Rotors - how often do you replace?

2018 Tundra Crewmax - Truck only has 20,000 miles and my back pads are just about done. Toyota changed out the front rotors and pads at 12,000 mi because of severe rust on the back side of the rotor. I am assuming the rear may have the same issues. My question is what is your procedure for identifying when rotors need changed along with pads? I don't notice any major vibrations etc. Just worn pads.

 

on my 3rd set since 07... 1 set lasted about a year and warped out, that was 3 or 4 years ago.

 

2017 85k miles on my truck - still on the factory rotors. Did the front pads around 65k and rear pads at 75k.

 

I bought a 2010 Tundra 2WD DC and traded it in at 98,xxx miles and it had the same rotors as the day I bought it new and on the second set of pads.

My current 2018 Tundra 4WD CrewMax has 38,xxx miles and on original

 

My 2010 was traded in with 98k on it and I had only ever done front pads at 78k.
My 17 was just inspected last month and my mechanic asked if I even use the brakes because everything has a lot of life left in it.

I read somewhere years ago, that proper torquing of the front lugs after a wheel install can greatly reduce the risk of warped rotors.

 

Every oil change

 

The answer to this is mostly going to depend on where you live. I'm in New England where the roads are salted like crazy and my rotors with 45k are rusted pretty bad. Pads are still good though but I'll be replacing the rotors when it comes time to do the pads.

 

Texas and still have meat on original pads rotors 84k.

my 08 I changed pads at 88k with hawk lts and turned rotors. Those lasted until 190k miles. Then put new pads rotors.

Driving style and city driving play a factor in it

 

I'm in NC, 78K, still original rotors and pads (changing pads soon). Drive like the old guy I am, though have hauled 1/2 ton bags/pallets of sand, gravel, stones, and pulled a small camper.

 

Thanks, needed a morning laugh!

 

I just did front pads on my 2018 at 50k miles. Rotors were fine. I will do the rear pads this fall.

 

I just read thru this....now I gotta check my sh1t this weekend. 72k all original.

 

As needed. If not warped and pads aren't getting severely grooved, then keep using existing rotors.

If you want to toss money at all and change them for piece of mind, that's up to you but not necessary.

I changed my rotors last year on my 2020 because I had warping and a shaky steering wheel. If it wasn't for that, I would have let them be.

 

throughout my life, I can honestly say - Brakes last longer if a man is the primary driver.

this is evidence based. I have a wife, daughter (19), son (22), and myself.

The only anomaly is our Tesla....as it rarely uses the actual brakes (regen).

and Toyota/Lexus brakes/rotors are very easy to change.

 

Toyota specifies a minimal thickness and runout for the rotor to be replaced. Don't have the numbers on top of my head.

My pads are almost done at 42k/4 years. One or both front rotors are warped since around 20k. Will be replacing both pads and rotors soon.

 

At 198K I still have original rotors. Pads changed around 60K to PowerStop Extreme Truck & Tow. Getting ready to change pads and rotors since just starting to feel a little pulsating in the pedal.

 

My 2010 has original brakes at 88,000 miles. My Mechanic says "maybe" I'll need pads at 100,000 miles or so. I believe where we drive and driving style, has quite a bit to do with most maintenance items, on these heaps.

 

I've heard this as well from more than one place, including a reputable source.

There's a reason why Discount Tire properly torques the lugs with a torque wrench instead of an air wrench, and you can see them do it?

Apparently "dealers" aren't so careful. I know I've had lug nuts put on so tight from a dealer that I couldn't get it off with a 6' breaker bar with me standing/bouncing on it.

 

When I swapped my needle bearing, I put a caliper on the rotors and measured the thickness. It was nearly identical in thickness to a new set I had ordered (OEM). 45K miles on the truck to date. Pads are about 30% remaining life. In the past, I've always done both rotors and pads, but I think I'll stick with only doing the pads and change them out within the next 10-15K.

 

To the guys that have changed out their rotors cause they were warped. What and when do you consider warped? Was it shaking during normal braking? Was it shaking only when rotors would get really hot? I have to double check but my rotors don't shake under normal day driving. But if I take it up to 100++mph or am speeding and on and off the brakes to where they are super hot, then I do get shaking of the steering wheel.

 

When I got my truck used at 98k, the steering wheel shook at highway speed when braking, long before they were hot.

Changing brake pads and rotors fixed the issue. While there I changed the brake fluid as well.

 

If you rotate your rotors every other time you rotate your tires they'll last longer.

Just kidding. I only replace them when they shake, ie warp. I don't bother turning rotors anymore because I can't find a shop who knows how to do it correctly. And I only buy new Toyota rotors because they last the longest and warp the least in my experience.

 

Severe rust after that many miles? Is it sitting a lot?

I never resurface rotors. I’d suggest only keeping rotors if they’re okayed by someone experienced. Pulsating brake pedal is almost certainly warped rotors. If it vibrates the steering wheel too your front rotors are warped (along with possibly the rear).

Also, +1 on the brake fluid. Brake fluid should be flushed every two years or so as it attracts water into the system which reducing braking power and causes rust in your braking system. Also, keep the cap on any open bottle of brake fluid. Open bottles are good to use for a matter of months.

 

You must do some heavy braking to wear out rear pads that quick or you leave the E brake on. I have put well over 100k on trucks and never replaced the rears. I would only change rotors if warped, metal on metal, or thickness under spec.

 

Running on OEM rotors at just over 80k miles.

 

I'm still upset and disappointed that my brake pads & rotors needed to be replaced (Front set) well the pads and rotors turned at 25k miles. Our family wagon 17 Burb went almost 80k on the oem pads and rotors before needing service.

 

I believe this is caused by severe over tightening of lugs. Dealers seem to do this for some reason.

 

LOL seriously. Hopefully the next set I'll be upgrading to something better (If something does exist)

 

I replace my rotors at my first pad job with good aftermarket ones as a general rule because they tend to have to be messed with more frequently after the first re surfacing. If I'm having someone go under a truck and do that first brake job I don't want to have to put it on a lift and do it again in a year. I want to get everything squared away and not have to worry about any of it for awhile. And Replacing rotors is usually cheaper both in the short run and long run. In that one visit it costs me less and if I leave with an entire new braking system with materials designed to work well together it's usually a few years before I have to do anything with it again.

 

Bought my truck in Dec/22 with about 75k miles on it. Changed the rotors and pads a few months ago. The rotors looked oem, very rusty, makes sense with our salted roads. Pads I’m assuming had been changed before.