Rear Brake Adjustment, theory and practice.

All sounds good to me

 

We would need to see pictures of the prop valve further up. Where the bleeder valve is. It almost looks like it just broke off.

 

Here are some pictures further upstream and a manual diagram. So I have the setup in the bottom diagram with just the blend prop valve. I don’t have all the stuff going on in the upper diagram. My truck has VSC so I guess that’s why it all looks different. Main reason for looking into this is that I’m planning on lifting the rear soon and I know some folks have had to fiddle with the LSPV when they lift to get their rear braking back to normal. I don’t think my setup has any “load sensing” ability. I’m no expert but I don’t see a mechanism or anything like on the non-vsc diagram.

 

Great info here, thanks everyone
I have what I belive is a bastard HD leaf pack. The rear is pretty lifted and there is no lift bracket on the lower LSPV arm mount (at the axle). If my LSPV is still functional (prob hasn't moved in years) I think I could benefit from that lift bracket. So my next logical step would be determining how much I need to raise that lower mount, aka find how much higher it sits than "stock". I am up 1 size in tire from stock 245s to 265s, so there's another factor (assuming I am measuring from the wheel well.)
Just so I'm straight in my head with it's function: The LSPV increases braking in the rear when load is applied.... correct?
New bell cranks in hand and I'll be right in there this weekend.
Taking any advice or comments

 

In addition to the LSPV relocation bracket, I’ve also read about guys using longer eyebolts to aid in this as well. Essentially, the further up the threads and away from the axle, the more “load” is simulated to engage the rear.

 

Show us a pic of the current orientation. Mine is currently maxed out, and I have a relocation bracket to boot. If yours isn't, I'd attempt to max out before bothering with relocation.

 

Yeah great idea, max it out with the threaded rod portion. I don't even know if it moves yet. BTW I never even bled the LSPV when I did all my brake work and full flushing of all fluid.
I'll get a pic when I get back home.

 

Bleeding just ensures you don't end up with a bunch of shit jammed up in the LSPV, which will probably cause it to ultimately fail in short order (maybe not, if it's a true pass-through).

 

I've hit it with deepcreep a couple times but you know... MI thing.
I've looked at this thing before and in my head It seems like bending the arm could give you quite a bit of adjustment as well
EDIT: Unless that's like spring steel, I haven't had my hands on it to determine what it's made of.

 

I found mine to be quite a pain. I needed 3 days of PB and lots of heat while holding base w vice grips as to not bend.

If your truck is similiar to mine ( non TRD W/ TOW pckg) the rear is a solid 3 " higher than front. I went up to 31." Tire and it def necessitated adjustment. Now that I have it dialed in I soak with PB Silicone spray weekly as im in Salt state and like to drift in muddy fields like a child. Sprap em off and lube them up monthly. I had good success with jacking rear and adjusting until slight drag is acheived. Pretty muched solved the sketchy panic braking.

 

After looking closer at it, I think I may leave well enough alone. Or at least until I've soaked it a bunch of times. Maybe fill that boot in place and let her soak.
But anyway, these pics show just how High I am.... , and the angle of the arm.
WARNING: To all you south of the salt belt guys, this contains some super graphic/cringe worthy photos... close your eyes.
Rear shocks planned before next snowfall though ffs

Drivers side



Passengers side, about 1.25 to 1.5 higher (PO wheel well "repair" is going fast now)


Top of diff to bottom of bed-rib 13"


Full shot of arm (and rusty carnage)


Arm is pretty maxed out, I see maybe 1/4" of adjustment available
EDIT: I guess maybe an inch or so if I back it up and go single nut.


Pretty ugly little barnacle right there.


I rarely carry any loads, but we will be moving in a few months and she will be earning her keep with some heavier loads, possibly pulling a trailer as well.
Only ever had her loaded to the gills once, wood load. I took it easy, didn't feel unsafe, but it took a bit more to stop/brake.

 

Inspect thosr fuel tank straps!

 

They are both brand new 2021($$$$DAMN expensive too), along with a new tank, but for sure could use some treatment thx
What I did notice is that cross member though, kind of important to hold the tank in place. 6lb gal x 24 = 144lbs.

 

Red n tacky, Pack it in, 10 pumps in each side of das boot.
In 25 years when they don't make these anymore, some poor best gener is going to thank me for doing this when he pulls them out in a junk yard.

 

Something I did to get a few more threads of upward adjustment is swapping the two nuts that tighten the bracket down to the rod. So the longer nut is on bottom, and the shorter flanged nut is on top. gave me another 1/4-1/2” of adjustment