SOLVED! Slow speed drivers window

I think it's time to replace both the regulator and motor. Window tilts forward and is extremely slow, even stops sometimes.
Tried lubing tracts and cleaning everything involved. No dice.
Has anyone replaced theirs on a DC? Got any recommendations on aftermarket brands? Factory is highly over priced.
Also if you have done this with aftermarket did you have to cut the connector off the old? Seems that is an issue. Thanks!

 

Talk to @NickB_01TRD : https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1297#post-2697144

There's one other member who sourced a non-Aisin part off scAmazon and it worked, soldered in, I think? But I can't find the post.

 

Rockauto has Aisin brand for both the truck, and the car. I'd got with Aisin as it's what I put in the virus

 

I recently replaced my driver's side window motor + regulator as the motor stopped working. Used the Aisin window + regulator assembly from RockAuto, it's plug and play. The whole assembly is cheaper than the motor or regulator on their own. It works great, much faster than before. Now I am tempted to replace the passenger side as well just so they're the same speed, haha.

 

I was wondering if my windows were slowing down. I thought it was all in my head.

 

I think you 2 are lucky, having non Double cabs I think your options are better. I can't even find a regulator on rock auto, not even an option. F me...

 

Gimme a few to shake down the OEM part number so you can plug that into the RA site...

 

For DC 2006, here's the parts page for you to verify these numbers are correct with your own eyes, since I could be mistaken.

I'm a bit confused, so you may want to ping a dealership. The 1st link to Front Door shows two part numbers for the front motor/regulator. The 2nd link, for rear door, shows both rear and front motor/regulator, but the fronts are universal and there are two diff't part numbers. Weird. Actually, the regulator is just the scissor arm. But in that case, I can't find the damn motor for rear then.

Front door: https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2...DOOR-WINDOW-REGULATOR--HINGE/841420-6754.html
Rear door: https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2...DOOR-WINDOW-REGULATOR--HINGE/841420-6757.html

From the front door parts page:

Power Window Motor (Right, Front)

Part Number: 857100C060
Supersession(s): 85710-0C060
​

Power Window Motor (Left, Front)

Part Number: 8572034030
Supersession(s): 85720-34030
​

From the rear door parts page:

Window Regulator (Right, Rear)

Part Number: 698030C020
Supersession(s): 69803-0C020​

Window Regulator (Left, Rear)

Part Number: 698040C020
Supersession(s): 69804-0C020​

Power Window Motor (Left, Right, Front)

Part Number: 85710AE010
Supersession(s): 85710-AE010; 8571035180​

Power Window Motor (Left, Right, Front)

Part Number: 85720AE010
Supersession(s): 85720-AE010; 8572035140​

 

Best bet is probably to pop the door card off, take the part number off the existing motor and seek out a replacement that way, if I'm being honest.

 

On my Sequoia which is basically the same door as the double cab, my driver motor was really slow, I opened up the motor and lubricated the gear drive thing in there and it has been good for over a year. That was after I replaced the regulator and track with brand new OEM which did nothing.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...erior,window+regulator+&+motor+assembly,15596

I was able to find window motors and regulator assemblies on Rock Auto for your 06 DC. It's located under Interior, see link above.

 

Hmmm. I'll keep this in mind if a new track and regulator don't do the trick. Mine lurches forward like alignment/ track has too much play. Almost like something is binding.

Dude thanks a bunch. My dumb ass was looking in electrical. Face palming my self ....now. Thanks!

@shifty` thanks to you too! I'll report back and comparison after I get this figured out!

 

Anytime my guy. I used this video during install and found it helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P31RCJQ6OxQ

 

Unfortunately it shows the only left side one is without the track? It's pictured at all with the "x". We shall see if the little feet that glide in the track will go on to this new part..

 

I'm not sure what you mean regarding the track. But all of these regulators "scissor" out, that picture you posted above is of the "scissor" fully compressed down. It will extend like in the other photos. See this link below for the Aisin part (which personally I would use), it shows the regulator extended upwards more:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11348037&cc=1432861&pt=15596&jsn=15

 

I figured it was just closed but thought it was weird that every other one, though they weren't for the drivers of a double cab showed it with the 2 tracks the scissors glide in... trying to avoid getting an incorrect part or whatever.
I'm not seeing on the 1 you just posted that it shows what side it's for. But if I punch it in to Toyota it shows right side. Wtf am I missing?

 

As @shifty` linked above I replaced mine on my AC with Aisin parts.
I apparently forgot to take pictures when I did that. I had an arm that was very bent causing allignment issues and had to close the window by pushing on it from the outside.

 

Bought the Aisin regulator and a dorman? Motor from RA. Even though the motor I thought I purchased says it is to OEM/ exceeds yada yada it wasn't gonna work. I did replace the regulator though.
After replacing the regulator ( sort of a tricky fuck) as it's not exactly the same but not rocket science. I tested the window. At first it was exactly the same, slow in the same spot then smooth. After pushing in on the door some while rolling up and down it seemed to be a touch better. Sprayed some lithium spray in the tracks, was in a pinch thought I had silicone but didn't. That did seem to help. Way better than before but just can't figure out what exactly is the damn problem. I'm thinking a combination of 2 things? This regulator that I replaced and dirty shitty tracks in need of lube. The old regulator had to be part of it unless it was made this fucked up but I find that hard to believe.

 

Just an update as I'm still struggling with a window that's about the same but seems to shift forward more when rolling down. Going to trouble shoot some more here after a while.
I replaced the regulator but couldn't use the motor as it has a 2 pin connector. Went through the b.s. on RA website....blah blah. After calling the manufacturer of the part it turns out that the motor is for a regular cab or access cab. So if you order part #471103 Cardone for your DC it ain't gon fit! Waiting on a reply from RA lack luster or lack of CS.

 

I went through the AC/RC vs. DC regulator thing recently searching parts for someone else. Or was it on this thread? I forget. I also saw the parts were diff. That's why I reco'd contacting the dealership, I think. If you have the OEM replacement p/n, it's easier to find the aftermarket comparison. Even if OEM is discontinued.

 

I swore I did cross reference them. Maybe I started to then got sideways reading all the shit on RA with all the info and lack of DC drivers side. They still have it wrong on the site so hopefully it fixes it on their end to not inconvenience another person.

I don't think that's the problem anyhow. The window lurches forward right at the top when coming down. Either something is extremely worn inside or it's loose? Gonna put syl-glide in door internal tracks maybe that'll do it. Fuckin hope so. Regulator is new motor is slow (maybe that's from whatever is the culprit) but still works.

 

Sil-glyde from Napa worked fuckin' wonders! Essentially greased all of the felt channels that the windows ride in. Roll up the The window after greasing then roll it down regrease again just to spread the product through the channel. It can be messy but it does the trick. As I had the front door panel off to inspect things. I was able to do the lower tracks inside the door but with the other doors I just did the upper part and let the window spread it down as it was rolling down. The lurching on my window is very minimal at this point compared to what it was. I still think maybe that the drivers and passengers front window motors probably are weak so I will likely replace them. I will update after I get the new drivers door motor from RockAuto. All in all everything is much smoother. No drag like before about 4 inches down. Before I forget, it's not a bad idea to clean the channels. Prior to applying the glide I used paper towels in a window cleaning spray to get the gunk out of there.

 

I ordered a fuel filter for my 95 4cyl Tacoma from them and what I got was a v6 fuel filter and it, of course didn't fit. Sent them a message and they refunded my money, told me to keep the part, and took that filter out of the 4cyl section. That was 5 or so years ago though.

 

So I thought I had this whole the ng fixed with the sly-gluyde shit. Apparently that was a band-aid. Dug in deeper today as I had a little rattle manifesting and driving me nuts.
Got to tinkering around in there, pulled the glass out to see better at what I thought may be the problem without taking pass door panel off to compare. Turns out I have found the problem because the regulator and motor move just fine without the glass in. Rubber in the track torn assuming it's allowing it to grab with grime and dirt and bind up in the track and it all makes sense with the picture. Just need to see. If I can track this part down now.

 

Is there a part number in any of the corners of that? Should be molded into the molded joint either in top left corner or smaller corner at the front of the door. Good find!

If that part, is what I think it is, it will most likely be made here at my factory in service area #1

 

Upside: That part is available, at least it was for mine. Additionally, installing a new one supposedly fixes the window-rattles-when-2/3-closed-or-less problem. It'll be cool to hear you confirm the latter.
Downside: It's pretty gd expensive.

 

I didn't wanna pull it all the way out until I had another one because of the stiff part closest to the b-pillar. Seems like once you deform.it it doesn't wanna go back to original shape.
Where do you work? I assume I can't order from there lol.

 

Yeah, I looked briefly before bed and it said (without double cab) so hopefully I can't hunt one down this morning. I'm just stoked I found it after dealing with RA bullshit with the motor and regulator. Turns out I don't need their lack of customer service for now lol.
IDC how much it costs if fixes everything. Driving me nuts getting things all greasy trying to lube the tracks etc is worth a hundo or so if I don't have to remove that damn door card again.

 

Yeah, RC/AC windows shaped different than the DC, so you'll need the part with Double Cab, or lacking "without double cab" language. There is another parts system you can use for exploded diagrams, I'd need to dig a little bit to pull it up. It's the one linked to PartSouq or something, I think. Or the Russians. EDIT: Yep it was the Russians. Give this part lookup tool a shot using your VIN (VIN = "Frame number"): https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/

Once inside you'll want to pick Body and Interior.

​

Then Front Door Panel and Glass

​

Then click the 2nd pic and choose from the parts in it.

​

It gives you a part number when you click the links to the right of the picture, OR if you click the actual part reference number inside the exploded diagram.

​

 

I work in a factory that does automotive sealing and made weatherstripping back in the say for the Tundra