Plug and Play Wiring Harness for a 2016 Tundra and Leer 100XL

Hello all,
I was told there is someone on this forum that does Plug and Play wiring setups for my situation.
I can't remember the name it was something like DogKicker or something

I have a 2016 Tundra that I just purchased a Leer 100XL topper for
I need a plug and play wiring harness for this set up.

I want it to include,
1) Third Brake light
2) 12 Volt to interior Topper light
3) 12 Volt Aux
4) 12 Volt charge aux battery (This may be the same as number 3 - I am not sure)

Please let me know if I am barking up the right tree (reference to the dog thing above LOL)

Thanks

JoeyPorkChops

 

Close, I think you're looking for PuppyPunter hahaha, that said, it doesn't look like he's making them anymore:
Plug and Play Brake taps | Toyota Tundra Forum
Tundra 2014 - 2021 Brake T Harness | FBC Harness Solutions

My last truck was an F-150 with a Leer topper that came with this installed in the topper when I bought it used:
Truck Topper or Camper Shell Fuse Box and Wire Harness Kit



Not a plug and play solution, but this is a summary of what you'd need to do:

You can see in this pic it has the wires at the bottom that are for the 6-POS MALE connections in the instructions above. You'd ignore figuring out the green and blue wires unless your topper has power lock. For the wires you'd be using without the power lock/unlock topper:
1) Red/White CHMSL: locate easiest place to tap, could tap the taillight brakes for this, or tap the 3rd brake light in the cab, run a wire out/back to the fuse box.
3) Red Dome: Use an add-a-circuit in the engine fuse panel and tap this, run your wire along the chassis and back up into to the topper fuse box:
4)Black Ground: find a ground point, plenty of spots around under the bed.
6) Red/Black Auxiliary: You could skip this unless your topper has power lock/unlock or if you wanted to add a small charger in your truck bed. If you want either of those, like instructions say, run a fused wired directly from battery using a 12 or 10 gauge wire with a 20 amp inline fuse. You'd end up with an inline fuse holder coming off the battery, and the add-a-circuit coming from the engine fuse box, in a wire loom together that you'd then route along the chassis to the bed.

Then, you'd want to grab 4 (or 6 or 8 depending on options) of these male pins: Brake and Dome Light Male Wire End Connector


so that you could make your own wires like in the smaller picture above to go into the 2 4-pin output connectors:


and then you'd end up with wires from two 4 pin connectors here running to your third brake light and interior dome light. If you wanted to, you could add bare wire ends coming off the 4-POS (Bottom) Male plug on the aux 1 and ground wire and connect those to a small USB charger or something, just have to make sure you didn't leaving anything plugged into it with the truck off for a long time, could also add a switch you'd have to flip to turn the charger on.

Happy to draw up a diagram/give more detailed instructions/part links etc. if you want to DIY it. The fuse box itself is ~$65, the pins would be ~$6, and the other wiring etc. would maybe be ~$30, total cost to DIY maybe $100. With parts and labor etc. I would guess a truck accessory store would charge maybe $300-$400 to do it.




All that said, you could do this route which would be more plug and play

Diode Dynamics sell these plug and play harnesses that are normally used for their backup light pods, but I think you could use one to get power for the topper interior dome light and the 3rd brake light, only thing I'd be concerned about here is if it would make the truck think you have a trailer attached.

Get one of these:

Stage Series 7-pin Single-Output Trailer Wiring Harness

Get this 2 pack of inline fuse holders for extra security/fusing the light wires:

$5 Inline Fuse Holder 12V 2 Pack, 18 AWG Waterproof Fuse Holder 11.8", In line fuse holders 12V with 2 Pcs Standard Car Fuses 10A Blade Fuse Holder for Automotive, Marine by XIOGZAXI

Amazon.com: Inline Fuse Holder 12V 2 Pack, 18 AWG Waterproof Fuse Holder 11.8 Inch, In line fuse holders 12V with 2 Pcs Standard Car Fuses 10A Blade Fuse Holder for Automotive, Marine by XIOGZAXI : Automotive

and then a 1 amp blade fuse for the 3rd brake light and 5 amp blade fuse for the topper dome light:

$5 Cooper Bussmann BP/ATC-AL8-RP ATC Low Amp Fuse Assortment

Amazon.com: Cooper Bussmann BP/ATC-AL8-RP ATC Low Amp Fuse Assortment : Tools & Home Improvement

And then to wire everything up, could use a test light or ask Diode Dynamics customer support which wires are which, or reference this:

You'd end up doing something like this:



You could solder the splice points, or use butt splices to make the wires T off of the aux 12v + and trailer brake or 3rd brake/CHMSL wire in the cab.


Last option for just the topper dome light and the 3rd brake light would be to 1) run an add-a-circuit from the engine fuse panel dome circuit above, back to the bed to wire to the topper dome light and then 2) splice into the 3rd brake light wire in the cab or one of the brake light wires in a tail light.

 

WOW
WOW
WOW

Thank you SOOOO Much

I really appreciate your help

gonna be a few weeks until I can get to it but I will let you know what come of it

Thanks a million

JoeyPorkChops

 

For sure. In the meantime, you could also reach out to Diode Dynamics and ask them if someone’s done something similar using one of their trailer harnesses for topper wiring and if there have been any issues with the truck thinking a trailer is connected, I read in the customer questions for the product page (for the double output one i think) they said with the output wires they have, running light, reverse light, and ground, it doesn’t affect the truck thinking a trailer is connected, which by that logic you could just use those wires only downside is your topper dome light would only have power when the truck is running. Could also ask them if they’d be willing to do a custom harness that has wire outputs for the trailer brake wire, 12v accessory wire, and ground, and they could even skip the deutsch connector and just leave bare wire ends for you to connect to.

 

Man I am totally impressed with how much you know - I wish you were my neighbor - LOL (not trying to be creepy)

I bet you you will forget more about this stuff than I will ever know. Again thank you very much. To follow up on your most recent post.

I just reached out to "Diode Dynamics" thanks for that tip

1) Regarding wiring the topper dome light directly to the engine compartment battery, I was thinking to avoid the chance of running down the engine (truck starting battery) I would add an Aux battery somewhere. Not sure where but probably in the bed/topper area. That is why I am interested in the aux battery charging capability (number 4 of my original post). Any thoughts on that plan?

2) Also, I was thinking of running a "jumper wire" from the bed light (the one switched inside the cab) to inside the topper as a second source of light if needed. Again your thoughts on this idea?

 

No worries at all lol and truth be told I am by no means an electrical expert, more of a tinkerer/intermediate level. Plenty of other folks on the forum that would more rightfully deserve that title lol.

For #1, you would be using an add-a-circuit like this:

$15 BioFuse 12 AWG Low Profile Mini ATT Quick TAP KIT: 2 Add-A-Circuit Car Fuse Tap Adapters, 2 Each (10A 20A) LP-Mini Blade Fuses, 4 Zip Ties + Fuse Puller

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QV8Q3BW

and then plugging it into the dome light circuit in the engine fuse panel above. This would ensure that your topper light would only have power when that circuit has power, which I think is when the truck is unlocked or key is in the accessory position. Do you have a light in your actual bed? The only one I have on my '21 is the switched one mounted up in the third brake light. If you have a light in your bed, you can probably tap that circuit to grab power for the topper dome light, but would need to do some digging into the electrical wiring diagrams to make sure it's safe.

To have an extra battery in the bed or a "dual battery" setup is a bigger undertaking. The most simple way I can think of doing it would be to get a second battery, and then get an add-a-battery type setup like this:

$142 Blue Sea Systems 7650 Add-A-Battery Kit

Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems 7650 Add-A-Battery Kit : Blue Sea Systems: Automotive

and then you'd also want to get some heavy gauge wire, probably ~0 or 2 gauge, and run a big ol fused wire from your engine battery, to the truck bed, to the add-a-battery kit, to the new battery, and then from the new battery, you could add a fuse panel for adding accessories, one of which could be your topper dome light. You'd still need to tap something for the topper third brake light like 1) a taillight 2) the trailer brake light wire or 3) CHMSL (center high mount stop lamp) factory third brake ligh ton your truck.


I'm sure there are tons of examples online from people doing truck bed camping, off-roading etc. that show good ways/setups for adding a second battery in your bed.

I guess I should have started by asking, what's your end goal? Do you want to have just the topper dome light and third brake light work? Or in addition to those two do you want a small ~10-20 amp capable circuit for plugging in small electronics in the truck bed? Or are you planning to go camping/off-roading etc. and want a second battery to power bigger electronics?

You could also not add a second battery, but still run a fused power wire from your main battery back to the bed and add a fuse panel for accessory circuits (similar to the TAG one I originally referenced but with more slots for circuits). If doing that, you'd probably want to add a relay so that the fuse panels only getting power when the truck is on or unlocked or keys in the accessory position.

All in all there are lots of different ways to go about things, main thing is just figuring out what your end goal is and from there, figuring out the safest/easiest/cheapest way of accomplishing the goal.

 

The thanks keep coming

My situation is this, I live on a SMALL farm and I use my truck as my daily driver to and from work everyday
I tow trailers with it (2016 Tundra) so I absolutely need the truck tow brakes and lights and everything to work
I charge the battery on what ever trailer I am pulling through the Aux battery wire
I have a 12,000 lb. wench that I use every so often. I have not fully wired it in yet. Currently when I need it I run jumper cables to it.

This summer, my wife and I are joining a friend that goes to CO. every summer and does back country camping.

We will be camping in a base camp and then doing more "Off Roading" camping over nights from the base camp. That is when we will use the topper as a camper.

We are hoping to be able to keep ourselves and the dog comfortable, along with food and water for about 3 - 5 day at a time.
we will throw the canoe on top of the topper and cab (both will have roof racks). With the canoe on top it will be harder to charge things with solar. So I am planning on relying on a good charging system and as efficient utilities as possible to not drain batteries too fast.

I hope that gives you a clearer idea of what my idea is.

JoeyPorkChops

 

Oh yah

I was going to add an additional light into the topper somewhere that connects to the bed light I mentioned earlier
I want to be able to turn it on and off from inside the truck cab as I am driving.
I won't use it when we are in the topper we will use the light that is the powered by the topper/camper specific battery.

I hope that makes sense.

JPC

 

Ahh yeah totally so you've got multiple needs/ambitions lol. In that case I would definitely start looking into doing a dual battery setup. Few different routes you can go.

I think the cheapest option/easiest option would probably be doing the Blue Sea add-a-battery type thing, wired to a deep cycle battery mounted somewhere maybe under the bed (Under Vehicle Battery Mount - HiddenPower | Torklift International) and then a fuse panel for accessories. Could also consider a small power inverter if you have any AC power needs. Not sure how solar would tie in, but other option would be doing something like a DC-DC charger setup. etc. I was just skimming this guy's site and it looks pretty simplistic: The Ultimate Overland Dual Battery and Solar System - Frugal Fill



If you're wanting to have another bed light you can turn on while driving, you'll already be up in the CHMSL so you could branch off there for both your toppers dome light and 3rd third brake light and avoid messing with the a trailer T harness, but I still wouldn't rule it out if Diode says it would be fine as it would be a lot easier to route wires from the trailer harness up to your topper than from the CHSML to your topper.

 

Thanks

I have to let you got
I will check back on Monday