Oil questions, and any downside to 0W30 oil in Gen1 Tundra

No point. No economic incentive. For the price, might as well use full synthetic.

 

The first Blackstone sample I sent was from a cheap synthetic blend. The 2nd one I sent was Mobile full synthetic. There was less metal content in the 2nd sample.

 

I know, that's already been pointed out. Haha. But I started doing it years ago, when their was bigger cost difference and never really thought about it again until now. You bastards are making me second guess my routines...

 

I'm a data snob. So for that to be a fair comparison you would need to be comparing more equivalent quality oils. Also appears there is 900 more miles on the test with the cheaper syn blend. So quality and miles could be the reason for the worse results, not the blend part... Or maybe not. But I don't think that is an entirely fair comparison.

No debate, synthetics are better. Cost has come down quite a bit too. More then I realized.

But for my driving style and conditions I'm confident full syn would provide negligible benefits.

How much is a blackstone test? I have an oil change coming up, might consider a test just for the hell of it.

Didn't mean to thread jack, this started off about lower weight oils- not syn vs conventional.

 

Oil analysis has real value only if it's done every change. It's not inexpensive, and that's why I will not make oil analysis a practice. I've never done engine oil analysis before, and never had any problems that oil analysis would have prevented. I'll do it once now to learn if there is any unusual fuel or blow-by that's making mine black and stinky in 2K miles.

When oil analysis is done every change (using the SAME brand/vis oil), then you can see and read the trends in different metals and minerals. When you change to another brand/vis oil, you can only conclude there "really is a difference" in motor oil performance if the trends are clearly different several tests post-changeover. It takes a lot of data to make a decision scientifically, and that's why these discussions are filled with un-enlightened opinions and regurgitated marketing bull****.

Personally, I wouldn't depend too much on two oil analysis tests done nearly 30K apart having ANYTHING to say regards "quality" of the oil, i.e. blend vs synthetic, etc. @FirstGenVol is clearly "spot-checking" for head gasket leakage into his oil. There are many reasons for metals and minerals changing drastically in an engine and showing up in the oil analysis. That's typically why oil analysis is done, it's not to determine "quality" of the motor oil.

BUT, having said that, Blackstone techs see a LOT of data, and they could have a lot to say about the "best" motor oil. You won't get them to admit they have an opinion.

IMO, nothing can be read into the "quality" of two motor oils from only two oil analyses. There are too many other variables.

 

My point as well that their are lots of variables and that data can't be compared fairly.

I'm not looking to change anyone's mind, just water cooler BS talk. Fun to share opinions as well as hear others. I'm always opened to enlightenment.

I stand by my opinion that regular changes with any quality oil is good enough for the vast majority. Maybe the guy who said he tows boat through desert at 110+ ambient really sees benefit of full synthetic. I'm confident I will not under my conditions. As others have pointed out, if full syn is not much more expensive then why not, that's a valid point as well.

I've said my piece. Going to go find a tire thread to debate KO2s. Haha.

 

Before you go, watch this video. It's the best logical, scientific explanation I've seen of WHY synthetic motor oil is better. (Forget that pouring cold oil down roofing tin to time how slow it goes.)

But, if you're a conspiracist, please note the video is sponsored by Mobil1. If you decide it's a conspiracy, then you'll have to find "holes" in the science:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lo7rrex0IsE

 

I agree with your points. That said, I see no reason to buy a synthetic blend. Either go conventional or go full synthetic. An article I read years ago said there was no requirement for blends to have "x" amount of synthetic. So it could be 90% conventional and you're still paying extra. I think conventional oil is still fine so long as you change the oil regularly.

@JohnLakeman Agreed with you as well. But I wouldn't be surprised if the Mobile 1 full synthetic is offering more protection than the cheap blend I was using before. Of course we wouldn't know that from this one sample alone.

 

I've got nearly 40k running 0w-20 and can tell you that mine at 205k currently does not consume enough oil over a 10k oil change to be noticeable on the dipstick.

Realistically I'm guessing you could buy the cheapest oil you could find in whatever weight you happen to pick up and as long as it's changed regularly still be fine. https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/ has many examples of folks bringing in vehicles with 15k+ on oil and still running. Some admittedly not well but still running nonetheless.

 

I'm not arguing the blend is better, as I previously pointed out that started when I won a case of free full syn and used 2 qts per change along with a 5qt jug of conventional gtx. In a sense making my own blend. That lasted a few years. Once the free stuff ran out I just continued with the practice. Thought is if full syn is better then conventional then my blend is also somewhat better. Right? Definitely not hurting.

Also I would agree buying blend is no good as it's mostly conventional. With my blend I'm positive it's 29% synthetic. Nearly a third, old truck designed for con, seems like a reasonable improvement to me.

I did some shopping. I only buy castrol (20 year habit, not changing). I buy my oil at home depot. One 5qt jug and 2 qts. I don't want open containers of oil laying around so I'll stick with buying what I need only. Also nice to not have to measure. I dump in all 7 and I'm good (I still check). So sticking with these habits:

Castrol gtx- $28.91
Castrol edge full syn - $39.93 ($11 more)
BMC02 super special performance blend - $34.93 ($6 more then con, $5 less then syn).

So with those numbers, yeah it makes more sense to go full synthetic. I don't have a very good argument to make to save $5.

Maybe I'll switch to a jug of syn and 2 qts of conventional. You know to ease me into it. Not easy to change old habits!

Maybe I'll just keep doing what I've been doing and my ocd will be happy with my decision. Haha

 

Mobil1 Synthetic is so cheap at least for the time being at ~$22 gallon. High Mileage Formula!

Keep to the Spec 5w-30 is best and it NEVER HURTS to change early and often. Why why why extend your oil changes when you can do it early and often?!?

 

Good to hear your results about 0w20 (what this thread was supposed to be about).

My mother in law's 07 camry tended to burn a bit of oil. I don't have hard proof as it wasn't my car, but it seemed to burn less when running 5w30. Obviously that's not really surprising. So I think if you have an worn out engine, or one that just has a tendency to burn oil, then running lighter oils (especially if it's not called for) is not a good idea.

 

My 16 camry calls for full syn and one year/10k intervals. Its hard to go that long, but that's what they call for... Haven't had it long, as it ages I'll shorten that interval since I do the maintenance myself.

I like the 6 month interval on our trucks. Do it consistently and your oil choice is less important. I think.

 

I don't really like this argument. If an engineer was the only person involved I would agree with you. There are a lot of people involved and they all have different priorities. The department of "you need to get better fuel economy" might argue for a different oil than the department of "you need to not smell bad" How much pull does the department of "keep it running" have?

 

Can I use straight 30 in my truck?

 

Above freezing? Probably wouldn't hurt.

 

5W-40 Shell Rotella T6 with OEM filter.

I use T6 on everything I've had except for the 911. The purpose of use is due to it's "extreme temperature" properties. I live in the desert. Most of my cars are turbo. T6 is marketed as diesel engine oil.

 

T6 is great oil. Pretty much anything from Rotella is solid. I’ve run their products in almost everything I’ve owned; cars and motorcycles. They have a great additive package and it’s very cost effective. All of my motorcycles have lived on Rotella, and not one has missed a beat. 15W-40 in the big Vtwin’s and 5w40 in the high revving inline 4’s. I was thrilled when they released their ‘gas truck’ line and that is currently what’s in my Tundra now. When my other truck is due (0W-20), I’ll be switching it to Rotella.

Independent test against Mobil 1, Rotella wins.
https://youtu.be/hTyrc1zjKEA

 

Watched that, knew that result was going to happen.

I also run T6 in my Honda 450R's. That stuff is like hot sauce. Pour it on everything.

 

. . . . I know this is kind of off-the topic of '0W/30' . . . but thought I'd just throw this out there since it's 'oil-related' .
On my old 2003 AC V6 I decided to try the Lucas Oil 'Synthetic Oil Stabilizer'. I was towing a boat through the Mojave Desert mid-summer fairly frequently and was looking for a little extra protection in the extreme heat. You're supposed to replace 1 quart of oil with 1 quart of stabilizer, so I did. First thing I noticed was the oil pressure jumped up pretty significantly on the gauge. I was used to seeing where the pressure was day-to-day and under various conditions, like cold start up, warm idle, highway, and around town. This stuff made the pressure read quite a bit higher. After some miles miles had passed it settled down to a pretty normal range, but it never sat quite well with me. I'd never seen an oil change do that. So I decided to change the oil early . . . (I probably put a couple thousand miles on it). When I dumped the oil in a wide drain pan, there was a very unusual 'separation' and color difference of the oil, (the best way I can describe it) . . . it's almost like the stuff didn't mix well with the 5W/30 Synthetic oil I used. It looked 'Streaky' for lack of a better description. I remember when I put the stuff in, I didn't add it all at once, I poured a little, then poured oil, then some more stabilizer, then more oi etc.l, till I was at the right amount.

The truck only had 150K miles on it, so it probably didn't need the damn stabilizer in the first place. But I was surprised at how much of a change it made in the pressure reading. I'm not saying the stuff is bad, I'm sure it has it's place, (probably high mileage motors with some ring/piston wear etc.) but unless you're burning or losing oil, I'd recommend staying away from it.

 

Haven't used this stuff for a long time, but if I recall it was really thick? That correct? Thick oil would make oil pressure increase. Odd that it didn't mix...

 

They call it ‘motor honey’ for a reason.

 

Yeah . . . I'd say between syrup & honey. LOL.

 

Exactly. I only have 2,000 something and I'm driving 14 hours next week to colorado and im probably just gonna change it now.

 

I know this is beat to death but you're throwing money away changing synthetic oil at 3k or less.

If anything throw a new filter on and top it up.

Me I'd just run it until you get back.

 

Interesting find I wanted to share. Apparently castrol gtx ("conventional") that I've always used is now a synthetic blend (see pic). No idea when that change occured. I always grab the jug and never looked that close. So that + My 2 qts of full synthetic, means I'm now somewhere north of 30% synthetic.

Also checking my dipstick, I'm 3 weeks away from my 6 month oil change (3600 miles) and it is still oil colored, very clean. Closer to new oil color then black.

I've already admitted that full syn is worth the $5, and will probably go that route eventually, now that I've actually priced it out. Just really surprised gtx is now a blend. Are other brands going to "blends" as their standard as well?

 

For sure.