Opinion/Advice on my [future] Alpine HU

Looking for Opinion/Advice on my [future] Alpine HU. Please chime in, whether or not ur an Alpine fan...

Premises of my choice are that:
1. the Toy OEM unit is played [volume control has its own mind, other than that, lacking BT, USB & steeringwheel control; but that cassette player will 'really' b missd]
2. Im an Alpine fan.
3. I want a handheld remote. Prefer most frequent used controls in my rt hand; much safer to me than leaning forward w/rt hand. [minor for most peeps- i guess an 'old-guy' thing]

So, this means going back as far as 2019 models, such as the

$280 iLX-W650 7" double DIN touchscreen digital multimedia receiver with bluetooth, apple carplay and android auto

iLX-W650...there may be a newer unit that retained the IR receiver, but this was 1st to show up on search.
Curious if anyone here has this Alpine [or a newer model w/IR receiver] in their Tundra [doesnt need 2b Gen1] and what, if anything, they are missing that newer models have. I'd especially like to hear about sound quality and touchscreen/UI.
Thanks for your input.
Joe.

 

Having read too many negative reviews of [not only] Alpine standard resolution displays, Ive considered stepping up to the hi-res 7" screen as in the ilx507.
Yes, big jumpfrom ilx650 price, but I dont want to struggle w/visibilty issues fr/day 1.

Or, is my screen visibilty bias [1280x720 v. 800x480?] over influenced by negative reviews naturaly outnumbering the positives?

Small Related negative of nearly all the Alpine [newer] TouchScreen HU's [maybe other makes as well:
Only ON/OFF is ignition keyswitch. Would it be impossible to add a simple in-line switch between one of the power leads of the harness, to minimize batt draw while parked w/ACCESSORY On [ex: need to be able to operate windows but dont want audio ON]

 

interesting observations as i browsed Alpine on BestBuy website today, only bcuz theres one nearby and I wanted to see the actual HU on display.
1. The Q&A for my interest: ilx507, was verbatim, exactly whats shown on the Crutchfield page, .but different font.
2. This particular BB had 3 of rthese Alpine units, but no single display board as they have for Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC and Sony.
3. In my case, the ilx507 listed on BB at regular retail, also has an "openbox" unit advertised at 616.99 vs the Crutchfield "openbox" unit at $617.45.
All somewhat conspicuous; almost thinking one etailer bought out the other.

 

It looks like the current Alpine head units that have an IR panel are the ILX-407 and ILX-507. Crutchfield doesn’t list a remote as box contents with either, but, I was looking at the Alpine RUE-4360 remote and Crutchfield says it is compatible with both head units. Not sure if your 2006 has any steering wheel controls, but Crutchfield notes that with the remote, if you connect any steering wheel control harnesses, the Alpine head units will disable the remote receiver panel.

The other cheapest most current option is the ILX-W670 but I don’t see any indication of an IR panel/remote and Crutchfield doesn’t list it as remote capable if you filter by that.

Between the 407 and 507, both are on sale through Crutchfield right now for $400 and $650 respectively. Beyond that, it looks like the main difference is that the 507 has wireless carplay/android auto whereas the 407 is wired. Both have capacitive screens, with the 407 having a resolution of 800x480 and the 507 being 1280x720.

That said, it’s hard to say how discernible the resolution difference is. Obviously the higher resolution would be nicer.

In either case, and really with any head unit, what I’d do to solve your remote turn on question, is run an add a circuit from your fuse panel from one of the circuits that’s only on when the truck is fully on, to the back of the stereo and connect it to the new head units remote input wire rather than connecting it to the factory radio remote on wire, that way when parked etc. you can use the windows without the radio on too, but honestly i wouldn’t be too worried about the draw from the head unit.

If it were me and I could afford it, I’d probably spring for the 507 with the thought being, you’ll be guaranteed to not have any resolution problems, wireless carplay/android auto is pretty nifty being able to just hop in and go, no pulling out your phone to plug it in, and worst case scenario if your truck dies in a few years, you’ll have the higher end head unit that’ll probably have a longer lifespan specs wise compared to the 407.
At the end of the day I think both would be great head units and you’d be happy with either.

 

thanks @Snert.
All good points and Im still leaning toward the 507. As far as amp draw by the 507 when "OFF", the OM states small ["several hundred milliamperes"...continuos memory circuit?] draw is still an issue. For most peeps that drive more than 1x/week, likely not an issue. Im concerned about parasitic amp draw since I only drive 1x/week or less.
OTOH, any chance the Tundras' ECM doesnt like an 'appliance' outside its ACC/ON/OFF switch? In that case, maybe just as well wired dIrect to ACC/ON/OFF as most installs do.
Here's the Alpine OM page on that:

 

I believe @shifty` has an Alpine in his 2006. He may have valuable insight.

 

Another item that has my attention w/this Alpine:
it [507] apparently can display Engine data, IF the truck can output to a iDatalink product.
Im guessing Gen1Tundras do not have the electronic engine hardware required to output that data. Yes, No or wishful thinking?
A search for 2006 Tundra + iDatalink came up zero...

 

I don't see anything on iDatalink for a 2006 and a Maestro RR. A Maestro RR is what reads the canbus info and feeds it into the new head unit to display. As for wiring, at least in all vehicles I've used add-a-circuits in, I've never had an issue with the vehicle not liking the added circuit. Just have to make sure you orient the add-a-circuit the correct way and then it should have no influence on the original circuit.

It looks like in the driver side fuse panel, some potential candidates would be:

#4 AC INV 15 Power outlets
#8 CIG 15 Cigarette lighter
#22 PWR OUTLET 15 Power outlets

You'd just have to test and find one that only has power when the truck is actually on and running, not just with the key in the accessory position. A small fuse of a few amps or less would suffice for the remote circuit. No need to add a switch. Also, the milliamp draw is referring to if the unit is wired directly to the battery. Using the factory radio's remote turn on wire should also eliminate that draw.

 

Thanks. glad i asked.
Presuming then that Gen1Tundras lack a CANBUS or other interface to collect/transmit engine data?

 

I'm not 100% certain so hopefully a more knowledgeable electronics/gen 1 person can chime in, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say gen 1's don't have it. I think in the U.S. it was required around 2008, so if I had to guess, I'd guess that Toyota didn't implement it until the 2nd gen in 2007 or later.

 

Yes, that sounds about right @Snert.
If G1Tundras have it, more likely will be the last year and by now, would be a common retrofit of iDatalink just for the engine data output/logging. We would have seen forum discussions on installs, HU support, etc by now.
As I recall, Yamaha outboards didnt incorporate it until about 2006-2007 and today its a standard aftermarket mod done on almost every outboard with a modern MFD [multi function display aka Chartplotter/Sonar]. Its so common that its become one of the first checks mechanics look for outboard motor troubleshooting.

 

I though Toyota went to CANBUS architecture in 2005. Can’t verify as my truck is earlier.

 

I think they did on some vehicles. 2nd gen Tacoma started in 2005 and I’m pretty sure they have it, but I’m guessing Toyota knew that in 2007 they were going to roll out a new gen Tundra so rather than add it the last couple models years they just waited until gen 2 started 2007.

 

I just discovered a 2021 thread on FGTs about using a 'OBDII Dongle' to display & log engine data. It requires use of a cellphone via BT.
My guess is that they cant transmit the data to the latest HUs via 'CANBUS', but it looks like an i expensive alternate if you have your last cell to recycle.

 

Looks like everyone knew about the OBDII Dongle- ok, Im not up on game yet...

So back on topic, I called around to see if any local shops have the Alpine ilx507 on a display board. So happens one shop in San Diego did and I was able to do a hands-on check. So, after about 10 min's of punching its front lower edge keys, it operated as I expected stepping around the menus. But 2 things I didnt expect:
1. There is a noticeable amount of lag on key and screen responses. Not intolerable, but it was obvious. Wouldnt expect this on a +$600 HU, but oh well...
2. The Sound Equalizer: its GUI is too small, spread out on a rectangular field thats about 3x longer than tall, a fairly common design, BUT when i made changes to any segment of the sound spectrum, it was difficult, for me, to manipulate as I stood at eye level with it facing me; feels like it would be something you want avoid while driving. If it requires a steady hand and too fine of hand-motor control while standing stationary,...; ie: Alpine should have made the GUI larger and maybe allow selecting fr/ 3, 7, or 13 bands[?] which i think if you're needing that much spectrum control, get on a sofa at home and burn a few to really get the full effects of 13 bands of sound tailoring. Maybe thats just me.
[ I think I already miss my OEM 3 band equalizer [Bass, Mid, Treble: Push button, turn to adjust] I can manipulate at 70mph in the dark.]

After spending 20 min's on Alpine, I took a look on the opposite board with the only other HU close in price AND THAT ALSO has hard keys along its 'lower-bite wing': Kenwood. There were 3 different Kenwood models, but only the Kenwood Excelon DMX908S [presumably the least expensive of the 3] had the 'hard buttons' [which I prefer].
After poking around this Kenwoods lower bite wing of hard buttons for about 3 minutes I realized it was much quicker to respond than the Alpine. If i had to say, it had near immediate responses vs. almost 2 seconds lag on the ilx507. Not intolerable lag, but if you tried the Kenwood Im pretty sure you'd prefer it.
Another aspect that bested the ilx507 is its 22watt amp [vs 18 on the ilx507] although I couldn't hear a big difference in sound quality, via FM broadcast, between the 2 HUs.
A larger notable difference: the Kenwood GUI/menus/sub-menus over the ilx507. The Kenwood Text size and Menu fields are large, almost as if its designed for 'Seniors' [which I am] but I see it as an 'Ease of Manipulation' feature. Some HUs I've seen lately, not just Alpine, but others at the $400+ level: Tiny damn text titles or icon labels- got to wonder if this is considered a good ergonomic standard for anyone making minor sound or station changes at 70mph [yeah, would prefer wheel controls, but i dont have them]. I guess this might be where the 'Halo' type HU design may be best option since it upsizes the screen and moves it closer to operator.
The last notable difference of the Kenwood DMX908S over the Alpine ilx507: 2 year warranty on Kenwood; 1 on Alpine.
Not sure if I'll jump ship to Kenwood, [since this HU is $50 more than the ilx507] but it certainly got my attention in the short, hands on review period I put these HUs thru.

 

While Im online scanning for a HU that cheks all my wants, I stumbled into a company thats not well known in car audio, but in home audio has a rep for above average to excellent quality: 'Nakamichi'. Looked up their mobile audio op's which report to be Japan based design/engineered, but manufactured by Chinese company 'Nimble Holdings'.
Maybe its 'junk' by comparison to the 'Alp, Pionr, Sony, Kwd, JVC universe' as one local retailer told me; yet another well established shop said Nakamichi mobil is aimed at 'offshore' countries, but they work in US as good as the other 5 builders, just Nak not saturating the US market like others.
So whats consensus on Nakamichi mobil audio?
In the US market, obviously not widely advertised, let alone retailed; some outlets beside Amazoff/Fleabay, but not muchelse. The brand certainly has a rep in home audio and studio grade equipment.
This model: NAM5200, reports a 7" Display Resolution of 1024×600, RDS, 50wattX4, includes HHRemote at a sub $250 price [but only 'soft' buttons].

So, any opinions, hands-on, etc..?
published specs [see any Red Flags, other than being dated [2019 build] ?
Operation Voltage: 14.4V (10.5-16V)
* Installation Size: Thickness: 42mm
* Net Weight: 500g
System
Operating system: Android NK 9.0
* DDR: 1GB or 2GB
* Flash: 16GB or 32GB
Radio
FM Frequency Range: 87.5-108.0 MHZ
Bluetooth
Communication System: BT4.0+EDR
* Output: Bluetooth Standard Power 2 Class
* Max Communication Range: 5m
* Frequency Band: 2.4GHz
USB Interface
USB: Readable/Chargeable (5+/-0.25V/1A)
Audio
Max Power: 4x50W
* Front Output (V) : 4V/10K Ohms
* Pre-output impedance: Less than or equal to 600 Ohms
* Speaker impedance: 4-8 Ohms
TFT Screen Item
Display Size: 7-in
* Display Resolution: 1024x600
* Contrast ratio: 500
* Brightness: 500nit
Video
External Video Input system: NTSC/PAL/SECAM
* Exteral Video Input: 1VP-P/75 Ohms
Video Fromat
H264/MP4/AVI/MKV/FLV
Audio Fromat
MP3/APE/AAC/FLAC

 

Lost my base logic centers for a few hours there via my last comments about Nakamichi; theyre a long sight different from 90's Nak...
So, back to weighing options of the 'big-5' .
After more poking at HUs and raking thru more than a dozen UserManuals fr/Alpine, Pioneer, Sony, Kenwood, still not 100 on Alpine.
Seems another hurdle, beside screen-system response speed, is the screen quality.
Since a truck cab is much less roof surface than reg cars/vans, screen brightness and image resolution a major factor [and a standard complaint item].
Unable to see any of the new offerings actually installed in a vehicle, Im weighing differences between Capactive vs Resistive screens, since at my $ level, higher res 7" screens [1200x600?] dont exist.
In the 800x400 arena, User reviews [crutchfield, reddit] seem to all have the same minus: hard to resolve in direct sunlight and anytime w/polarized lenses [which Im always wearing if suns out]. Im resolved at this point that even if I did spend up for a higher-res screen, its likely to still be a polarized lens issue. So Im almost certain I'll end up w/ the cheaper 800x400 res units, but then the Capactive v Resistive question: Capacitive almost all have 'reflective' screen surfaces while Resistives are a 'matte' finish. From what ive seen in Bestbuy [interior overhead lights] or the 'indy-mobil shops, theres reason to prefer Resistives lo-gloss screens, except if you wear winter gloves [ maybe skiing which is maybe 5 days ayear].
On the other hand [pun intended], my other requirement being a remotecontrol, takes care of 90% of my screen usage.
I almost decided the answer to the screen res issue would be to go bigger as in 9"; only issue there beside $ is that many 9" screens are still 800x400 and just a bigger reflective surface.

Aside from system response and screen res, i like the hard button basic function keys, which brings me to just 2 builders: Alpine & Sony [all other wants being equal]. At the sub $500 level, Sony has the quicker screen-system response and thier EQ is easier to work and by some measure, so is the Resistive 'lo-reflective' screen. Since none of the BestB's or 'indy-mobil' shops have these systems pushing built-in amp sound thru a basic boxed 6x9 [they want to sell Ext amps too], its hard to tell sound quality differences. That leads me to conclude in a FGT AC cab w/out ExtAmp power: i'll never know how bad sound quality will be, if at all, so i'll lower mobil audio expectations [at least for an 18yr old truck] and wait til im home to hear better audio quality.
If I were to accept the slower Alpine systems, Id go with an ilx407 or even a notch down to ilxW670.
Other side of street would be the Sony AX4000 or a notch down to the AX3200.

Dont need Wireless AA or CP [i usually keep cell plugged in to stay charged anyway], and I dont have wheel controls but the 4 choices all have a Handheld IR Remote and maybe also cellphone remote apps.
Something Im giving up on these HU's [since its becoming rare per the AA and CP advent] is the 3.5 AuxAudio IN. There are times when i go to standard iTunes or IHeart stations and the cellphone 3.5 headphone output is nearly as good as my own usb playbacks and w/out power hungry BT or Wired AA/CP.

Any comments welcome to keep me from a bad decision or shed more light on my observations. Thx for reading.

 

I installed a Sony 9000ES earlier this year, have been very happy with Sony. That said, tons of people on here and other forums are happy with Alpine, Kenwood, Pioneer etc. As for screens, from my understanding, capacitive are the "nicer" of the two options. Better sensitivity, clarity, and typically better in sunlight due to resistive screens having extra layers of resistive material. A plus for Alpine is the ability to easily integrate their power packs for extra juice. A plus for Sony is that although their screens on the lower models are resistive, they have "anti-glare" for what it's worth. I know Sony makes a plethora of electronics including phones, laptops etc., not sure whose screens they use If I were to throw my hat in the ring, I guess I'd give a slight edge to Sony unless there's a particular feature you want that they lack. For example, a front camera input. If you order from somewhere like Crutchfield, you can always install it, test it for a month, and send it back if you hate it. Last time I returned something they had a 60 day return policy and it was super easy to chat with them and get the return info. Would have to double check the fine print to make sure that's still the case but they've always had great customer support so I'd assume it is.