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Rear Brake Adjustment, theory and practice.

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Aerindel, Dec 15, 2021.

  1. Jun 1, 2024 at 10:16 AM
    #61
    The Black Mamba

    The Black Mamba He must increase, but I must decrease - John 3:30

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    Imma keep it stock
    All sounds good to me :thumbsup:
     
  2. Jun 1, 2024 at 10:55 AM
    #62
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Check the name tag. You're in my world now.

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    We would need to see pictures of the prop valve further up. Where the bleeder valve is. It almost looks like it just broke off.
     
  3. Jun 1, 2024 at 1:22 PM
    #63
    TXTundraGuy23

    TXTundraGuy23 One piece at a time

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    Here are some pictures further upstream and a manual diagram. So I have the setup in the bottom diagram with just the blend prop valve. I don’t have all the stuff going on in the upper diagram. My truck has VSC so I guess that’s why it all looks different. Main reason for looking into this is that I’m planning on lifting the rear soon and I know some folks have had to fiddle with the LSPV when they lift to get their rear braking back to normal. I don’t think my setup has any “load sensing” ability. I’m no expert but I don’t see a mechanism or anything like on the non-vsc diagram.

    IMG_1381.jpg IMG_0360.jpg
     
    The Black Mamba and FirstGenVol like this.
  4. Jul 18, 2024 at 3:44 AM
    #64
    BroHon

    BroHon Everything's clock is ticking

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    Great info here, thanks everyone :fistbump:
    I have what I belive is a bastard HD leaf pack. The rear is pretty lifted and there is no lift bracket on the lower LSPV arm mount (at the axle). If my LSPV is still functional (prob hasn't moved in years) I think I could benefit from that lift bracket. So my next logical step would be determining how much I need to raise that lower mount, aka find how much higher it sits than "stock". I am up 1 size in tire from stock 245s to 265s, so there's another factor (assuming I am measuring from the wheel well.)
    Just so I'm straight in my head with it's function: The LSPV increases braking in the rear when load is applied.... correct?
    New bell cranks in hand and I'll be right in there this weekend.
    Taking any advice or comments:thumbsup:
     
  5. Jul 18, 2024 at 4:21 AM
    #65
    The Black Mamba

    The Black Mamba He must increase, but I must decrease - John 3:30

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    In addition to the LSPV relocation bracket, I’ve also read about guys using longer eyebolts to aid in this as well. Essentially, the further up the threads and away from the axle, the more “load” is simulated to engage the rear.
     
    BroHon[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Jul 18, 2024 at 8:20 AM
    #66
    shifty`

    shifty` We skipped the light fandango

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    Show us a pic of the current orientation. Mine is currently maxed out, and I have a relocation bracket to boot. If yours isn't, I'd attempt to max out before bothering with relocation.
     
    BroHon[QUOTED] likes this.
  7. Jul 18, 2024 at 8:33 AM
    #67
    BroHon

    BroHon Everything's clock is ticking

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    Yeah great idea, max it out with the threaded rod portion. I don't even know if it moves yet. BTW I never even bled the LSPV when I did all my brake work and full flushing of all fluid.:anonymous:
    I'll get a pic when I get back home.
     
  8. Jul 18, 2024 at 8:35 AM
    #68
    shifty`

    shifty` We skipped the light fandango

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    Bleeding just ensures you don't end up with a bunch of shit jammed up in the LSPV, which will probably cause it to ultimately fail in short order (maybe not, if it's a true pass-through).
     
    BroHon[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. Jul 18, 2024 at 8:42 AM
    #69
    BroHon

    BroHon Everything's clock is ticking

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    I've hit it with deepcreep a couple times but you know... MI thing.
    I've looked at this thing before and in my head It seems like bending the arm could give you quite a bit of adjustment as well
    EDIT: Unless that's like spring steel, I haven't had my hands on it to determine what it's made of.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2024
  10. Jul 18, 2024 at 1:42 PM
    #70
    BluegrapeVr6

    BluegrapeVr6 New Member

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    02 SR5 RC Desert Sand- ARB'd 4x4
    BOSS head Unit, Track Rack, Tint. MT Baja Legend EXP 16x9, Pro-Comp 69, Icon Titanium Rebound 17x8. Cant decide on Lift. ARB Rear. Bash Fab Sliders.
    I found mine to be quite a pain. I needed 3 days of PB and lots of heat while holding base w vice grips as to not bend.

    If your truck is similiar to mine ( non TRD W/ TOW pckg) the rear is a solid 3 " higher than front. I went up to 31." Tire and it def necessitated adjustment. Now that I have it dialed in I soak with PB Silicone spray weekly as im in Salt state and like to drift in muddy fields like a child. Sprap em off and lube them up monthly. I had good success with jacking rear and adjusting until slight drag is acheived. Pretty muched solved the sketchy panic braking.
     
    BroHon likes this.
  11. Jul 18, 2024 at 2:46 PM
    #71
    BroHon

    BroHon Everything's clock is ticking

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    Weight reduction, mostly rust.
    After looking closer at it, I think I may leave well enough alone. Or at least until I've soaked it a bunch of times. Maybe fill that boot in place and let her soak.
    But anyway, these pics show just how High I am.... o_O, and the angle of the arm.
    WARNING: To all you south of the salt belt guys, this contains some super graphic/cringe worthy photos... close your eyes.:facepalm:
    Rear shocks planned before next snowfall though ffs :eek:

    Drivers side
    20240718_142808.jpg


    Passengers side, about 1.25 to 1.5 higher :rofl:(PO wheel well "repair" is going fast now)
    20240718_142821.jpg

    Top of diff to bottom of bed-rib 13"
    20240718_143150.jpg

    Full shot of arm (and rusty carnage)
    20240718_142942.jpg

    Arm is pretty maxed out, I see maybe 1/4" of adjustment available
    EDIT: I guess maybe an inch or so if I back it up and go single nut.
    20240718_143451.jpg

    Pretty ugly little barnacle right there.
    20240718_143219.jpg

    I rarely carry any loads, but we will be moving in a few months and she will be earning her keep with some heavier loads, possibly pulling a trailer as well.
    Only ever had her loaded to the gills once, wood load. I took it easy, didn't feel unsafe, but it took a bit more to stop/brake.
    20230729_125902.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2024
    FrenchToasty likes this.
  12. Jul 18, 2024 at 2:53 PM
    #72
    BluegrapeVr6

    BluegrapeVr6 New Member

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    Inspect thosr fuel tank straps!
     
    BroHon likes this.
  13. Jul 18, 2024 at 3:00 PM
    #73
    BroHon

    BroHon Everything's clock is ticking

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    They are both brand new 2021($$$$DAMN expensive too), along with a new tank, but for sure could use some treatment :thumbsup: thx
    What I did notice is that cross member though, kind of important to hold the tank in place. 6lb gal x 24 = 144lbs.
     
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  14. Jul 19, 2024 at 5:14 PM
    #74
    BroHon

    BroHon Everything's clock is ticking

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    Red n tacky, Pack it in, 10 pumps in each side of das boot.
    In 25 years when they don't make these anymore, some poor best gener is going to thank me for doing this when he pulls them out in a junk yard.

    20240719_183145.jpg 20240719_183625.jpg
     
  15. Aug 2, 2024 at 7:56 PM
    #75
    Acatlin96

    Acatlin96 amateur breeze shooter

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    Something I did to get a few more threads of upward adjustment is swapping the two nuts that tighten the bracket down to the rod. So the longer nut is on bottom, and the shorter flanged nut is on top. gave me another 1/4-1/2” of adjustment
     
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  16. Dec 4, 2024 at 7:36 AM
    #76
    Braixen Infection

    Braixen Infection New Member

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    I'm needing to adjust my parking brake. It does not keep my passenger side adjusted. It does keep the drivers adjusted decently. I've noticed the drivers park cable is tight with the passenger cable super slack. I've tried adjusting the turn buckle under the cab area which tightened it all up a bit. I think I need some more there and will try again today. Is there a reason the passenger cable would be so slack? I had to manually adjust the rear brakes since my brakes were so poor and spongy. The drivers took one turn of the star wheel but the passenger took 8. Brakes were great after that. But fading slightly again and need adjustment. I was using the parking brake a lot but not recently since it's not been keeping them in check evenly.

    Imagine me being one of those weirdos who actually use a parking brake.
     
  17. Dec 4, 2024 at 7:51 AM
    #77
    BroHon

    BroHon Everything's clock is ticking

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    I would check the pivot point where the cable attaches to the axle. Lube it up and get it moving freely. Then lube up your BellCranks and make sure they are moving freely too. If that doesn't fix it open up the drum and find out what it's not advancing the star wheel.
    I just went through my parking brake system and replaced the bellcranks and got it working after what I am certain was a decade or more of not being used.
     
  18. Dec 4, 2024 at 8:06 AM
    #78
    Braixen Infection

    Braixen Infection New Member

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    I got under there and adjusted the turn buckle tighter. It took the slack out of the passenger side making it more equal to the drivers. The bell housing levers seem to be free moving when I pulled on the cables but likely should also be adjusted. Parking brake holds really strong! I checked it and it takes about 1800rpm to then "break" the brake lol! Going out for a drive in a bit to check how the brakes feel. I can also notice my parking brake petal feels much more firm when setting. Though I also noticed a few other things I should look at really soon while under the truck. Great......

    Dang I should count how many times I've said brake so far. This is going to become a habit I need to break lol.

    Brake
     
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  19. Dec 4, 2024 at 8:08 AM
    #79
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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  20. Dec 4, 2024 at 10:24 AM
    #80
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Something something Miller Lite

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    That's a shit ton better than mine. If I set my P brake and put it in drive it just starts going with a tap of the throttle. It basically just holds it at idle only.
     
  21. Dec 4, 2024 at 4:32 PM
    #81
    shifty`

    shifty` We skipped the light fandango

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    Ah, yes. Good ol’ broke brakes.
     
  22. Dec 4, 2024 at 6:27 PM
    #82
    PNW15

    PNW15 New Member

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    Haha there are two active threads on this at the same time.

    I really had a lot of luck following the manual.

    Disconnect cables, do bell cranks first. There are too many variables in the cabling to reliability get good braking without establishing a baseline at the brakes themselves.

    You can't adjust your way out of stuck cables or bushings etc
     
    shifty` and KNABORES like this.

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