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Question to some Experts (Rear Brakes/Bearings)

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by triharder, Dec 17, 2019.

?

Should i replace my bearings?

  1. Yes

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  2. No (clearly the in-out motion of the shaft is not dependt of

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
Multiple votes are allowed.
  1. Dec 17, 2019 at 5:30 AM
    #1
    triharder

    triharder [OP] Sorry, Not Sorry

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2017
    Member:
    #9745
    Messages:
    218
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Southern, Maine
    Vehicle:
    2010 RWB Black
    Billstein 6112/5160's, coachbuilder spacer on driver side/ 20" rockstar wheels/ 33" nitto ridge grappers/SS Brake lines (or as most people write Break), Painted Calipers/Powercoated Tow hooks/pocket flairs/heated seats,bed leds/line-x liner/xtang trifold/tow mirrors/Stereo Work/Compustar Remote Starter/ retrofit Morimoto Minin H1 and switch back LEDs/ plenty I'm forgetting
    I know this post is useless without pictures but i'll try to explain it as I go.

    I pulled my brakes off a few years back to upgrade the rubber lines to SS and paint the calipers. (I removed the existing rotors (I believe they were OEM rotors as they were black on the none braking surface and handling the upper east coast weather well). No rubbing noises heard at this time.

    Upon pulling the calipers I noticed the inner braking side of both of the rear rotors were not rubbed clean as well as the braking surface was chipping.cracking/lifting. So I ended up buying new rotors all the way round. (Napa brand rotors, whatever their highest quality ones are).
    Replaced slide pins as well and groomed all sliding surfaces (this seemed to really help with feedback and feel for the brakes).

    Upon installation I drove around the neighborhood and had the dreaded rubbing noise from the rear rotors to the dust cover(rear brake holders).

    figured this was just the new rotors not matching the factory specifications for dimensions, I managed to get them them to work without making noise. (grooming the dust shield or i figured the rubbing would wear itself over time)

    So fast forward 2 years and about 15k miles.

    Truck felt like it was sticking upon going forward after stopping. Also my parking brake was not working (as I didn't set it correctly 2 years ago). I assumed the rust belt rusted the parking brakes in weird locations and this was causing the hesitation/rolling issues I was experiencing.

    Well i'm due for an inspection this winter and figured I'd get around to fixing/readjusting the parking brake assembly.

    With the rear axle off the ground you could easily replicate the sticking with the wheels. So i pulled the rotors.

    the rotors had actually wore a hole in the dust covers (just in the exposed area rear upper corner of the dust shield (between 1 and 3 o'olock on the driver/ 9 & 11 on the passenger side). (insert picture here, sorry)

    Also noted the parking brake cable was way too tight and sticking (rust belt). (insert picture here) I attempted to free that up (semi-successfully, needs more lubricate and to be used more). Cables are lubricated well and free, just the arm that rotates at the mechanism is not free where its bolted over the frame.

    Back tot he rotors. I used the 4-1/2 grinder to knock down the inner lip (the area that was in contact with the dust shield) until it was free of this area (still a tiny area of rubbing I can't see, as i rotate it rubs briefly (only a few degrees as i spin it fully).

    I'm 500 miles away from the truck and trying to decide if this condition was actually wheel bearing related.

    Finally my question:

    Would bearings cause that rotor to make contact with dust shields? (truck has 126k on it 2010). Was this an in-properly machined rotor from Napa or was this a bearing issue causing the rubbing).

    I did not measure the replaced rotors (probably should've) and I did not even consider bearings.

    When i get back from work trip I'll jack the truck up again and feel for play in the bearings (job looks frustrating but not too difficult as I have a press).

    I do notice a humming noise (which i thought was just the normal truck noise for the rear axle or ridge grapplers).

    I bought truck at 90k so noises that existed at 90k I assumed where just normal to the truck.

    Anybody have any suggestions. (I'll try to add pictures next time i pull the wheels).
     
  2. Dec 18, 2019 at 11:20 AM
    #2
    kparrow

    kparrow New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2018
    Member:
    #16363
    Messages:
    964
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kevin
    Nampa, ID
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tundra DC 4x4 5.7l V8 Blue Streak Metallic
    Goodyear UltraTerrain AT 275/70/r18, Stoptech Cryo Slotted Rotors/Hawk LTS Pads, DECKED, and lots more!
    Mine did that too and I figured it was just bigger rotors and it’s just the dust shield so I didn’t care. Next time I have it in the air I’m going to shake the tires and see if I get bearing play and if so, bearing time. Trying to avoid that because I don’t have a press or the tool to press the bearing assemblies off and don’t want to spend the money on it. Also don’t want to pay the shop prices. I don’t have a welder so can’t fab my own tool if I went and bought a press. I would have to look and see if a diff/axle shop in my area could press off/on the bearing assemblies, I can do everything else easily. I don’t hear any whine or noise
     

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