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One thing after another

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Moonminer, Dec 30, 2024.

  1. Jan 17, 2025 at 4:52 AM
    #121
    BlackNBlu

    BlackNBlu Justa Member

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  2. Jan 17, 2025 at 11:08 AM
    #122
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Blessed 2 B above Ground

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    from page 1....

    Definitely wouldn't be surprised if at some point throughout this cluster fudge that the newly installed alternator or the installation of same was part of the issue.

    The ECU needs good 12vdc to feed the 5vdc regulator circuits inside the ECU, in turn supplying stable 5vdc to the TPS and many other circuits. The P0120(“Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor 'A' Circuit.”) you've mentioned way back on 1st page is saying it is detecting abnormal voltage readings from TPS or APPS. Either one not receiving steady voltage would cause the ECU to go bonkers.
     
  3. Jan 17, 2025 at 9:49 PM
    #123
    Moonminer

    Moonminer [OP] New Member

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    Well I figured it out! It was the ECU. I will be sending my ECU in to SIA Electronics in Tilden Illinois. I used my buddies ECU and the truck purred like a kitten again. Besides the 6.3vdc coming from the bad alternator I’m all good! Luckily my truck didn’t brick his truck. He drove it home and everything is fine. Now I just need to get some advice on a HO alternator, JS or mechmen, or another.

    I WOULD LIKE TO SAY HOW VERY MUCH APPRECIATED ALL YOUR HELP HAS BEEN. THE ENCOURAGEMENT, OUT OF THE BOX THINKING HAS BEEN GREAT. ITS NOT EASY BEING DEAF AND DYSLEXIC BUT YOU ALL HAVE MADE ME FEEL UNJUDGED, AND BETTER YET MADE ME FORGET ABOUT MY DISABILITIES. IT GOES A LONG WAY WHEN ITS A STRANGER AND NOT FAMILY! THANK YOU ALL AGAIN!
     
  4. Jan 18, 2025 at 5:19 AM
    #124
    BroHon

    BroHon Everything's clock is ticking

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    Weight reduction, mostly rust.


    Good job sticking with it! :fistbump:
    I felt your pain through all this. I spent 7-8 months on mine (did not have this forum's help) before I last ditch effort bought a junkyard ECM. And like you, my problem disappearedo_O. Post some pictures so we all can see what your rig looks like!
    Congrats :thumbsup:
     
    G_unit3000, FrenchToasty and w666 like this.
  5. Jan 18, 2025 at 7:55 AM
    #125
    bfunke

    bfunke Tundra Curmudgeon

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    Good to hear OP. The higher output alternators used in the later FGTs and in the Sequoias have a different connector than our 2000 Tundras. Not to worry as you can purchase the connector and repin your wires into it. Do not cut any wires. Use a safety pin or depinning tool. There are several threads about this.
     
  6. Jan 18, 2025 at 2:27 PM
    #126
    Moonminer

    Moonminer [OP] New Member

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    Okay why does my truck start goes into reverse and functions fine ( like I can drive around the block in reverse and have good throttle response). Goes into neutral and idles fine, soon as I go into drive in dies? If I start in neutral tap the accelerator a few times and then put it in drive it will idle, but soon as I take my foot off the brake and push the pedal it dies. I check my code reader and I get no codes. It is 12 degrees here but I’ve driven in a lot colder temps and the truck ran and operated fine!!
    WHAT THE HELL!!!!!
     
  7. Jan 18, 2025 at 2:50 PM
    #127
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy Working remotely from the local pub

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    Any visible damage to the ECU?
     
  8. Jan 18, 2025 at 3:18 PM
    #128
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Blessed 2 B above Ground

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    Once wx permits, mind posting a pic of as many of those items below that your scan tool has with Eng at operating temp in park with minimal load....no heater, radio/amp etc.

    Also, if you've had time and weather permitting, do you feel you got the TPS properly adjusted and do you still have stable voltage ?

    2000 Tundra AC.jpg
     
  9. Jan 18, 2025 at 4:55 PM
    #129
    Moonminer

    Moonminer [OP] New Member

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    Just dust on the ECU but nothing burnt or broken

    I will get at it tomorrow and I will get those pictures for you to see.
     
  10. Jan 18, 2025 at 5:06 PM
    #130
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy Working remotely from the local pub

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    Just give it a once over for cracked solder joints or damaged connector pins.
     
  11. Jan 18, 2025 at 5:45 PM
    #131
    BroHon

    BroHon Everything's clock is ticking

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    OP already determined it was the ECM by using a working unit from a friends truck.
    My question is what ECM are you using now?? Did you get a new one already?
     
  12. Jan 18, 2025 at 9:52 PM
    #132
    Moonminer

    Moonminer [OP] New Member

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    No it was my friends. I sent mine to a place where the fix ecm’s.
     
  13. Jan 20, 2025 at 1:59 PM
    #133
    Moonminer

    Moonminer [OP] New Member

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    Now my truck idles fine, goes into reverse and actually can drive in it, goes into neutral. Soon as you put the truck it dies! I mean it doesn’t chug, lurch, or rattle it just dies. Sometimes if you are slow enough it will go into drive and idle but soon as you take your foot off the brake it dies? I’m confused now

    IMG_2208.jpg
    IMG_2209.jpg
    IMG_2210.jpg
    IMG_2211.jpg

    IF YOU ARE IN PARK HIT THE GAS MY CODE READER WILL READ THIS

    IMG_2213.jpg
     
  14. Jan 20, 2025 at 2:05 PM
    #134
    shifty`

    shifty` We skipped the light fandango

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    In the pics, it's still in open loop. ("OL")

    The symptoms you describe is something we often see when the truck is in relearn, i.e. when battery cable was off 10-15 mins, especially after doing things like cleaning the throttle body.

    I'd leave sitting in idle for a period, until it hits closed loop. ("CL")

    But if your ECU part number doesn't match exactly with your friends, I wouldn't drive around with it.
     
    Moonminer[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  15. Jan 20, 2025 at 2:48 PM
    #135
    Moonminer

    Moonminer [OP] New Member

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    Would my alternator have a play in the engine dying? Like I turn off all the accessories like heater, radio, amps, lights etc. just don’t know if by putting the truck in drive it demands more output than the alternator can give so it just quits?
    And to let it idle for a period of time are we like talking 30 to 40 minutes or more or less?
     
  16. Jan 20, 2025 at 3:50 PM
    #136
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    It shouldn't read "OL-Drive" or open loop while driving if your in park. Unless you had already put it in gear and back into park when you took that pic.
     
  17. Jan 20, 2025 at 5:06 PM
    #137
    BroHon

    BroHon Everything's clock is ticking

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    15 minutes the truck should be up to operating temp 185-195 period. Both fuel systems 1 and 2 are staying in OL/open loop, never progressing to closed loop.
    I would figure out why your not going into closed loop (not reaching operating temp) before trying to diag anything else. Thermostat stuck open/ or missing?
    Temp sensor bad(green one that sends data to ECM), (grey one is sender to your cluster gage).
    If your ECM isn't listening to all the sensors, and waiting to go into closed loop/(engine to reach operating temp), adjusting/diagnosing anything is going to be tough....
     
    BubbaW and FrenchToasty like this.
  18. Jan 20, 2025 at 8:20 PM
    #138
    Moonminer

    Moonminer [OP] New Member

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    Will the bad temp sensor cause the truck to operate fine in reverse, neutral? But die when put in drive or idle in drive but die when you release the brake?
     
  19. Jan 21, 2025 at 5:48 AM
    #139
    BroHon

    BroHon Everything's clock is ticking

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    Highly doubt it, but I would address problems you can identify first. Like ones you have codes for, or can clearly see from your scanner. And even the ones you have codes for I would wait until you ECM can go into closed loop.
    But that's just me, anyone chime in and correct me :D
     
  20. Jan 21, 2025 at 7:20 AM
    #140
    Moonminer

    Moonminer [OP] New Member

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    That’s the problem I’m not throwing any codes
     
  21. Jan 21, 2025 at 8:00 AM
    #141
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    This problem didn’t exist before all of your recent work as you reported it ran nice and smooth. Something you did recently is the problem most likely. None of us were there to see and aren’t there to inspect. You’ll really have to go back over all of your work and find the smoking gun. I’m also still not sure how your original intake manifold was cracked, but wasn’t causing any issues, or even how you crack the intake manifold to start with.
     
    BroHon likes this.
  22. Jan 21, 2025 at 11:06 AM
    #142
    Moonminer

    Moonminer [OP] New Member

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    I’ve checked everything! Connectors, wires, hoses, everything. I am going to let this truck idle for a hour to see if that will help but the only thing that has changed is when I plugged the power steering valve back up right.
     
  23. Jan 21, 2025 at 1:52 PM
    #143
    BroHon

    BroHon Everything's clock is ticking

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    Get it to fully warm up 185-195, and go into CL/ClosedLoop
    Then figure out what's killing it
    Does it stop fuel?
    Does it stop spark?
    Does it stop air?
    Just spitballin
     
  24. Jan 22, 2025 at 10:24 AM
    #144
    Moonminer

    Moonminer [OP] New Member

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    Got to operating temp. I can cycle through reverse and neutral just fine, but after it goes into drive it’s dead.
    NOW AFTER CYCLING THROUGH REVERSE, NEUTRAL, AND DRIVE A COUPLE TIMES IT WILL NOT START IN PARK OR NEUTRAL? It almost acts like a dead battery but it has 12.72? No codes thrown.
     
  25. Jan 22, 2025 at 10:28 AM
    #145
    shifty`

    shifty` We skipped the light fandango

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    Sounds strangely like you have a power/cabling issue. You sure the ground and power terminals and their wires are OK and not shorting anywhere?
     
  26. Jan 22, 2025 at 10:39 AM
    #146
    Moonminer

    Moonminer [OP] New Member

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    I am sure of it, I mean I have checked over and over again. I have also noticed that when you open the truck door the door chime and radio will some how stop and restart but on the radio it doesn’t loose memory?
    I have tried to track down bad ignition wires or bad fuses but nothing is visible or I’m not able to wiggle wires or isolate the problem or recreate the problem. It doesn’t do it all the time but usually first few time you open the door. I bought an alternator to replace my old one, it’s a little stronger than my old 100amp one. Battery connections are tight and all the grounds are good. The only thing I thought it could be was when I replaced the 120amp fuse and had to take the fuse block out a little to remove the two bolts on either side so I could remove the fuse block?
     
  27. Jan 22, 2025 at 10:47 AM
    #147
    shifty`

    shifty` We skipped the light fandango

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    I mean, with the variety of symptoms you're seeing, the circuits impacted, and this new door chime symptom, I'm sitting here wondering if you don't have some kind of problem with the engine bay fusebox, or even the in-dash fusebox (pics & pics & pics of others who had water leaking into it).

    But the door chime may just be that the door plunger is failing, too.
     
    PNW15 likes this.
  28. Jan 22, 2025 at 10:55 AM
    #148
    Moonminer

    Moonminer [OP] New Member

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    There is no corrosion in the cabin fuse box or in the engine bay fuse box? What fuses/relays in the engine fuse panel that might control my issues?
     
  29. Jan 22, 2025 at 11:10 AM
    #149
    shifty`

    shifty` We skipped the light fandango

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  30. Jan 22, 2025 at 11:30 AM
    #150
    Moonminer

    Moonminer [OP] New Member

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    Fuses are fine. No melted wires or corrosion on fuses. No loose wires
     

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