Secondary Air System / SAIS Replacement Info and Instructions

*Edited*

This thread is helpful for codes P1441, P1442, P1443, P1444, P1445, P2440, P2441, P2442, P2443, P2444, P2445, P2446, P2447

- In depth replacement instructions (with all part #s) kinda... https://docs.google.com/document/d/1wQWyJ1eqnmaCH2rhrIK3J8daCDzz88x4SIepS_SATvE/edit?usp=sharing
- DIY bypass option (Not mine). Do keep in mind that modifying emission systems is federally illegal and in CA it is illegal entirely.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-do-you-fix-the-secondary-air-injection-system.113688/
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TyXeLflvYiq1PXwZF3xQY5x1Vq0pocT1/view?usp=sharing

First of all this post isn't really a full in depth DIY but a bit of cobbling some videos together along with my experiences. I trust the resources but take what I say with a grain of salt. In depth-ish instruction are above. Anyway let's get into this.

First an explanation of what the Secondary Air Injection System(SAIS/SAS) is. SAIS is an emissions system that activates during the first few minutes after a cold start up. This system pumps fresh air directly into the exhaust to help warm up and oxygenate your catalytic converter. Anyway...

This adventure started one day after work when the check engine light came on and the truck went into limp mode. Couldn't get the RPM's above 2500 and 30 mph. Made it home and back to work the next day. I had the shop down the street plug in their OBD2 scanner and pulled the code, P1441 and P1444. A little confused about what was wrong even after searching the codes, I went to head home and the light turned off and limp mode was gone. Fast forward a day and after reading this Tundras talk document I had a better idea about what was going on but I wasn't going to go the bypass system route because I still need to pass smog, It's Illegal to sell without it (in more states than not, even TX) and just for the piece of mind. These codes mean that the Air switching/check valves are stuck open allowing exhaust to back flow in the system, possibly destroying the pump or main switching valve.

https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/diy-permanent-fix-for-aip-issue.95408/

So Sunday night I went in and just started taking the Intake manifold off blind. After some fiddling around I got just about everything off. The next morning I got the last two bolts off the intake and pulled the bitch out. The video I used for a guide halfway through does a good job of showing how to remove things. And they did it in a way better way than I did. I also cleaned the throttle body and cleaned the manifold out. I used a can of brake cleaner, a coarse brush and my garden hose with a harbor freight soap mixer/ "foam cannon" on the jet setting and car wash in the thing. A lot of nasty oil came out. I cleaned the manifold 3 times and still didn’t get it all out but it sure is better and is more of a comment on how lazy I was cleaning it. How all that oil in there is saving the planet idk. I say put in a catch can and make it part of your oil change. But that's just one whipper snappers idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vKyVQa-pjk

Getting the air switching valves out was a PITA the video shows it well but the bolts are either pressed up against the firewall or blocked by the plastic wire harness block. As for the rest of the system I decided to pull it out as well because I figured hey while I'm in here I might as well do the rest. So for air pump I didn't take the whole bracket out and instead I just removed the pump and the main switch valve from the bracket. And so to add to my struggle the front most bolt of the pump is inconveniently placed kind of recessed to the front coolant crossover/bypass/ I don't know, and I removed the bolts for the main switching valve to give me enough wiggle room to get the pump out.







(I forgot to take a pic of the main switch valve out)

As for getting these parts replaced I am not going to pay $700 for a new Air pump and the Tech talk Document mentioned using an early 2000's GMC Sonoma and some other models air pump and just splice in the old harness.



So I spent the following Thursday going from the Toyota dealership, then the Chevy dealership and had to put the pump on order for a day. And on the way back down I stopped at Napa for the intake gasket I forgot. But while I was waiting for the guy I got carried away and grabbed some Mobil 1 High mileage (at the recommendation of the most recent oil thread), and a bunch of antifreeze since my dumbass didn’t realize what the two hoses on the bottom of the throttle body did ( a bunch of coolant goes through it). Getting everything back in and back in place was about as big of a PITA as it was getting it out. And while I was getting everything but the pump and manifold buttoned up I also went ahead and replaced one of my fuel injector connectors which I pooched when the injector was leaking from a broken o-ring (it was my fault). I also gave it an oil change went with Mobil 1 on recommendation of the most recent oil thread. Getting the pump back in was easy. But getting the intake manifold back on and everything attached was not as bad as I thought. Same amount of PITA to finagle some of the bolts in place but not bad overall. I got some fuel line from the local Car Quest before work today. I got it on the passenger side fuel rail, I added some more coolant in, and got everything started up. Dash went Christmas tree for a sec while the coolant got sucked in and the oil pressure came back but after that the dash was nice and empty And holy shit was I nervous I did something wrong. From startup until it reached temp and then the 5 minutes after I parked at work I was just checking to make sure fluids weren’t spewing out and the thing wasn’t on fire.



So after 6 days of non op and $1100 bucks later I cleared my code =). If you just came here for the valves, I paid $140 per valve, and $250 for the main valve. As for the pump it ended up being just under $400 since GM only sells it with the hoses that go with it, so if anyone has a ‘00-’03 Sonoma, Blazer, or S10 and you want new hoses for your air system let me know. Otherwise all I have to wrap this up is that I went into this super intimidated with what was going on, and I came out of it with relative peace of mind that I fixed the problem. I don’t stand by the work I did putting the manifold back on. I busted 2 injector o - rings and it wasn’t torqued exactly to spec...Anyway I hope this was somewhat slightly helpful and feel free to drop any questions. I’ll answer as best I can.






(Update)
Since I wrote this article the truck has successfully taken me ~4,000 mi with no problems. This past summer it did 2200 mi in 2 months. I went from my home in San Francisco, all the way up to the Canadian border. Then all the way down to San Diego and back home. We surpassed 150,000 mi at the beginning of the trip, and now have plans to do timing belt and water pump among other things.

9/1/22 - Now over a year in and still running without a problem! Sitting at 160k on the odo now!!

 

Good write up. We need to consolidate all the AIP threads and sticky them into three categories 1. Replace parts, 2. Bypass Kit, 3. DIY bypass.
Not it.

 

I just finished school for the year sooo...

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1wQWyJ1eqnmaCH2rhrIK3J8daCDzz88x4SIepS_SATvE/edit?usp=sharing

Heres what I'm working on for replacement. Still needs some work but so far it is the only material on here besides this thread to talk about SAIS replacement. Theres a few bypass threads for both DIY and off the shelf no cut solutions

 

How much is a bypass kit for this issue?

 

A no cut solution like Rutech are about $180 and up
https://rutechsolutions.com/products/aip47?variant=38455630340

 

@ColoradoTJ can we put this thread up in the sticky section? This comes up enough it'd be good to have easy access to it.

 

I'm honored

 

Can we go over the bypass kit in this Thread?

 

Feel free. The Tundra talk doc talk about a DIY option but your more than welcome to add on

 

Good guide. Thanks for doing this! I did mine a few months ago, and saved quite a bit.

Couple of notes:

• The Bypass kit doesn't work for all issues. Mine had a stuck valve from the fan debris so the only fix was removing/replacing that valve. Previous owner already tried to fix it with the bypass kit.
• Parts can be had for much cheaper. I paid ~ $525 for all the parts. Everything is from the Toyota Parts Program dealer plan except the pump which was the Dorman 306-010. Only need to change the connector on the Dorman to the Toyota connector. Two wires - cut, solder, shrink tube, done.

All in all, that video linked above is all that was needed. As mentioned, the check valve bolts are the portion that slows you down the most. You'll need some extensions as well as swivel or universal sockets.

 

It was the same cut solder shrink tube situation with the GM pump. I just paid more because I couldn't have the truck be non op for over a week. Priced out on the main Toyota parts catalog and from the direct GM parts catalog it was around $550. And it can be done even cheaper with all Dorman parts that I found on partsgeek.com.

 

I found a great 3 part video from David Clark on Youtube from November 2016. Very detailed instructions on removal and replacement of secondary air injection vacuum switching valves and other components for 2006 Sequoia/Tundra with a lot of tips on what needs to be removed and not removed.

 

I found that one too but I found myself liking the video I posted a bit better but it was very good as well. Feel free to drop the links.

 

Well I get to go down this rabbit hole, tundra is throwing codes:

*P1445- secondary air Injection switching valve stuck closed bank 2

*P1442- stuck closed in secondary air injection vacuum switching valve bank 1

*P2441-secondary air injection switching valve stuck closed bank 1

also throwing catalyst effiency below threshold (p0430) and high voltage oxygen circuit sensor bank 1 sensor 2 (p0138)

*not to worried about the last 2 codes, priority is the air pump stuff. I seen a post or 2 mentioning the bypass kits won’t help with stuck valves. Should I be looking at replacing everything or will the by pass kit suffice?

***so after looking at Hewitt techs website, it looks like a bypass kit will solve my issues with codes listed. Looks like the tundra is getting a delete kit

 

I believe just the plates wont work because if you use the electronic confuser it essentially shuts off the system

 

Installed the Hewitt tech gen 2 bypass on the ole girl today. Kits pretty awesome, came with super easy to follow directions. Highly recommend it

(My little boy was helping me, don’t pay no mind to the capri sun lol)



The box that makes it all happen.


So I opted to not disassemble my dash all the way. I only took the glove box out for ecm access. Which left with a hell of a time trying to get wire in the cab. I ended come in above the ac condenser drain. Siliconed it really good in the engine bay and really good in the cab. Seemed like my best option


*didn’t snap any pictures of the ecm splicing but wasn’t too bad. I did learn a hard lesson about scotch blocks, and did something really stupid with my wiring.

*that leaves the block off plates, no photos but was relative uneventful. Took the tires off, dropped the fender liners and was able to get a small ratchet in to loosen them. It was slo go due to room but the plates are not that bad on a truck that isn’t rusty. I could see them being a nightmare on a rusty truck.

 

Nice! @Cummins3500 Thank you for adding this!

 

Well, now I've got this problem.

"Secondary air injection system switching valve stuck closed"

2007 DC with 112,000 miles.

3rd owner.

Scouring the internet, don't think I want to go the "bypass" route.

Truck sees very few miles...I've put on a couple thousand max and I've owned it since January.

Questions...

1. Is there any chance this is covered by warranty? Would I find this out by calling local dealer?

2. Should I bring this to the local dealer (obviously yes, if it would be warrantied).

3. Can my local shop do this repair, if not covered by warranty?

4. How much $$$ am I looking at if the cost for repair is mine, which I am assuming it is.

Thanks in advance...

SPP

 

@slowpokepete im seriously doubting Toyota is still covering it. They did for awhile on 2nd and 3rd gens so it’s worth a shot I guess.

This is an on going issue with Toyota’s. Your local shop can for sure do the work but I think it’s somewhere between $1500 and 2k at least

The point that swayed my decision for a bypass kit was a dude on here has it done under warranty and within 2 years, it had failed again. I went with the gen 2 kit and couldn’t be happier

 

Like what @Cummins3500 said having a shop do it is going to run you a bit. plus you are probably going to want to replace everything else involved in the system while they are in there. DIY is always the cheapest and I did my best with the documentation above and you or anyone is always welcomed to ask questions about how to tackle it.

 

May want to ask in the 2nd Gen Tundra forum also. It's more likely you'll find more accurate info in the forum where most people share your generation of truck. Us 1st Gen guys tend to be confused enough about what exists in our own trucks, much less the next generation.

 

Yup, was wondering about other stuff to fix/replace in the process.

Wish this was something I could;d DIY but not even close.

What other kinds of stuff might be candidates for addressing when having this work done?

Also, is there any "benefit" to having the dealer do this work vs. my local shop?

SPP

 

@slowpokepete are we talking a 5.7 truck or 4.7 truck, or 4.0?

 

5.7

SPP

 

For your first question, the starter is really thing only thing you can do with out pulling other stuff apart but it does give you a good chance to do some regular maintenance stuff like replace the intake manifold gasket, replace spark plugs and maybe get some new injectors. I'm rocking the dirty deeds 12 hole injectors and I think they make them for '07's as well.

For your second question. It depends. I would recommend a trusted mechanic since typically a dealer will charge more by the hour but if there aren't any nearby at least the dealership guys have access to the OE manuals and probably some more goodies.

But if a 17 (now 18) year old can do it with basic hand and power tools, I think your local shop can do it.

 

OK so...

Closest dealership quoted me $2,500 including pumps.

Second dealership (a little further away, but original dealer...I am third owner) about $350 less than the first.

Local shop delays because loss of mechanic and main guy who runs the place is away this week, so was gonna get a quote from him upon return.

Leaning towards second dealership, though, where truck was originally purchased.

------------------------------------- ------------------------------- ----------------------------------- ------------------------------ -------------------------------

Today...

Loaded up the kayaks, head down to the lake, yup...Engine light still ON.

Peek at dash on the way home,

NOW THE LIGHT IS OFF!

So, is the air intake valve un-stuck?

and should I assume it is temporarily so?

SPP

 

It's temporary. Mine went in and out of limp mode like 2-4 times over 3 days before I fixed it. But technically yes the valve did open or close or whatever it wasn't doing, but it is not going to last long. I even tried lubing the valves before doing a full replace and no dice. its definitely something inside the the actuator its self rather that the valve and subsequent shaft ceasing.

 

Does anyone know if this or other bypass kits will allow you to still pass state emissions inspections? I am in PA in an emissions county (Lancaster) and would prefer to just do the bypass if it doesn't cause me to fail inspection.