Shakes and poor ride after rear lift

When I got my truck 07 CM 4x4 200k miles, 10 months ago it already had a 2.5" leveling kit in the front. Last month I installed some 2" blocks in the rear (tapered and made for tundras). Since then the ride has just seemed terrible. Bouncy all the time and a slight case of the shakes 10-70mph.

(possible important note: I took the passengers side coil all the way out before I realized there was already a front lift. Installed it as it was).

Have had it aligned twice, and the tires balanced. Still a terrible ride.

The guy who balanced my tires claims some of my tires are out of round (less than 2 years old) brand name tires.

I tried adding 3/4" of spacers to driveshaft bearing today thinking that was going to be the silver bullet. Nope, might have helped a bit, but still shaking.

I am close to buying some new u-bolts and going back to stock height in the back at this point. Sucks you're not supposed to re-use u-bolts or I would have swapped them already, but I can't be spending a bunch of money going back and forth on u-bolts.

 

Blocks do ride rough as hell. I've been down that road. Toytec had the best price when I replaced my ubolts.

 

Blocks ride harder. Did you swap out the rear shocks for extended travel shocks now that you are lifted in the rear? Stock shocks are not meant for any lift, so they are not working as designed. Generally tundras also need a carrier bearing drop when the rear is lifted. Not having that will cause vibrations, especially at take off.

If tires are out of round- will ride and handle like crap have have vibrations. Lastly, too high of air pressure will cause a rough ride.

Based on what you describe, seems like a tire problem.

 

Did not touch the shocks. If I can get the vibration figured out I'll replace them. I'm also leaning towards the out of round tires but it just is surprising that the symptoms appeared right after the new rear lift. The only thing I could think of is maybe a band snapped when I had it aligned and the Firestone boys aired them up to like 45psi.

 

Did you put the blocks in facing the right direction? They are tapered, the fatter end faces the rear.

If they are backwards you will get major driveshaft vibration.

 

lol yes, and I double checked them 3 times out of paranoia

 

Take a good picture if the blocks and post it here.

The only way youre getting vibration after installing blocks is if the driveshaft angle is off.

 

I have 3" blocks, i cant tell a difference in the ride compared to stock.

 

I will tomorrow morning. The other thing I did was mess with the front passenger side coil. Had it all the way out but put it back in how it was (or so I think)

 

Thinking the same. I need to see this block.

 

If you mean removing the whole front shock assembly, that only goes back in one way. The only thing you could mess up is the alignment if you turned the alignment cam bolts, but your alignment guy should have found it if there was a problem.

I still think the blocks are wrong somehow. Tires out of round is pretty common on bigger off road style tires i wouldnt think that would be a factor unless it was really bad or the belts are seperating. I've run bias ply tires before, many of them are out of round but roll pretty smooth still.

 

Where do you feel the vibration? The whole truck, your ass, or the steering wheel?

 

For sure not the steering wheel. I can take my hands off and see no shake in it. I need to find some time to swap the tires around and see if it comes into the wheels. Just so time consuming with only 2 jack stands. Pics of blocks coming in next post.

 

This is the lift kit. Only the rear components were installed. Blocks, brake line offset and u-bolts. the front was lifted already by previous owner with a toytec 2.5" front lift.

https://www.readylift.com/3-f-2-r-sst-lift-kit-toyota-tundra-trd-sr5-rock-warrior-2005-2018.html

 

Got the rear up on jackstands today and let the tires spin. Rear tires may be out of round by less than 1/4", probably closer to 1/8".

 

If tires or rims are out of round at all, you will have vibrations.

 

Just another opinion - Since the only thing that changed in your suspension geometry was the lift block installation (assuming that the ride was acceptable before the lift block install), that is likely the cause. Maybe you should consider removing the front lift and returning the truck to stock ride height. You are likely to spend as much, throwing dough at resolving the "new" problem, as you would going back to the stock suspension geometry.

 

Were there problems before the lift?

 

Absolutely this is the proper way. Just not sure if I can make that time investment right now. Plus I'd be throwing money at it just to get it back to stock. I'm looking at $75 in just a new set of U-Bolts. If a $75 tire balance will do the trick I'd rather try that. Even if it doesn't work money wouldn't be wasted.

No, but I added spidertrax spacers and the rear lift and realignment in quick succession. I am leaning towards a road force balance being the next step. The vibration is really at its worst between 40-70mph.

 

Looking at the pictures didn’t help so let’s eliminate all of the guess work and use math.

First, watch this video to understand what is happening.
https://youtu.be/Idk3BVDVHq4

Then watch this video to determine the operating angle. I have a 6” lift in the rear and used this to correct my operating angles, which eliminated the vibrations.
https://youtu.be/f1m-Fh5kiRU

 

Thank you! This is so helpful. I went out and made some adjustments and it seems to be riding better. I'll give it a few dozen more miles before calling it good. I ended up having to remove my carrier bearing drop spacer and flip it upside down, then add about 3/8" of spacers. The issue seemed to be with the front portion of the driveshaft not being in line with the transmission.

It is tough because the only adjustment point you have easy access to is the carrier bearing drop.

 

Just kidding, the second test drive later today wobbled it up. Next step is a road force balance.

 

Try swapping the front and rear wheels. Maybe one side at a time and go for a drive. If tires are out of balance you’ll either feel it in the steering wheel or the back of your seat. See if you can notice any change. I personally think it’s the block added on the flat leaf springs.

 

What were your angles starting from the TC?

 

Your blocks appear to be installed correctly. Your vibration is either the driveshaft angle or the tires.

How big of a spacer do you have on the carrier bearing? How thick is it?

 

Those round spacers i think are for the front differiential. I would try removing those and stacking some washers about a 1/2" inch thick with the carrier bearing facing the original direction and see if anything improves.

 

Long shot, I had tacoma with a AAL. When I had it aligned they told me the thrust angle was bad. Turns out there was some play on the leaf spring pins to the axle seats. I loosened my U bolts and used ratchet straps to pull the axle as far forward as possible. Retorqued the U bolts with the straps still cinched. Fixed the issue and never had a problem.

 

LOL - this is the classic - "keep throwing money at it until" - until it rides like - before? There is a reason why there are "hundreds" of threads on both the Tundra and Tacoma sites dealing with drivability and ride problems after modifying the factory suspension geometry. good luck.