Seeking magnetic grey front bumper ends

Hey everyone, looking for said bumper end caps with the sensor holes for a 2018 tundra

 

Good luck to you. I haven’t been looking but I think color matched takeoffs are rare. There are other options though, if you’re interested...

 

Sparks parts sells them

 

What other options? @HecticEnergy

@ninjajay yeah I have been thinking about getting the remained of things from them. I thought I would still my feelers out there. I also thought about wrapping them as well.

 

I've been looking to do the same. Here's the options I've seen:


Plasti Dip - for MGM I think I saw a few threads of people getting it to match with one of the grey's they have and some clear coats, but again, I'd worry about chipping and peeling on the front. Probably cost you about $15-30 (depending on how cheap you can get it) and maybe an hour of your time.

Vinyl Wrap - I havent seen any reviews for longevity, but on the front I'd worry about scratches that will eventually cause it to peel. Not entirely sure how much this would cost, but I think I saw somewhere that it was around $400. I've also heard wrapping curved surfaces (especially around the edges of the bumper) is a PITA. Not sure if that $400 included install or not.

Professional Powder Coating (Line-X or similar) - Durable. People here have gotten it done for around $350. You keep the steel end caps (which I happen to think will be more durable than the plastic ones). They have different colors, but I'm not hopeful they'd be able to match factory close enough for my satisfaction. I'm planning to have mine powder coated black.
They also have rattle can powder coating, but i'm not sure how well that'd last or how good it'd look...


IF you want to get parts, here is a list of the part's you'll need - its not a simple swap of chrome for plastic, you need a bunch of other parts and it adds up quick:

From: https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-oem-toyota-parts-thread.10707/ (as another user said, SparksParts will paint, but you can get the product numbers from here and get an idea of what work is entailed at least)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Front Bumper Ends


Another big one. The front bumper ends are a big seller. These parts do not come painted from Toyota and WE ARE NO LONGER SELLING THEM PAINTED. You will need to take them to a local body shop to have them painted. Below are the part numbers for everything you will need. Order both bumper ends (with or without sensors) and both seals. They come in a flat black, textured finish that is similar to the center section of the bumper on SR, SR5, and Limited models.


With sensors
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-end-cap-with-parking-sensor-521120c908/?c=aT04MTkzMDA1NSZyPTQ=
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-end-cap-with-parking-sensor-521130c908/?c=aT04MTkzMDA1NSZyPTQ=

Without sensors
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-end-cap-without-parking-sensor-521120c080/?c=aT04MTkzMDAzNSZyPTQ=
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-end-cap-without-parking-sensor-521130c080/?c=aT04MTkzMDAzNSZyPTQ=

Seals you will need:
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...nsion-seal-538820c060/?c=aT04MTkzMTUwNSZyPTE2
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...nsion-seal-538830c050/?c=aT04MTkzMTUwNSZyPTE2

Rear Bumper Ends


Same thing for the rear bumper ends, EXCEPT they require a lot more parts to install. Again, WE ARE NO LONGER OFFERING CUSTOM PAINTED PARTS. Here are links to the unpainted parts:

Caps with sensors:
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-end-cap-with-parking-sensors-521560c903/?c=aT04MTkzOTMyNSZyPTY=
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-end-cap-with-parking-sensor-521550c903/?c=aT04MTkzOTMzNSZyPTY=

Caps without sensors:
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-end-cap-without-parking-sensor-521550c030/?c=aT04MTkzOTMzNSZyPTY=
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-end-cap-without-parking-sensor-521560c030/?c=aT04MTkzOTMyNSZyPTY=

Other parts you WILL need:
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-side-reinforced-521540c030/?c=aT04MTkzOTMyNSZyPTk=
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-side-reinforced-521530c040/?c=aT04MTkzOTMyNSZyPTk=
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...plate-clip-9046804059/?c=aT04NTE5Njg1NSZyPTEw x6
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-end-cap-clip-9046707215/?c=aT04NTQ2MDM3NSZyPTc= x14
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...rim-clip-9046706165c0/?c=aT04MTkzNzE2NSZyPTEz x2

"Roman, that's a lot more expensive than the front. Do I really need all of those extra parts?"

Yes, you do. Here's a link to a thread showing the reason why:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/color-matched-bumper-swap.7635/

 

Thanks for all of your suggestion! I think I’ll minimize the headache and get them from sparks parts.

 

https://www.sparksparts.com/accesso...paintable-bumper-end-caps-pktunfr?parent=6407

https://www.sparksparts.com/accesso...ntable-bumper-end-cap-kit-pktunrr?parent=6407

plus $275 (each set) for paint.

1404.61 + Shipping

Thats some serious cheddar...

 

If you are not familiar with plastidip, you should seriously consider it.
I ordered a set of bumpers that are a month+ out, and plastidipped my front/rear bumpers in the mean time because I couldn’t stand the chrome.
It took about 30 min prep, and a few hours to dry in between 4-5 coats. Probably cost you $40 max.

Everyone at work thought I put new bumpers on. They couldn’t believe it was plastidipped.
Really thin coast yields great looking results.
I used anthracite gray - which I’m guessing is as close to factory MGM as it gets. It’s not an exact match, but it’s close and looks 10X better than chrome.
I plastidipped many other parts on cars that lasted many many years (since plastidip first came out)

 

Pics attached - sorry truck is dirty

 

Few more this am

 

I had the same idea. Shop around though, I got a auto body shop to order parts and paint and put on the truck for only $40 more than what I would have paid Sparks, minus headache of taking off old and putting on new.

 

Could you give a little more info on your process? or link a post if you have already

From what you said with some guessing on my part:
30 min prep: clean bumpers, Tap area 1-2" away from where you want the paint to cover - within the 1-2" it'll peel off, masking the area out a few feet is to catch any overspray that is harder to peel off in sheets.
4-5 THIN coats of Anthracite Gray - let dry 0.5 - 1 hour between coat applications.
did you do any of the Gloss PlastiDip?

I know you said its only temporary until you get your new ones in, but could you notice how it holds up after a wash? what kind of travel you put on them (highway driving? long trips?) - any pitting from bugs or rocks.. I'm curious as one of my big worries with vinyl or plastidip getting messed up for being on the front of the vehicle.

 

I vote for plasti dip if you want to save money. I installed pocket fenders and plasti dipped them with 5 coats and 3 coats of glossifier. Not 100% color matched but close enough. Plasti dip is pretty durable. I wash my car with a power washer and it hasn't peeled at all.

 

I had my lexus plastidipped for 5 years - the grill, emblems and it held up perfect:

It holds up through auto car washes and even pressure washing just fine. The stuff is amazing. It's not powdercoat, but it's a pretty solid product for what it costs and what it takes to apply.
I don't have a link or post. It's pretty much like spray paint (which I've spray painted many things. My wife's limited wheels were spray painted gray about 5 years ago and still look brand new - it's all about prep and thin coats).

Here was my process from what I recall:

*Wipe chrome pieces down with rubbing alcohol - wipe down again with clean towel (I use the thick blue throw away shop paper towels) after the alcohol dries.
*Use 2" thick blue painters tape and news paper to mask around bumpers. I just slipped the tape under the black plastic pieces of the bumper where the plastic meets the chrome - then taped the paper to the body of the truck. *Make sure that after you mask the area that you run a small thin flatbed screwdriver around the cracks and push the masking tape up under the black plastic. You don't want any masking tape touching the chrome or the plastidip will peel off when you pull the masking tape off! You don't want this!

For the front fogs I just used the masking tape and blocked them off completely - use a screwdriver around the plastic edges here too.

*Make sure there is no wind, and spray very light even coats.
*If you're a normal impatient person like me, you'll immediately want instant gratification once you start spraying - and you'll try to cover the bumpers completely with gray in the first 2 to 3 coats. DO NOT DO THIS. It's hard to maintain self control on this one - and this is where most people screw up. Light thin coats will make the paint look factory. medium to heavy coats will run and look like crap! And not stick as well.
*The painted areas shouldn't be completely covered in gray until about 4 coats. Then add another 1-2 coats after that.

You can add the glosifier afterwards as the final coats - I did not do that. I'd see if anyone has any pics with glosifier before making that decision.

When you peel off the masking tape - do it slowly, and have and exacto knife or razor blade handy in case the tape touched the plastidip somewhere. You can cut the plastidip to prevent it from peeling up.

 

Exactly. Whats the worst that could happen? You lose about 3hrs of your life and $40.00.
I think the pros outweigh the cons. If you don't like it for whatever reason, peel it off in 30 minutes or less LOL.

 

Well then, seems to me plasti dip is the answer! Or at least a short term solution. Thank you for all of your posts on this topic.

 

Yea, to those who aren’t familiar or more “old school” they won’t undertand until they see it. I told my business partner who is 60 yrs old what I was going to do and he thought I was crazy.
Afterwards - employees comented on how much better it looked, and he couldn’t believe the paint came out of a can LOL. It’s worth a try for sure. It’s not a perfect match, but it’s 10X better than chrome and 20X cheaper and easier than powdercoating or purchasing painted pieces.

 

Here is what I mean about taping them up.
And then using a small flathead to push the tape up under the plastic.
And a shot to show the texture of the paint.

 

Getting mine vinyl wrapped Monday. I’ve tried auto dip which is glossy vinyl in a spray can and plasti dip. Seems like I get a bout a year before I need to re do them. I’m gonna try to actual vinyl wrap this time and see how long they hold up.

 

There is no reason when doing the bumpers to have the 1”-2” overspray that a lot of people normally recommend. If you are doing emblems, then I would recommend the overspray - because masking emblems off accurately is a pain in the ass. But because the tape can easily be tucked under the plastic where the plastic meets the chrome on the bumpers there is no reason to over spray. Just tape the bumpers like you would using spray paint. You for sure want at least 12” all around to prevent overspray. I just did 11” notebook paper, but for those that are new to the process I’d recommend more coverage.

 

I’ve always vinyl wrapped all of my chrome trim around windows when the MFG’s didn’t offer a full black option. Vinyl held up just the same as my plastidipped parts. Chrome trim that small I wasn’t comfortable plastidipping.
Apparently I had better luck than you though LOL
What’s crazy is my factory paint (Lexus, which is quite good) had more paint chips than my platidipped grille!

 

I’ve used this a couple times super glossy couldn’t even tell it wasn’t factory. With my big wide tires it tears it up after about a year tho.
http://www.autodip.com/

 

Plastidip seems to be a bit more durable than autodip. I just don’t like the flat black of the plasti dip and the clear coat doesn’t do much. So I tried autodip and it looked factory just wasn’t as durable as the plasti. Holding vinyl will be good for at least a couple years I only put 5k a year on the truck so it sits more than anything. It just needs to sit pretty

 

I was just about to reply Never hearing of Autodip - I googled and seeing Autodip reviews on Amazon are 2 to 3 stars at best, where Plastidip is a consistent 4.5-5 Star product.

Did you properly apply Plastidip and really have bad results after a year? That makes sense for Autodip but not Plastidip. I knew guys that have done their entire cars that are on 3 years and still look good.

(And entire vinyl cars, that I think do indeed last longer)

The folks that put out the “Tundra bumper corner vinyl wraps” are actually local to me and would install as well. I debated that route. I just really liked the Nfab MRDS front bumper more
LOL.

 

Ya the rocks from my tires just ate it away little by little. But it is thicker than autodip for sure. I did a can or so for each bumper end. I’ve used plasti dip a lot and still do on smaller things. And if they offered it in a high gloss black I’d re do my bumpers with it. Main reason I’m going to vinyl.

 

Yea, that makes sense!

 

I mean they look ok flat black but gloss black is where it’s at since everything on my truck is gloss black and grey it just matches better. Here’s the truck with autodip it looks great until winter hits then it just doesn’t last.
Front

Rear

 

Yep, that gloss black does look nice for sure! Great looking truck! Is that 4.5-5” drop bracket or 3/1” coils? 35’s?

 

I’m on Fox coilovers 3/1 with 295s

 

What’s your tire size I’m running the bilstien 5100’s at 2.5” in front and 3” in rear. Does anyone know how large I could go on the 2018 without rub?