SABM Review

I did this mod over the weekend. I honestly wasn't expecting much but i figured for 30 minutes of work (most of which was cutting the holes) I figured wth. First off, I'm pretty happy with the mod overall. My truck however is a very happy truck with this mod. While I have no dyno results to back this up I will say the butt-o-meter hasn't failed me in 35+ years of muscle car building, driving, racing.

Things I noticed:

1. The truck finds it "happy spot(s)" more readily. By this I mean getting up to speed is more fluid, passing on the interstate at 60mph + isn't the chore it was before (by chore I mean finding the gear or dropping down too far in gears, etc.). It seems more "civilized" with regards to overall predictive engagement approach if that makes sense (ie; the truck trying to do the driving for you).
2. IF you like the throaty racy sounds its for you. I really couldn't believe my ears when I got it on the first time with this mod. I have a K&N drop in and removed the screen from the throttle body and it was plenty throaty.

It went from this:


To this:


Well maybe not that drastic but it was a noticeably deeper tone.

3. I will keep an eye on mileage as well and post back findings, I'm hopeful but its going to be a bit as the go button calls out too often these days to worry about mpg...

Parts Used

x2 -

$8 Spectre Performance SPE-8148 8148 Air Duct Mounting Plate

Spectre Performance 8148 Air Duct Mounting Plate
x1 -

$12 Spectre Performance 8771 3-3/2.5" Intake Coupler

Spectre Performance 8771 3-3/2.5" Intake Coupler
x5 - #8 self tapping screws
x1 - Tube Silicone Sealant
Duplicolor matching paint for touching up bare metal

Tools Used
3/8" Rachet with 8" extension
10mm socket
3/8" cordless drill
3" Bi-Metal hole saw
Fine Tip Permanent Marker

couple of notes on the installation side of things.

1. The air box has a slight downward angle to it and is an uneven surface. I compensated for the uneven surface with silicone sealant as I didn't want any whistles going on. As far as the angle I got a little creative and eyeballed it and bolted it down to my bench and went to town on it with a finish sander (didn't want to take off too much material or get it too hot and melt it). I suppose you could cut it with a hack saw but I didn't want to risk snapping it with a blade hang. I'm usually pretty damn good with eyeballing and this was no exception.
2. The fender is an uneven surface and will require silicone sealant as well or at least I feel a ton better sealing it and knowing I won't/don't have a whistle.

Suggested procedure after my install; hindsight is always 20/20.

Cut the air box first, mount the flange and slip the rubber hose over it and then slip the flange for the fender on it so its one assembly mach up. Dry fit everything and make sure the rubber guide and existing duct slide all the way back into the fender and you can bolt the airbox back in place (BOTH BOLTS!!!!!!). I even went as far as to bolt it down about 1/2 way before marking the holes for the flange on the fender well.

Mark the holes for the flange on the fender well. unbolt, take fender flange off and re-align with holes. drill pilot holes or use self tappers to mount the flange to the fender well. now trace the inside of the 3" opening with a marker, pencil or what have you. Unbolt the fender flange and grab your Bi-Metal hole saw. Line it up and cut it out.

Note: Before any of the above, relocate the grounds as they are right in the way. I used a #8 self tapping screw and mounted it straight down into the fender so its under the airbox and out of the way. I also took the time to make the ground coming off the head to the fender much larger (I have ground issues from working in electronics so long).

The reason for the above is I eyeballed and was off about 1/8", It really didn't matter much as I knew i'd be trimming with my air die grinder as I only had a 2.5" bi-metal hole saw.

You could do it with 1 flange and a 3" OD hose for sure. It would simplify things as there are some surface angle issues to deal with lining up the 2 flanges for the hose but this approach will not seal as well as the 2 flange with worm gear clamps and may produce whistle(s).

 

Thank you for for parts list. Much cheaper than the kit sold for this mod

 

Actually not my parts list, saw it suggested on another thread just don’t remember which one or who but have to give credit to them for sure.

 

Glad to hear the good review. Have been interested in this as well.

Did the mounting plates (flanges) come with hardware? Self tapping screws or bolts?

 

Did mine a few days ago as well and you’re spot on with the assessment

Only thing I didn’t do was cut the screen out.

 

The square flange is being mounted to the body or the air box?

Found it. Looks clean

@ksuma831
https://www.tundras.com/threads/stock-air-box-mod-sabm-review-thread.2420/#post-1170019

 

He's using 2 flanges.

 

No screws or bolts, I did use self tappers. couple of notes on the installation side of things.

1. The air box has a slight downward angle to it and is an uneven surface. I compensated for the uneven surface with silicone sealant as I didn't want any whistles going on. As far as the angle I got a little creative and eyeballed it and bolted it down to my bench and went to town on it with a finish sander (didn't want to take off too much material or get it too hot and melt it). I suppose you could cut it with a hack saw but I didn't want to risk snapping it with a blade hang. I'm usually pretty damn good with eyeballing and this was no exception.
2. The fender is an uneven surface and will require silicone sealant as well or at least I feel a ton better sealing it and knowing I won't/don't have a whistle.

Suggested procedure after my install; hindsight is always 20/20.

Cut the air box first, mount the flange and slip the rubber hose over it and then slip the flange for the fender on it so its one assembly mach up. Dry fit everything and make sure the rubber guide and existing duct slide all the way back into the fender and you can bolt the airbox back in place (BOTH BOLTS!!!!!!). I even went as far as to bolt it down about 1/2 way before marking the holes for the flange on the fender well.

Mark the holes for the flange on the fender well. unbolt, take fender flange off and re-align with holes. drill pilot holes or use self tappers to mount the flange to the fender well. now trace the inside of the 3" opening with a marker, pencil or what have you. Unbolt the fender flange and grab your Bi-Metal hole saw. Line it up and cut it out.

Note: Before any of the above, relocate the grounds as they are right in the way. I used a #8 self tapping screw and mounting it straight down into the fender so its under the airbox and out of the way. I also took the time to make the ground coming off the head to the fender much larger (I have ground issues from working in electronics so long).

The reason for the above is I eyeballed and was off about 1/8", It really didn't matter much as I knew i'd be trimming with my air die grinder as I only had a 2.5" bi-metal hole saw.

 

I didn't cut it out, I just unbolted the throttle body and slid the new gasket in that doesn't have the screen.

 

You could do it with 1 flange and a 3" OD hose for sure. It would simplify things as there are some surface angle issues to deal with lining up the 2 flanges for the hose.

 

It's best to seal both hose ends with the flanges using the hose clamps. Like you stated it's fairly easy to modify the flange to account for angle differences.

 

i wanted to do this but it appears i have something grounded there. might be the remote start. bought it used so idk. it looks professional almost stock actually. anyone else have thiS?

 

You need to relocate the grounds.

 

are these factory then? where did you do that

 

There are factory grounds located where the SABM hole is cut into the inner fender. All 2nd and 3rd gens have them in the same location. It's easy to relocate them.

 

i appreciate it man, i didnt know that. where did you end up relocating yours?

 

I bought the SABM kit 4 years ago. Never installed. The kit is in a box with my CMC plates in my storage unit. Can't find the box...

 

See OP's post #8

 

Great post! I've had this stuff sitting in my toolbox for months to do. Guess I'll be doing it this weekend!

 

@TRD-tv You can relocate them about a couple inches to the left of the original location. You just want them out of the way. They’ll fit nicely between both air inlets when you’re done.

 

Someone mentioned on another SAMB thread that this mod could affect your warranty if still under it. Not sure if that is true or not so I am going to wait till I know for sure before attempting to do this mod.

 

The only thing this mod does is let additional cooler air into the air box. 100's of folks have done this with zero issues.

 

Interested in your mileage results on this. I had thought about doing it before and had read conflicting posts about whether it worked or not.

OP, can you post a picture when you get a chance of the final product on your truck?

 

What air filter did you use?

 

I’ll take some pics this weekend.

 

I have a K&N filter.

 

AFE dry filter in mine

 

Thank you! I see more use the AFE over the k&n, do you happen to have a part #?

 

Thanks, I see the k&n is cheaper than afe, I just ordered the new tb gasket without the mesh

 

Did you guys use silicone or foam to seal around the edges?