Oil filter won't screw back on.

I own a happy 2003 Tundra and have been changing the oil yearly since I bought it new. Last oil change, my neighbor helped jam on the filter so it could be screwed on the rest of the way. I want to replace the connection when I change the oil next month. Local dealer parts sent me to a oil filter cooler valve which does not look right. Anyone have same issue?
Here is the link for the valve so you can see pix:

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem...year=2003&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()

 

I don't recognize the part, but it shows that it fits my 2003 V8 AC 4wd.

 

That looks like the internal screw-on portion.

The cooler itself has both coolant and oil lines passing to/thru it. Without seeing what was damaged, it's tough to advise you on exactly what to buy. You don't want to see what the entire housing costs, and I believe it's no longer available because @Tundra2 had to replace his some time ago because the former owner of his truck made the dumbshit mistake of mixing coolant colors, and using the wrong coolant (should be red/pink coolant only for our trucks), and the red/yellow coolant mixing created a mustard sludge throughout the filter cooler/housing.

 

The relief valve you pictured is a part frequently replaced when we change out the figure 8 oil gasket. I wouldn’t replace the figure 8 unless it’s leaking. You will however have to replace The o-ring under the cooler when you remove the relief valve.

 

Thanks, but it's not the relief valve; the picture was recommended to look at by a parts rep at a local Toyota dealership but he did not understand what I was talking about. The oil filter won't screw on because the threads are too worn on the part that the filter screws on to. I'm hoping to only replace it alone and not everything attached to it unless I have to. And I hope I don't have to search for a new, no longer available housing. All help appreciated so I won't have to take it in for someone else to do for more $. Thanks again!

 

Like I said, I'm pretty sure the stubby end of that part you linked is the stub the filter screws onto, and you'll just need to remove the filter, use the nut pictured on the part to unthread the thing, then thread the new shaft in.

I could be mistaken. I just don't think I am.

Look at the pic of your part, and look at the filter housing, in the light of what I just wrote. Make sense? See what looks like a 17mm edge there?

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Oh, and if only for shits and giggles, this is the "figure 8" formed gasket people are talking about that tends to eventually leak on the housing:

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Hey Shifty! A picture is worth a thousand! Yes, I can see it now, first time I could see the housing clearly. And a 17mm looks like the thing, and have a 19 handy too just in case. After I confirm with the overpriced repair shop I'll unscrew the filter. You also solved my figure 8 curiosity. All the very best, I'll let you know what happens.