Rear shock ?

So what do u guys use on rear shocks for lifted trucks. My concern. I run a fwc an added alcan leaf springs . Tailgate ontruck witout camper was 42 1/2 " an fox shocks would not connect. With camper on its 37" an shocks work. Great my concern is if I ever take camped off shocks will be to short. So what shock do folks use on your lifted trucks .

 

Sounds like you need a rear shock for a 4-6" lifted rear. Just search that, multiple brands have a shock for that height. I do not know if they would also work with your compressed height once the shell is on. At least rear shocks are easy to change.

 

Thanks trying to c if there is a rear lower bracket extention that I could add to the truck bracket to bring the shock bottom up a few inches

 

Don't think that exists, but they have things that extend the top. Normally not recommended but here is a thread on the topic with info and references in it.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-shock-extender.116238/

 

I’d pull the rear shocks off and raise the smear end off the ground. Measure full droop distance between upper and lower shock mounts.

Then, lift one front tire as high as you can without flipping your truck. This should compress the opposite rear corner till you’re on the bump stop. Measure shock mounts again.

Hope you can find a good shock that works with your max extension and compression measurements!


Now…. Are the springs broken in yet? When I put my Deavers on, they were super tall. Took quite a while to get them settled in.

 

Dam I like your positive thoughts on not settled in yet . 1 week old

 

This is how I would deal with it.

option 1 - Cyce the suspension as suggested, then try and find a shock that is close enough.

option 2 - The new leaf spring reduces the available up travel due to the additional thickness of the spring pack. Longer rod end for the shock shaft would likely be the easiest, just don’t know what options are available from Fox.

option 3 - Re-clock the shock mounts on the axle. Sounds extreme, but it’s not difficult.

 

Thanks

 

This might be the correct 1” longer rod end, definitely should call and talk to someone though. Might be other options available also. Need to make sure the added rod length doesn’t bottom out the shock when the bump stops are compressed. Going off the added spring pack thickness, 1” longer should be about right to keep the original compressed length.

https://accutuneoffroad.com/product/rod-end-3-895-oal-58-bearing-78-shaft-std/

Both of these companies have also been helpful answering suspension questions and getting parts from.

https://www.downsouthmotorsports.co...IElF8obfB9xdXnG5jO3H51UMze1ecvS0aAupsEALw_wcB

https://www.kartek.com/

 

Guess my inquiry is wrongly written. I want to inquire about the whole shock .like adding a bracket to the truck frame to bring the whole shock up higher. I have 3-"4"piston showing. So maybe raise unit up 3 an add taller bumpstops

 

Can you share some photos? Let’s see what we’re talking about here. Would be good to see the whole truck from the side, the rear, and anything that will show the rear suspension.

 

Here

 

I’d let those springs settle for a bit…. Drive it like you stole it with all that weight for a couple months and see how it sits.

Here’s how much shock shaft I have exposed at regular ride height:




That’s with Deaver U748 springs and TC shackles. Supposed to be 2” lift, but they’re giving more than that. Every bit of 3”, and they’re well broken in. Close to 50K miles on them and my truck is a fat pig.

My shocks are ADS’s “Deaver spec”. 11” stroke, if I remember correctly. I do hit full extension on the shock just before the springs max out on droop, and I am well into my bumps before the shocks are fully compressed.

 

Our springs are certainly different. I wasn’t able to keep the rear sway bar mounted beneath the axle. I had to rotate the mounts and locate the bar behind the axle because it was hitting springs.


And why is mine so dirty???

 

Ya says bar is another? Can you explain rotion to me thanks

 

The ubolts holding sway bar to axle spin 90 degrees so that the sway bar runs behind axle instead of under axle.
It puts the endlink connecting point back a little further for more clearance at the spring. Also adds some ground clearance.
In theory the sway bar is less effective when end link is not vertical now but I didn't feel any difference in handling.

 

Yup. As mentioned above^^^

the u-bolts and hardware simply get rotated 90° on the axle housing and the bar will move rearward about 4”. Also up about the same, which makes the links really close to the same effective length as when stock. Move the link top bolts to another hole. You’ve got 3 to choose from, and you’ll get it real close to perfect.

 

Thanks

 

Well I looked at that--- .what did u do with metal tube that runs along axial .thinking its the break line?

 

Plenty of room. Just crawled under and took a photo for you:



I can’t remember if I had to, but you may need to loosen the brake line R-clamps from the axle tube to get it slipped together, but it’ll all go right back into place. That RSB bracket isn’t much thicker than the U-bolt that was slid between the axle and brake line.

 

U think this will work. ?