Oil in Intake Manifold, Torque Specs, Next Things to Address...

Hey Y'all,

Replacing the starter in my truck and accompanying intake manifold seals. I was surprised that there was oil in the intake manifold... Is that normal? I am an electrician by trade and handy with tools so I do my own work on the truck because I enjoy it and can't afford paying someone else so forgive my ignorance. Another item I noted was a nice buildup of crud around the inside of where the intake openings are in the head.

Going to put everything back together today, does anyone know where I could find torque specs for the intake manifold bolts? I have always used Ye Olde "Feels 'Bout Right" but as I mature in life I am developing a preference for what the manufacturer recommends.

Short list of things replaced thus far:
-Timing Belt/Water Pump (Twice)
-Alternator
-Coil Packs
-LBJ (Paid someone once then replaced crappy aftermarket with OEM myself)
-Tie Rod Ends
-Front Shocks
-Radiator (Was Leaking)
-Paid someone to rebuild brakes... probably need to redo with OEM
-Flushed Coolant System, Changed Transmission Fluid, Flushed Power Steering Fluid

Concerns/Observed issues:
-Torn boots on front Axles
-Alignment won't hold (new bushings for LCA?)
-Purchased Fuel pump for just in case (Nearing 400k miles)
-Lots of fluid around bottom of transfer case, oil pan, and transmission. Heads and covers look fine.
-Seeming rust in spark plugs/coils but no fluids
-Never opened the heads or done compression test

Just looking for some advice on what to tackle next, be aware of, etc. This is my daily and can't afford a new vehicle for the time being so would rather not bench it for extended periods of time. Any input is helpful!

 

Yes, in the field service manual. There is a link to it in the "so you want to buy a tundra" sticky thread. Most if not all of your questions can be answered in the first 2 posts of that sticky thread.

 

I've found oil in the intake manifold in several vehicles I've owned. I've also seen people on here with the earlier style engine you have who made (IMO) silly choice to separate the two halves of their intake manifold and found oil in there too.

Why is it normal, you may ask? Three letters: PCV

You have hoses coming off the top of your valve covers. Note where they connect to, and understand oil vapors in the to end will make their way thru those tubes and back to the intake, as designed.

 

Yeah... First time dismantling all of this but was not expecting oil. Would you have any concerns about the buildup along the inside of the intake on the head? I'll try and get a pic shortly.

 

Good information there and read through most of it (skipped audio lol). Wondering about the rust on the spark plugs and some of the oil leak stuff. Only one corner of the head covers has a leak and on the underside it seems to be more than the grime from that one location would suggest. Going to double check the torque on that now though

 

PCV valve. It's the first and cheapest thing to check, and with that many miles it might be gummed up.

 

I just did my starter at 250k+ and noticed some black oily buildup in the intake runners and ports. I’ve changed my PCV valve every 2-3 yrs and have changed the hoses. Used throttle body cleaner and a rag to wipe most of it of but didn’t get too anal. Also sprayed a lot into the intake and drained it wiped it until it looked pretty clean. I did get anal about cleaning the throttle body. Put it back together and runs fine but it also did before I started on this journey.

 

If you’re concerned, you could add a catch can to your ventilation hoses.

 

Not that concerned... Just would not have expected oil in the air intake manifold... lol

 

Nope.

 

It's impressive to have 400k on it! I wouldn't worry too much about a little oil in the intake though. Do what you have been doing.

 

Not gonna lie... Torque specs I saw in the service manual are 13Ft-lbs in for the manifold... can someone else check me cause that did not feel very tight at all

 

And also, PCV/hose/surrounding area looks nasty so I am assuming something there needs replacing as well

 

Would need pictures to advice you on that one. You should probably be proactively replacing your PCV valve every 50k miles or 10 years, honestly. The hoses, by now, are certainly cracked as well. I know my 2006 hoses were cracked at the ends, and several other members have reported the same for theirs. Part# are easy enough to lookup using the EPC with your VIN (more info on "how"), I assume you have the V8, because you didn't specify in your truck details (inside your user profile) if you're V6 or V8. After you plug in your VIN, the part numbers will be found under section "Engine, Fuel System & Tools", inside subsection "Ventilation Hose". You'll want to open the diagram image, and click on each of these two numbers to fetch the part number.

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Started and sounds good which is what matters for today. I will get that PCV and get it swapped soon. I did not see a nut or anything up top and is spins freely... Is there threading in the head or a nut inside the head cover?

 

Intake torque is 13 ft-lbs. Be advised the ventilation hose marked 12262 is no longer available for early non-VVT 4.7s. The nipple on the valve cover is smaller on the early trucks like yours. I bought the hose for the 2005-2006 trucks and adapted it by put a short section of hose over the nipple and them pressing the new hose over that - worked perfectly. Also older trucks have a push in PCV and a rubber grommet in the valve cover. The 2005-2006 trucks have a screw in PCV.