Please help! No door locks

Hello! I ran into an issue after installing a back up camera in my 04 DC Tunda SR5. After figuring everything out I thought I had it all right. I patched into the back up light signal wire to send a signal to my head unit which works well! But sadly after putting everything back together my door locks do not work with the truck off. They do work with the truck on! Please help! If anyone has had this before. Thanks!!

 

Give us more details. Did you only wire up the camera, not a new radio? Which wiring adapter did you use? Do the brake and tail lights work? Locks work when the vehicle is on? You sure you tapped the correct wire out back? Any fuses in the dash popped?

 

Thanks for the response! The radio was new but already installed and working properly before this. I used Napa positaps. Also not sure if I tapped the right one but when I put it into reverse the head unit switches to rear view camera mode. No fuses I could find at all that are bad. And yes the locks work but only when the truck has power on!

 

When trying with truck off, are you using remote or via key in door ?
When trying with truck on, are you using driver side switch ?
Have you double checked the route you used when running the camera wires to the radio for connectors you might have bumped ?

 

I have double checked connections and everything, from what I can tell everything is good. But I am no electrician. I’ve tried both the switch and the remote and neither work with the truck off. Thanks for the reply!

 

Does the vehicle have a dealer-installed alarm, or an aftermarket alarm? Not talking about the stock keyless system, I'd be looking for an extra surface-mount LED somewhere on the dash, and a black (or sometimes) blue box with lots of T-tap connections under the driver side dash.

 

Have you tried with the key to unlock door, which would help to eliminate a few things.

 

No aftermarket alarm system, from what I can tell everything is stock. Also using the manual key doesn’t trigger any locking through the rest of the truck

 

Can you tell us or preferably show us with picture which wire you tapped into in the back end.

Also, do your power windows work ?

 

Here is the photo! But when I disconnect the cable from it the problem still remains

 

I guess my next question may be the same as Bubba's: Since that's a positap (good man!) and you can easily undo it: What happens if you undo that connection?

Really, I don't feel that's the correct way to wire up your camera. It's better to grab power from the tail light. I suspect when you disconnect that connection, things may work again. But I didn't look at the wiring diagram to confirm that's the wrong wire.

 

(PS - this is how I personally wire and recommend others to wire up their cams)

 

That was my first thought… which did not end up working. Huge bummer. But I will retire it to that then!

 

Can you walk us back through how you wired things? You didn't hook the blue wire up to the reverse wire on your radio, did you?

 

That’s exactly what I did…

 

So wait ... how is the camera getting power? Just a constant 12v feed, or are you tying that blue wire and combining it with the camera's yellow trigger wire and the radio's reverse camera input?

 

I wired the power cable for the camera to a constant 12v feed behind the head unit. Using the blue wire as the trigger for the head unit to switch to reverse mode.

 

I'll ask this one again....

I agree....while it may not fix the door lock issue, tail light hookup is preferable.

Don't feel the conductor tied into at the IL2 connector is best even if it does work....scratching head.
I know I mentioned earlier but given your working in driver kick panel, I'd definitely triple check the connectors in that area. The IL2 connector is close to the connector that controls driver master switch that heads to the Body ECU.



Enjoy your Memorial and good luck....it's cookout time in our neck of the woods

 

Okay thank you! I really appreciate the help guys, I will work on that. Where did you get that diagram?

 

The power windows do work when the truck is on!

 

I threw it together in figuring out your hookup to IL2 in case there was a correlation to your problem.

If you do most of your work, there is a download to 1st Gen Tundra EWD(electrical wiring diagrams) somewhere in the Mega thread.

Or you can get it where it originated from courtesy of @RainMan_PNW

Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum

 

Okay thank you! I’m gona give it a shot…

 

Remember Occam's Razor: When faced with multiple explanations for a phenomenon, the simplest one is likely the most accurate. If it worked before the camera, but doesn't work after the camera, something you did while wiring up the camera probably caused this.

The only thing I can think of, if that's all you did was wire in the camera, is you either picked the wrong jumper and shorted something, or you didn't fully secure a wire and/or harness somewhere, like the back of the center-dash.

If you have an alarm under the dash you're maybe not aware of (wouldn't be the first person, won't be the last) you may've popped a fuse on its brain box - virtually every aftermarket alarms are tied into the door locks and windows to allow the alarm to roll up/down windows and unlock/lock doors. Popping a fuse on the expansion board would look a lot like what you're describing. Some dealers quietly installed alarms on vehicles as an upcharge-able feature.

 

Shifty, you’re such a great help and I really appreciate it. After disconnecting everything and doing it the right way I think you’re onto something…. How do I go about getting to those fuses and replacing them? Thanks!!!

 

I would defer to @BubbaW on the fuses and wiring. I thought he covered it pretty well above. I have issues with trying to figure out what’s in the engine bay versus in the dash fuse box, and he would be a better candidate to see what line you tapped into and wha impact it might’ve had downstream on other circuits.

 

What are the symptoms today....with key and remote ?

If it's indeed a fuse, I would suspect the 20A PWR NO 1 and possibly the 20A PWR NO 2 fuses located in the Interior Fuse Panel.

Also take a good look at that grey connector where wires were spliced into it. That connector plays an important part for the door lock circuit.