Shuttering under heavy braking

The last couple months I have noticed that once my brakes are warmed up, (after a new stops) that there is a good bit if shaking. I mean the steering wheel and seats shaking. Not just under heavy braking but slower stops as well. To me that has always meant my rotars are warped. But it doesn't happen the first few stops. I guess the rotars could deform as they heat up. Is there a recall or TSB for this? I have the platinum warranty so if so it should be covered. Anyone else have this issue.
I will say that I have not pulled the wheels off or inspected my pads. I have 38k miles on the truck, mostly short drives, very little towing.

 

Watch this video. It is about wheel spacers, wheels and rotors. The guy goes into great detail on things that cause wheel and brake vibrations. The only thing I would add to this person‘s video would be to torque the wheels off the ground at 30 foot pounds like he says, place the wheels on the ground and increase by 25 foot pounds. Roll the truck back-and-forth, repeat until the correct torque spec is reached. Clean mounting surfaces on the rotors, hubs, wheels and proper wheel torque is a must.

Have fun out there and drive safe

 

Thanks, I didn't even think to check the lugs, I did a rotation about 3k miles ago and retorqued after 500 or so miles. I still can't get my mind away from my rotars being warped though.

 

My truck does the exact same thing.

I had the rotors turned at Oriellys and it calmed it down for a few days. After that the symptoms came back just like before.

I plan on replacing the rotors and pads soon. Sucks too cause the pads have tons of life left in them which is why I haven’t put it as a high priority thing.

 

After reading your comments, I can see that adding a wheel spacer between the rotor and rim doubles the mounting surfaces that must be perfectly mated. This torquing process sounds like it’s designed to reduce the possibility.
If there were, even a minor imperfection, cause by uneven mating surfaces or, say different torque on one part of the mating surfaces vs another, this might not show up under low stress conditions, but with heavy braking, that much more tension is placed upon the mated surfaces. This could cause a bit flex and movement, that could feel like a shimmy.
the Most common cause would be the rotors, but this could cause movement as well.
I just replaced my brakes and rotors and mated new wheel spacers to new rotors for that reason and so far don't have that issue, but this conversation reminds me me its time to check the lug nuts.

 

Mine is a 2018 with 13K and I just started noticing it on mine as well. Thought maybe it was just my luck with the rotors, but appears to be something else. I'll check my lugs, just in case.

 

(1) Inspect and clean all mounting surfaces. It may be necessary to remove rotors to inspect hub surface to be absolutely sure, but I would try step (2) below before removing rotors.

(2) Torque wheel lug nuts to specified torque in two to three steps in a "star" pattern using a quality torque wrench. Unlikely you need to follow the full technique of the video unless you have spacers, but the first torque step should be with the wheel OFF the ground (insures best chance at "centering" the lug nuts).

(3) If you still have shudder, you will probably have to replace rotors. Unless the surface is extremely rough, turning is typically a waste of money. Turning removes material from the rotor making warping more likely when the casting design is "light". Shops do it to increase the bill and guarantee best result on brake job. Brake pads quickly conform to mild phonograph surface.

 

Funny seeing this thread show up. I just picked up my truck from the body shop after 6 weeks of it being repaired. Had to make a hard stop and thought the wheels were falling off. Such a violent vibration throughout the whole truck, steering wheel etc. I will check the lug torque specs. I only have 25k on the clock and the vibration is random. Wasn't there before sitting at body shop.

 

Toyota's seem prone to rotor warping imo. It never was a problem on my 86 4Runner, but that was before the days of fleet fuel efficiency.

I first observed rotor warping on my wife's new 97 Avalon. After demonstrating how her anti-lock brakes worked, mild shudder was observed afterward. Stupidly ironic, but I concluded that hard braking in that instance was the cause. Maybe the guys at the body shop drove your truck like they stole it?

Turning the front rotors did successfully cure the problem on the Avalon. Warped rotors are such a common complaint with Tundras, I would try torquing the lug nuts and save the cash instead of rotor turning, but that's just me.

 

DUDE! If this is on an insurance claim for repair I would recommend going back and telling them!
If they are at all reputable they will contact your insurance and have it sent somewhere to diagnose and/or replace the brakes. They'll probably want to replace the rotors only but I would show up with some new OE pads and have them put on at the same time.
Remember, after a collision the repair is done to return the truck back to pre collision state.

 

My wife's Lexus RX 350 does the same thing.smooth until you get the brakes hot then shake you to pieces. I'm going to turn the rotors and see how long it takes to warp again.

 

Pretty common tho mostly on the 1st gens. Toyota has seemingly underbraked most of their trucks anyways. Going to 4 wheel disc has helped immensly. I had it start on my 14 after towing and having to panic stop. I got Baer drilled and slotted rotors for mine and have had no issues since