Problems with injector pulse after rodent damage

Hi. Took the 2015 to the shop. 5.7l TRD pro
Rodent destroyed driver side fuel rail harness. I bought a new harness piece and repaired the old one. After replacing, cylinder 1 will not fire with either the original or replacement part. Using a noid light, cylinder 1 won't light up. They tried replacing the injector, looking for more rodent damage, but can't find anything. The next thing they want to try is to replace the ECU, which I am very skeptical about.

This is the closest I can find to a similar problem but there are no shared answers.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/no-fuel-injector-pulse.103877/

Looking for any insight before i throw an expensive part at it, erase my tune, etc

 

I'd first check for ground continuity to make sure you aren't shorted somewhere. If that isn't the issue, then this popped up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLMEYgEb2Lw

Looks like you'll need to swap a transistor. I checked briefly to ID the one being used but "C5664" seems obsolete now. You'll have to find the original datasheet to spec a replacement.

 

I did both. I purchased a new, used harness as well as repaired the old copy of the old harness to make sure the replacement wiring part wasn't bad.

 

Interesting, I guess this does happen? The ecu is supposed to be very protected from shorts like this according to the people I talked to. I think it will be easier to send it in for repair or replace it than to fix it.

 

They've had it apart three times, they can't find continuity issues even though that seems like the obvious fix

 

I found $650 just now and am in Florida, if you can find a company name I'd probably use them, ty

 

If the dealership, or you, don't have experience with swapping ICs, I wouldn't start learning on your ECM unless you're willing to take the likely risk that it won't work and you'll need to replace. But before buying a new one, needing the VIN programmed, and getting your tune ported, I'd drop it off to an electronics repair, or a phone repair place. Swapping out an SOIC is actually very easy with the right tools and a bit of experience. It doesn't take an automotive specialist, just a hot air gun, solder gun, flux paste and copper braid.

 

The trick there is finding the right resistor. I'm not sure how I'd go about doing that unless the shop I took it to had some idea. I'm willing to give it a shot but on that path am stuck at "finding the data sheet" you suggested in post #3

TJ, ty for the lead but that company said they couldn't help me and suggested A1 Cardone.


Ecu part is: 896610cp45

 

*transistor
Let the electronics repair guy figure that out. The replacement will have to match the pinout and allowable voltage ranges, which isn't something you want to risk getting wrong.

 

Yes, transistor, sorry. I'm just thinking that a cell phone repair store is going to decline unless I tell them exactly what to do. Automotive based electronics repair is a specialty that I'm not sure we have locally. The auto electronics shop I've used in the past would diagnose to this point but then probably just swap parts. Maybe you know a place I could send it? I'm in North Florida, 32303

 

No, sorry, I don't. Unsure about the cell phone stores because I've never used one - was just thinking out loud since there are numerous in every major city and they do this exact work. Worth a call at the minimum. If they decline then look for a general electronics repair shop.

 

I bit the bullet and ordered a replacement ECU from Fred Anderson Toyota. It was that same online parts storefront but with the best combination of no tax + free shipping. Hopefully this fixes it and I can then fix the old ECU at my leisure or just deal with getting my tune put back on.