trying today.

    Tomorrow?
     
    shifty` likes this.
  25. Oct 30, 2024 at 4:10 PM
    #25
    Bought2Pull

    Bought2Pull [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120430
    Messages:
    136
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    WV
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra 4 door
    OK, about to start.....today is finally the day!

    Just been too busy, bad weather, too cold, etc.

    Reviewing torque specs and videos now.

    Bought an OTC puller kit some weeks ago.

    ***
    OK, here is where we are:

    Driver's side LBJ is off! Wow the 4 small bolts were crazy tight! I had a 15 inch breaker bar on those WITH a 3 foot cheater bar. The breaker bar was beginning to flex! BOOM! Broke free. Others were tight but not that tight.

    LBJ nut was definitely not at 105 foot pounds....maybe 20 foot pounds?

    Should I be able to hold the LBJ in one hand and easily move its bolt with the other?

    ****
    Bad news: puller slipped, didn't notice it, managed to screw up some outer tie rod threads. Used a different puller, not the one suggested in the video above, came off easy.

    The bushing seems pretty far gone anyway...how hard is it to remove and replace an outer tie rod?

    Would I also have to replace the passenger side tie rod as well?
     
    KNABORES likes this.
  26. Oct 30, 2024 at 5:12 PM
    #26
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2020
    Member:
    #40572
    Messages:
    11,314
    Gender:
    Male
    Arkansas
    Vehicle:
    2000 Limited TRD AC 4X4 Thunder Grey 272k miles. 2019 Limited TRD CM 4x4 - SOLD
    Bilstein 5100's 16x8 589's with 265/75/16 and 1.25" spacers Flowmaster 50 series over the axle dump Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers & trim ARE topper - Rhino Vortex rack
    Outer tie rods are easy to swap, loosen the set nut and spin the outer tie rod off after separating it from the LBJ. Install new in reverse order, get alignment. If the driver's is wore out, might as well swap the passenger's as well.
     
  27. Oct 30, 2024 at 5:20 PM
    #27
    Bought2Pull

    Bought2Pull [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120430
    Messages:
    136
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    WV
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra 4 door
    Thanks man.

    I've been reading the Bible just about every day this year and it's helped me trust Him a lot more when things go wrong. When I messed up those threads I didn't get upset, I just jokingly said "now God why did you let me do that?" but I knew that He let that happen so I could replace that part, get experience using a puller, and end up with a better truck. The delay in ordering another part isn't going to affect things one bit.

    Today was the first time I'd ever used a puller on anything. :cool:
     
    ChesterTundra and KNABORES like this.
  28. Oct 30, 2024 at 5:29 PM
    #28
    shifty`

    shifty` counting and breathing, disappearing in the fade

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2020
    Member:
    #48239
    Messages:
    24,315
    ATL
    Vehicle:
    '06 AC Limited V8/4WD
    (see signature for truck info)
    If you buy the same part number that’s installed, you can use a paint marker to mark your thread/nut position where the OTR meets the ITR, then thread the new identical OTR to that same spot and you should be near identical on alignment. You may be able to do it with different part also. Either way I’d get an alignment if it was truly mangled. But before I even considered replacing it, I’d break out my small file kit and try cleaning up the damaged threads! I’ve salvaged many a thread in my lifetime and saved myself a gaggle of hassled. Work smarter, not harder.
     
    BluegrapeVr6 and Bought2Pull[OP] like this.
  29. Oct 30, 2024 at 7:42 PM
    #29
    Bought2Pull

    Bought2Pull [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2024
    Member:
    #120430
    Messages:
    136
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    WV
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra 4 door
    I forgot where I would go for the part numbers but I was planning to call Ourisman Toyota of Richmond, VA tomorrow. That's where I got my LBJs from. I assume I could just ask and the parts guy would know what to send.

    Dad thinks he can fix those threads, be worth it to watch him go.

    I had thought about counting the number of exposed threads, get an OEM part, see if I could get close. It's going in the shop this fall for a timing belt and new CV axle anyway.......alignment inbound.

    My first time using a puller....learning experience. (And in my case, anerobic workout!)
     
    shifty` and FrenchToasty like this.
  30. Oct 31, 2024 at 4:25 AM
    #30
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2021
    Member:
    #64346
    Messages:
    2,413
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Nick
    KY
    Vehicle:
    01 Tundra V8 4X4 AC SR5 TRD
    You're going to have to un-bolt the ball joint to do that job, that would be a great thing to do right now while it's apart.
     
    kentuckyMarksman likes this.

Products Discussed in

To Top