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Shocks and struts

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by kjeffer, May 2, 2025 at 5:50 AM.

  1. May 2, 2025 at 5:50 AM
    #1
    kjeffer

    kjeffer [OP] New Member

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    Ken
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    2011 Toyota Tundra
    2011 Toyota Tundra sr 5 4 wheel drive 5.7 liter v8
    I have a 2011 sr5 4 wheel drive with 170000 miles on it. I never have replaced struts or shocks.
    Should i replace front and back or just front? It makes a little noise sometimes when the truck bounces up or down. Not sure they need changing.

    also what brand shock and strut would u recommend? Thanks
     
  2. May 2, 2025 at 6:04 AM
    #2
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    Calibrated Power 5 Tune pack, Allison 1000 tune, PPE deep trans pan, Cold/Hot CAC pipes, Banks CAI, PCV reroute, resonator delete, S&B 62 gal fuel tank, B&W GN hitch
    Depending on use, most shocks/coilovers/struts should last 50-70k miles. You are most likely a little overdue.

    Bilstein 4600 is a really nice riding shock for your truck.

    The clunking could be the rubber in the shock ends worn out or ball joints. Might want to inspect those as well (lover and upper).
     
  3. May 2, 2025 at 6:19 AM
    #3
    kjeffer

    kjeffer [OP] New Member

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    2011 Toyota Tundra sr 5 4 wheel drive 5.7 liter v8
    So does the bilstein include the strut as well or are struts separate? I dont know much. Thanks
     
  4. May 2, 2025 at 6:43 AM
    #4
    EmergencyMaximum

    EmergencyMaximum New Member

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    I replaced mine around 130k miles. on the rear end. Put gabriel whites in from rockauto. Barely any difference in ride. I think they're oem alike. Also, they felt just like the old ones I took out. Perhaps old ones were still in good shape. No leaks, just high frequency giddy felt like it lasted a little longer before settling in. Gabriels came with everything included for a swapout.
     
  5. May 2, 2025 at 6:55 AM
    #5
    blenton

    blenton New Member

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    I’d replace them for sure. But that’s me. Bilsteins are a great option, though the 5100’s would be my choice if not looking to spend a ton. They are very similar to the 4600 (some would say identical except the paint job) but I’ve found the 5100’s to ride just a bit better.

    The rear shocks are very simple to swap out: bottom bolt, top nut, keep track of the bushing and washer order and orientation. Reassemble in reverse. Easiest to do with the frame on Jack stands and the rear axle drooped. Though, since you have a pile of miles, the top nut might fight you as the shock shock can spin in the shock body and it can be difficult to remove. Vise grips can help as a last resort.

    Front coilover assemblies must be removed from the vehicle and disassembled, the new shock absorber swapped in, then reassembled using the coil spring and top hat assembly and reinstalled. The process is pretty straightforward but be very careful with the compressed spring energy. A good spring compressor is a must. If you are able to remove the coilover assembly, you can take it to a local shop to have the shock absorber swapped out. They usually charge an hour for both sides if you have them off the vehicle. Then simply reinstall them on your truck.

    Be aware that suspension can be quite the rabbit hole to fall down. A plethora of shock options to choose from… haha.
     

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