SAIS P0418 fixed with pics

What’s up guys and gals, about a month ago my 2011 4.6L threw a check engine light, plugged in my OBD link MX+ and got P0418. The truck still operated like normal, but I noticed it stopped doing the turbo sound that the pumps make during cold start. The truck still drove like normal and never went into limp mode. I live in Cali and didn’t want to deal with a bypass kit. Dealer wanted $3,000 to fix so I figured I’d give it a shot. Doing some research, I found a video on YouTube with the same year and motor. I went ahead and ordered new OEM pumps (part# 17610-0S010) that were $450 each, you’ll need 2 of them, both the same. I started off by removing the passenger front tire and removed the fender liner clips. This can be done easily with 2 small flat blade screw drivers at opposing ends to squeeze the tabs together and they’ll pop right out. I removed 5 clips on the front half of the liner and peeled the fender liner back to expose the pumps.

I used a bungee to hold the liner out of the way. Once the pumps are exposed, use a 12mm socket with 6” extension and remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts, leave 1 bolt in but loose to hold the pump assembly in place.
Now open the hood and disconnect the battery, then get some pliers and remove the 2 hose clamps to the inlet hoses and carefully pull the 2 hoses off. Then disconnect the 2 electrical plugs for the pumps. I used some tape on the male and female ends of 1 plug and paint penned 1 of the hoses so I didn’t get them mixed up. Then grab a flat blade or a pick and undo the alligator clips holding the hoses in place.

once you have everything undone, go back to the wheel well and remove the final bolt holding the pump assembly in and carefully pull the hoses and electrical connections through the wheel well. If you have remote reservoir shocks like me, it’ll be way easier to remove the hose clamps and let the reservoir hang down out of the way.


Now take the whole pump assembly to the bench and take some pics of the plumbing for reference. I ordered a new pump intake tube since Toyota now makes it with a little guard(part #17621-0S012) it would be smart to order all new plumbing since all my hoses were starting to crack.

Grab a new pump and tape one of the connections so you’ll know which plug to put it into in the engine bay. Remove the old pumps by pulling the rubber grommets straight outward and they’ll come right out. Install the new pumps and Reconnect the plumbing in the same orientation.


Now the pumps are ready to be reinstalled in the fender well. Feed the tubes and electrical connections through the wheel well while holding the pump assembly where it’ll be mounted, install 1 bolt loosely to hold it in place, then go to the engine bay and route the tubes and connections. Once everything is routed correctly, install the remaining nuts and bolts that hold the assembly and replace the fender liner and clips. Then go back and plug the connections in and secure the alligator clips and reconnect the Neg battery terminal. I fired the truck up and the code cleared itself instantly. Now go enjoy a cold one and celebrate because you just saved thousands of dollars! The whole job took me 2 hours taking my time.
I hope this can help some of you, sorry if it's not the best but I'll be happy to answer anything that's unclear.

 

Took one of the pumps apart and saw that it had a big piece of degraded foam stuck in it. I took the other one apart and the foam was totally fine lol

 

It would be great to find a bypass (like Hewitt) as this system is useless. Keep system grounded for 5v constant? I have all tubing removed but still have connections to pumps and air valves. Working on getting rid of those on the cheap.

 

Seriously! This system is absolute garbage and I only had to do the pumps, hoping the air valves aren’t soon to follow lol. I’d be interested to see what you come up with!