Rough LCA cam bolt settings to get to alignment shop after lift?

Could someone with a 2.5” front lift provide me with some pictures of their LCA cam bolt settings?

I completely loosened mine up during the install to facilitate putting the bottom shock bolt in and also to ensure they were not seized and could be easily adjusted during the alignment.

However I have no clue how to line those cam bolts up to get me to the shop. I have a couple more days of work, going slow and steady. Still need to do the rear suspension, lbjs and brakes before I put it all back together.

pics similar to these from someone with a 4x4 DC with about 2.5” lift would be greatly appreciated!

 

I can see the outline of where they were in your pictures. Why not just put them back to there? Should be close enough to get you to an alignment shop. In the future you need to mark where they are with a paint marker before loosening.

 

Loosen the nut on the back side, rotate and then tighten. Follow @ATBAV8 's advise. Makes sense to me.

 

Agree with ATBAV8. Man these pics make me thankful I’m not in the rust belt

 

I appreciate the input but none of these comments are very helpful.

With 2.5” of lift the position the cams were previously in is irrelevant.

All four bolts, the nuts and cams are all currently finger tight and can move freely.

And no, I’m not going to leave it that way if nobody can actually help me. I’ll tighten them up and drive a couple miles to the shop.

Thanks

 

Ok so do this, loosen the tie rod jam nut and disconnect the tie rod from the lower ball joint. Then try adjusting the cam bolts.

Or, loosen the tie rod jamb nut and spin the inner tie rods to allow the tie rod to pull the lower ball joint / knuckle either in or out. If your tie rods are not allowing for movement, then you won't be able to push or pull the lower end of the knuckle.

This may be obvious, but make sure you're doing this with the front wheels raised off of the ground.

 

Flip the 2 eccentrics that are upside down. Once they’re in their nook, they’ll hold an alignment better.

 

SOP after any modification of suspension requires an alignment. So really it doesn't matter what you do. Tighten them up willy nilly, or put them back where they were, you still need to get an alignment. Even if someone gave you pictures of a DC with an exact 2.5" lift you still need an alignment. I'm not even sure what the point of your question is now...

 

I think the OP just wants some 'good enough' settings to be able to drive to the alignment shop without wrecking their tires or having dangerous handling. They're just being cautious.

 

That is 100% what I was after. Not sure why that was difficult to understand. I posted the same question on a first gen tundra fb page and ONE person was kind enough to provide the pics requested. Many other people just wanted to provide baseless advice.

Front end is all buttoned up.

On to the rear tomorrow.

And once it’s all finished first stop will be the shop to get it aligned as I had planned to do all along. Pretty sure I was clear about that in the original thread starter…

 

Forward cams in the middle (12 o'clock).
Rearward cams pointed full outwards (3 & 9).

Tape measure toe to 1/8" to 1/4" total toe in.

 

Sometimes it takes a little longer for us to get to it. Bad part about FB groups is they’re full of confident misinformation and hacks. Bad part about forums is, people are gonna tell you stuff you don’t wanna hear a lot of the time.

After my lift, I got a 4ft level on each tire vertical while it was on the ground and tweaked to get the bubble roughly on center under weight. Then ran a string to get the toe set in the ballpark. Best advice I can offer … drove 4 hours round trip to a job today, put in 10hr shift while there, so couldn’t post pics.

 

This. Or just eyeball the camber.

Driving a few miles to an alignment shop wont ruin the tires.