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Payload capacity: reducing weight for campers? Also let’s see those slide ins

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by samabbott06, Jan 18, 2025.

  1. Jan 18, 2025 at 10:38 PM
    #1
    samabbott06

    samabbott06 [OP] New Member

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    2001 AC Limited 4x4 3” suspension and 3” body lift. Looking to haul over the 1366lb payload for a slide in camper. Been scouring the forums and it doesn’t seem like there’s a way to increase payload at all.

    My thoughts would be to remove anything unnecessary (to me): rear seats, hitch, bed liner, ??

    Unfortunately I found a great deal on a camper hauled by another 1st gen, claims 1900lbs dry weight which seems insane to me. Guy said he was using airbags but I have no idea how he didn’t ruin his axles or bearings.

    Not gonna buy that one, way too far over for my risk tolerance, but would like to make some room to get this 1/2 ton closer to a 5/8 ton and maybe be able to haul some kind of slide in closer to 1200lbs.

    Any other suggestions or experience hauling over capacity? I’d rather not tow something as it wouldn’t suit my purposes.
     
  2. Jan 18, 2025 at 10:41 PM
    #2
    455h0le_dachshund

    455h0le_dachshund Death machine and man in love

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    I would think custom/heavy duty leaf springs, maybe air bags, and re-gearing would be an absolute must.

    With the body lift, I'd be concerned about supporting the bed.
     
  3. Jan 18, 2025 at 10:52 PM
    #3
    samabbott06

    samabbott06 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah I bought the truck with it and am going to take it off, even just for the looks.
     
  4. Jan 19, 2025 at 1:34 AM
    #4
    Tundra family

    Tundra family New Member

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    Not a 1st gen but I haul a slide in that is over payload on my 2.5 by quite a bit. I didn't go airbags because they require too much attention, sumo springs for the win. I think as you drive it for the conditions and don't go romping over huge bumps you'll be okay. I did remove the rear seats and everything behind them, along with small stuff like floor mats and whatnot, and I keep it below a half tank of fuel for the most part.
     
  5. Jan 19, 2025 at 1:41 AM
    #5
    455h0le_dachshund

    455h0le_dachshund Death machine and man in love

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    Also a rear sway bar
     
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  6. Jan 19, 2025 at 4:18 AM
    #6
    Elevatorguy

    Elevatorguy Yotas and JD Green!

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    You will never legally increase your payload.
     
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  7. Jan 19, 2025 at 4:22 AM
    #7
    Tundra family

    Tundra family New Member

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    Nobody actually cares, especially dot.
     
  8. Jan 19, 2025 at 5:26 AM
    #8
    Elevatorguy

    Elevatorguy Yotas and JD Green!

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    Until someone is injured or worse from an over weight truck. Carry on..
     
  9. Jan 19, 2025 at 5:42 AM
    #9
    jerryallday

    jerryallday New Member

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  10. Jan 19, 2025 at 5:50 AM
    #10
    Tundra family

    Tundra family New Member

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    Which is about 5% of all accidents, including commercial vehicles. I've got almost 3000 miles on this set-up and haven't came remotely close to crashing it, because I don't drive like a dumbass. Now when I didn't have the camper and I just had a fast as hell pickup... That's a different story. Drive it like it's overweight and you know it and you will most likely never have a problem.
     
  11. Jan 19, 2025 at 6:51 AM
    #11
    MT-Tundra

    MT-Tundra Agnostic Gnostic

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    You'll eventually trash your truck. It's best not to even think about these trucks as 1/2 ton. I've driven a lot of domestic 1/2 ton trucks for jobs, and our Tundras are not nearly as stout. They're better in almost every other way, but they weren't built for hauling heavy weight.

    I'd be comfortable hauling a slide-in that was in the 1,300lb wet weight neighborhood. Unfortunately those are rare. You're looking at a newer,~$20,000+ Four Wheel or something similar. Or older, "empty-shell" campers like mine.

    You can go a bit over payload and be fine. Over time stuff will wear out faster than it would have otherwise, but in my opinion (which is really worth nothing), it's safe if you drive defensively.

    I feel you, though. I've run into the same thing. Most true slide-in pop-up campers are too heavy for our trucks. You can get a Four Wheel with minimal appliances that's in the 850lb range. And you'll pay money for it (currently somewhere around $27,000 with minimal appliances). Otherwise, it's tough.

    The stock suspension isn't up to any real weight. I had an 860lb slide-in in my truck for about a month during hunting season last fall. I have Sumo Springs. My truck wasn't sagging, it was actually just level. Seemed ok. But after removing the camper, it's clear my rear suspension is done. Jarring anytime I drive over any kind of bump/dip in the road. So I'm looking at new leaf springs and I'll need to replace the rear shocks I just put in earlier in the year.

    Airbags are a great option. I had them on a Tacoma, because I had a topper, tons of crap in the back, often a 70lb canoe on top and I regularly pulled a trailer with ~300lb tongue weight. I had zero problems with them. Yep, you need to air them up and down depending on the load you're hauling, but for me it was completely worth it. It was just one more step in a several step process I had to go through to hook up the trailer anyway. On the Tundra, the Sumo Springs were perfect for a topper, some gear and my trailer. But not up to the job of nearly 900lbs directly in the back of the truck. Not in our 1st gens. Maybe with HD leaf springs, which is something I've considered. But not with stock leafs.

    So...your brakes will suffer. Your wheel bearings will suffer. If you don't want your transmission to grenade, you'll need to always drive with OD off. Some people may not mind, but for me this is actually a big deal. The difference between OD or not for longer trips is huge. Driving down the interstate for hours with OD locked out means much higher rpm, more vibration, much worse gas mileage. For me that makes me seriously reconsider whether I'd take the camper on trips down to the desert or other longer road trips, which I had been really excited about before.

    And all that is with a camper within your payload limit.


    Tundra Family (who posted above) has a newer Tundra and they're obviously a different beast. My Tundra is absolutely more HD than my Tacoma. But it's really not a full-size truck. It can handle a slide in camper, but only very specific, bare-bones or very expensive models.

    All IMO.

    image.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2025
    Mustanley likes this.
  12. Jan 19, 2025 at 8:20 AM
    #12
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    You actually CAN increase your payload. Your GVWR is set, but what the vehicle weighs is not. Reduce vehicle weight, increase available payload. There are not a lot of places to save weight though. Wheel tire combos, spare tire, tailgate, rear seats, stereo equipment, interior panels, lightweight seat swap, sound deadening etc. won’t make the truck very enjoyable to drive though.
     
  13. Jan 19, 2025 at 12:08 PM
    #13
    Tundra family

    Tundra family New Member

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    Can vouch. You can technically increase GVWR by doing chassis modifications, things like boxing the frame and swapping a heavier axle, That's class 6 truck stuff.
     
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  14. Jan 19, 2025 at 12:17 PM
    #14
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    I don’t believe there is any certifying service here in the US like in Australia to change your GVWR
     
  15. Jan 19, 2025 at 1:01 PM
    #15
    Tundra family

    Tundra family New Member

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  16. Jan 21, 2025 at 12:40 PM
    #16
    Kimosabe

    Kimosabe Slacker

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    I went through this situation when I got a slide-in. Yes you can do small things to increase payload, like box the frame and cut weight but at the end of the day it's not going to change.
    I'd say 90% of Toyotas you see with a camper that is not a FW camper is over the payload. Toyotas aren't the best for hauling, but they're great at other things. I think it's safe to assume that there is some wiggle room in the numbers, but it's up to you on how much you want to push it and if you feel safe doing so. I bought a Northstar camper that was meant for a tacoma so that it was closer to my payload and fit better in my truck. It still started out over the payload wet, and of course then you add food, clothes, and gear it only goes up.

    Having said that; you can increase the truck's ability to handle the weight. That is where airbags and regearing come in handy.
    I would suggest airbags if you are going to be taking the camper in and out of the truck. Sumo springs will limit your suspension travel with the camper out of the truck. Airbags have more adjustability and can be deflated or easily removed if the camper is removed. I had the airbags pretty high PSI while on highway for stability and would decrease the air when going offroad. Regearing will help with power and tire pressure will help with gas mileage.

    If you're interested I'll sell you my firestone airbags that I used for about a year.
     
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